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vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter Empty vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter

Post  roddie Sat Feb 03, 2024 7:35 pm

I've been working on a shaft-drive system for a Cox .049 Babe Bee engine which will require starting the engine via a "belt" (O-ring). There are flywheels that were purpose-designed by Cox, Dumas and Sterling for running an engine in a marine application. They all have a "groove" (like a pulley) for a belt to grip... or string to be wound-around. I decided to make my own flywheels using some small discs that I'd cut on a CNC mill.. years ago. The discs all have .125" dia. (1/8") center-holes to fit the Cox .049/.051 prop-screw which is a 5-40 size machine-screw.

Once I had the flywheel(s) configured, I devised a system to mount one to the engine.. along with a coupler for an output-shaft. The coupler receives 1/8" (3.17mm) shafts on both sides; secured via set-screws.

The engine side was made using a 1" long 5-40 cap-screw with its head cut-off. I then filed a "flat there" for the coupling's set-screw to bear-on. A 5-40 hex-nut locks the assembly against the engine's prop-drive plate.

vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter 20240187

vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter 20240188

A repeat-assembly was made for the 1/8" dia. shaft on my electric starter's 540 series can-motor.

vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter Marine11

Here's the orig. thread for the starter alone back in 2013.

Below is a link to a short YouTube vid of a test I made this afternoon. I'm happy with the outcome.. and feel more positive about proceeding with a current project for an engine configured this way.



Last edited by roddie on Fri Feb 09, 2024 1:04 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  robot797 Sun Feb 04, 2024 5:44 am

good job!
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vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter Empty coupler modification

Post  roddie Sun Oct 06, 2024 1:20 pm

I thought it worthwhile to post this here. I changed-over to a coupler that I could drill/tap (5-40) which greatly improves overall integrity and balance on the engine-side.  

vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter Coupli15

Adding a 5-40 hex-nut can help to fine-tune the shaft-length if needed.. and lock it there.

vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter Engine16

I cross-drilled my coupling .063" to accept an "L-bent" piano-wire to tighten/loosen the coupling in the absence of the hex-nut.

vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter Coupli16

vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter 20240948

vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter