"Red Neck" .049 elec. starter

roddie Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:39 pm

I made this 20+ years ago from a Mabuchi 540 stock "can" motor... about 6 ft. of 18 ga. lamp cord, banana plugs, a 1 gal. plastic jug "cap", another sm. plastic "cap" for a 3/4" dia. pole, 1" length of automotive rubber fuel tubing (1/4"/5/16" i.d.), thin aluminum sheet (rolled into a tube), some hose clamps and a sm. SPST "momentary" push-switch. Aside from the switch; you probably have all these parts in your shop. The switch is avail. at most home centers or "Radio Shack" for $2-3 dollars.

It will work on the Cox aluminum spinners.

My elec. motor had a sm. "pressed-on" gear... If yours doesn't; you could substitute a 1/8" wheel collar, if you have a "flat" on your motor shaft. If not... "file"/"grind" one, for the wheel collars' set-screw.

The photo only shows the outside... but what's inside is "just the wires". Connect 2 short wires from the motor to the switch, and another set; out through a drilled hole in the "jug cap". (tie a "stress-relief" knot in the wire; inside the tube) Drill a hole in the aluminum sheet for mounting the switch; Form a tube around the motor and jug cap... and secure with appropriate hose clamps. Secure the short length of automotive/rubber fuel line to the whl. collar on the elec. motor shaft; with a sm. hose clamp or... "roughen-up" the wheel collar with coarse sandpaper, and glue the hose on with "Shoe-Goo" or something that will hold it from slipping.

I plug the banana clips into my power-panel's 12v. "fuel-pump" terminals... which has a "reversing polarity" switch (in/out) so; you don't need to worry about +/- when wiring. (or if using a L/H prop. on a "reed valve" engine...)

The small 3/4"plastic cap is not necessary; but is a safety that encloses the switch... to keep it from inadvertently being actuated when the starter is not actually being used.

Notes: BEFORE engaging the prop with "any" elec. starter; always place a few drops of light oil between the prop-driver and case; "working it in" with a few "flips" to distribute the oil to prevent friction/wear. Use "GENTLE pressure when engaging the prop with the starter... If you feel "any" resistance; the engine "could be" flooded. Further "forcing" under this condition will likely snap the crankshaft/crank-pin or break the connecting rod. "Clear the flood" before proceeding. Short/quick "bursts"... is all it should take to start the engine.

"Red Neck" .049 elec. starter Starte10

**RknRusty** Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:55 pm

I've been wanting to make one for a while now. I have some RC car motors that look pretty strong. I don't remember what voltage and current they use, but I was thinking of using a D cell flashlight case. I have a little B&D drill in the shop, but I doubt if it turns fast enough. I would crack it open and use a higher voltage battery, but it's actually my wife's drill and she would drill me if I modified it.

roddie Tue Sep 10, 2013 10:55 pm

RknRusty wrote:I've been wanting to make one for a while now. I have some RC car motors that look pretty strong. I don't remember what voltage and current they use, but I was thinking of using a D cell flashlight case. I have a little B&D drill in the shop, but I doubt if it turns fast enough. I would crack it open and use a higher voltage battery, but it's actually my wife's drill and she would drill me if I modified it.

Don't do it Rusty!!! The "wife's tools" are SACRED... she knows where they are... and expects them to be there when she goes looking for them!!! Tear apart her drill... and you may not "eat" (good food...) for days...

I wouldn't be too concerned with the motors "voltage" if it's of the "car motor" (540) size... because you'll only be giving it "short pulses"... as opposed to running it "continuously". The motor "tube" could also be made from a pc. of 1-1/4" i.d. PVC pipe, with a saw-cut; the length of the motor... to "spread it open" or even a heavy cardboard tube (sealed afterward with paint) The flashlight case might work also. Mine was built around using a power-panel... (hardwired; as opposed to "wireless") As long as I have a good strong 12v. battery; everything works... my glow-driver, starter... etc. You "could" build a 7.2v. nicd powered one... but it's just one more thing you have to keep "charged"...

SuperDave Tue Sep 17, 2013 10:02 am

REAL MEN start 1/2A's with their "social fingers". - From SD's "Timeless Wisdom's"

Laughing

(Either one will do)

SD

roddie Tue Sep 17, 2013 11:39 am

SuperDave wrote:REAL MEN start 1/2A's with their "social fingers". - From SD's "Timeless Wisdom's"

(Either one will do)

SD

You're so right SuperDave! Here's an example;... When I was a kid, I participated in a "weekly" afterschool "Model Building" activity, hosted by one of the Science Teachers (the late Mr. Ed Wilk). There was an "open house" one night for the parents to attend. My Dad came with me. Someone had brought in an old beat-up "stunter" with a "Stallion" .35 on it. Everyone had their turn flipping and flipping..... and flipping. The engine wouldn't even pop. My Dad asked if he could give it a try. He closed the needle... cleared the flood, re-primed, opened the needle 3-4 turns... flipped it once... and it roared to life! After running strong for about 15 seconds (which seemed like an eternity...) he pinched the fuel line to stop the engine from running, because the model was on a bench in the classroom! Everyone cheered... and my Dad smiled! My Dad was a "real man" that night!

SuperDave Tue Sep 17, 2013 12:47 pm

Roddie:

Beside the sting of nitro fuel on your cut fingers is a stimulant to be savored! Laughing

SD

roddie Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:39 pm

SuperDave wrote:Roddie:

Beside the sting of nitro fuel on your cut fingers is a stimulant to be savored!

SD

ah yes SuperDave... I am familiar with "the sting"... There's nothing like being bitten by a "Fox .35" swinging a 10" prop... An elec. starter is definitely a "lazy man's" tool for starting model airplane engines... It used to be; years ago... you couldn't use them in AMA contest events. I don't know about now... The rules may have changed over the years... but a "pilot/mechanic" was required to start the engine "manually"... by flipping the prop. "C/L Combat" and "C/L Speed" come to mind.

**RknRusty** Sat Jun 06, 2015 6:44 pm

roddie wrote:
SuperDave wrote:Roddie:

Beside the sting of nitro fuel on your cut fingers is a stimulant to be savored!

SD
ah yes SuperDave... I am familiar with "the sting"... There's nothing like being bitten by a "Fox .35" swinging a 10" prop... An elec. starter is definitely a "lazy man's" tool for starting model airplane engines... It used to be; years ago... you couldn't use them in AMA contest events. I don't know about now... The rules may have changed over the years... but a "pilot/mechanic" was required to start the engine "manually"... by flipping the prop. "C/L Combat" and "C/L Speed" come to mind.

Bump!
Okay, so I took a detour to get here, and can't pick on SuperDave anymore, that's too bad. But... there are way too many arthritic grayhairs at the top, middle and bottom of this sport now for the AMA to be banning electric starters. I have to use one on on my Fox 35, my OS FX 46, and my 40fp. I still chicken stick the 25, 35 fp, and Norvels and Coxes that don't have a spring.
"Red Neck" .049 elec. starter Old

getback Sun Jun 07, 2015 9:08 am

Here chic chic chic sticky Yes that McCoy 19 I had been running in got a over prime and popped the wooden prop on the rubber coated stick and dented my damn prop !!! Glad it wasn't my old finger What?

roddie Sun Jun 07, 2015 10:16 am

getback wrote:Here chic chic chic sticky Yes that McCoy 19 I had been running in got a over prime and popped the wooden prop on the rubber coated stick and dented my damn prop !!! Glad it wasn't my old finger

"Here chic chic chic sticky..." LMAO.... That provided some good Sunday morning humor for me!

706jim Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:32 am

I've had one of these for several years. I figure it cranks an engine at 10000rpm or so. No need to prime the Pee Wee when using this guy!

**RknRusty** Sun Jun 07, 2015 1:06 pm

706jim wrote:I've had one of these for several years. I figure it cranks an engine at 10000rpm or so. No need to prime the Pee Wee when using this guy!

Just so long as you have enough shim behind the drive plate to keep the crank pin away from the face of the backplate. The aluminum that gets scraped off the backplate is bad for the glow filament.

I think most of the guys around here like the phenolic washers for this purpose. I don't know if one alone is thick enough to give it all the space it needs. I'd put it in combo with a steel one in front of it, whether it needs it or not. I see no reason all steel washers won't work fine. Unless they start dragging with thermal expansion. You some front to back play when the engine is cold. I can't find where Paul Gibeault wrote his smallest gap, seems like it was .022" or thereabouts. I wouldn't go tighter than that.
I need to see if I need one for my big engines that I power start.
Rusty

roddie Sun Jun 07, 2015 2:13 pm

706jim wrote:I've had one of these for several years. I figure it cranks an engine at 10000rpm or so. No need to prime the Pee Wee when using this guy!

Yea.. the reedies will draw fuel with just a couple short bursts.. I'm talking "pulses" on the starter button; replicating the spring-starter action.. and no more. As I stated previously.. I squirt a few drops of fuel or oil over the drive-plate/case area and flip the prop a few times before connecting the plug.. usually when priming the engine.. especially when cold. Do you have a photo? It's really simple to make a small starter. Rusty mentioned having RC car motors to try. They're perfect for the chore. I'll bet a smaller RS380/Speed 400 would start a Pee Wee! Stuff it in a tube w/switch-wiring and 6 sub-C NIMH cells.. and you've got a handy little wireless 1/4A starter! I like mine hardwired.. and connect to the 12V fuel-pump terminals of my power-panel. That circuit has a polarity switch for reversing the direction of the starter-motor. (handy for reedies w/left-hand props)

For the cone.. I use the black rubber 5/16" (inside diameter) automotive fuel line over a suitable hub/coupler for the motor shaft. This cone size engages the .049 Tee Dee-style aluminum spinner perfectly.. and it will "slip" in the event of an engine-flood.. as long as it's not forcibly applied. It doesn't take much pressure on the starter to turn the prop over compression.

Small electric starters definitely come in handy. A Dumas .049 marine flywheel has a pulley-groove for a belt or o-ring. Mounting one on your starter and one on your engine provides for a 1:1 ratio of starter rpm's to cranking rpm's. Great for use in boats, where the starting belt/o-ring is captive to the drive-line. A starter-box for tether-cars is something that would be fun to make. Use an old hard-rubber airplane tire/wheel with it's hub mounted on the starter-motor shaft. Provide a momentary switch under a hinged-plate that actuates when the model is pressed down on the box, for hands-free operation.

roddie Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:07 am

My homemade starter needed some attention. I built it almost 30 years ago.. and although it didn't get 30 years of steady use; it got kicked around some over the years. The .010" sheet-aluminum body-tube had been dented-in.. and the plastic safety-cap surrounding the push-button switch had become brittle.. and pieces had broken-off.

I found another plastic-cap for the switch-safety.. and rolled a new body-tube from some heavy plastic sheet. I reinstalled the hose-clamps which hold it all together.. and then wrapped the tube with clear packing-tape.. to close the seam.

Good for another 30 years?? What?

.. I had thought it's motor was tired.. but it turned-out that the battery wasn't fully charged.

Kim Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:10 am

Way to make continued use of resources Roddie !!!!!!!!!!

NEW222 Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:13 am

I like it! Thanks for doing the rebuild in the name of Cox. Now to take some time and rebuild mine.

balogh Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:55 am

Mine is not a home made one like yours - that I like very much - but a heritage I bought from a true COX guru, the late and great Mr Roger Freiheit who also created and patented the COX 010 PET

exhaust throttle..I have no idea who made this 1/2A size starter but it seems to have eternal life..I have used the heck out of it and still no sign of wear or any complaint...

Has anyone of you met this and know where it was made?

Ken Cook Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:18 pm

Your starter looks what was made by the Miller company. The switch button was red like yours with the exception of the starter cone which was usually black. However, from memory, it's the chrome bezel around the button itself that leads me to believe this is what you have. I think these were made by Astro and they're quite desirable. Ken

balogh Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:24 pm

Thanks Ken..I really like this humble looking electrocritter that is strong enough to spin engines up to and including my TD09-s

roddie Wed Apr 11, 2018 10:18 pm

Ken Cook wrote: Your starter looks what was made by the Miller company. The switch button was red like yours with the exception of the starter cone which was usually black. However, from memory, it's the chrome bezel around the button itself that leads me to believe this is what you have. I think these were made by Astro and they're quite desirable. Ken

I did some searching.. and found this photo of the "Miller". There isn't much info on the web about them. It definitely looks similar to Andras' starter.

The Astro-Flight mini looks like this..

balogh Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:40 pm

Great find Roddie! The Miller is exactly what it looked when I got it new from Roger Freiheit...a very humble lil starter made of very durable materials all over...e.g. the cables of my glow plug clips need regular replacement because the fuel residues kill the insulator on them...this starter still has its original cable...no contact problem with the switch...no problem with the bearings running inside...the silicone cone is still original...in summary, good old American stuff...

rsv1cox Thu Apr 12, 2018 8:01 am

This is my 1/2A starter, made it up from parts.

Ok, kidding. This is the one I use. Came in handy when starting the engine on the "Torches and Pitch Forks" Roy Cox Car.

Works well, but the switch is really sensitive.

getback Fri Apr 13, 2018 9:03 am

Good Job on the starter renew , got some ideas for mine when i get to it Laughing

roddie Wed Aug 07, 2019 9:48 pm

I used my homemade starter this past weekend for the CEF R.W.Y.B. Speed-Contest trials. The starter worked fine.. but has always had a vibration caused by my method of attaching the spinner-cone to the 12V. 540 type can-motor's output-shaft. I use a short length of 5/16" ID rubber/automotive fuel-line for a spinner-cone to fit the Cox Tee Dee .049/.051 style aluminum spinner... exclusively. The motor has a sm. brass gear pressed-onto the output-shaft. The "hose" fits snugly over the gear.. but I always used a single hose-clamp (worm-gear type) to secure it. The clamp is grossly unbalanced for spinning at high RPM's.. so I'm going to attempt some tests "without" the clamp.. to see if the hose/cone will stay on.

Here's a few pics..

The pressed-on gear. This particular motor came from a sm. 12V. Coleman tire-inflator.

My "button" is a momentary-switch enclosed inside a cap/shroud designed to prevent accidental/unintended operation.

The body-tube can be "anything thin".. but the rear-plug should be the same approximate diameter as the motor-case.. to allow forming an even tube.

The wiring should be of a fairly "stout" gage.. (18AWG or heavier). All in all, it's a pretty simple tool to make.. and it can help to start tired old engines with less than optimal compression. Smile

Levent Suberk Thu Aug 08, 2019 3:06 am

Once I made one inspired from your thread.

I attached hose with soft iron wire and twisted ends. A little contact cement is also good on gear. No vibrations any.

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t12008-making-a-starter-for-cox-engines?highlight=Starter

This gasket is helpful if spinner come loose:

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t12500-spinner-gasket-tip?highlight=Gasket

One gasket between spinner and propeller is enough. No need to place another gasket between propeller and drive plate.

I made several of them and I can send if any member want.

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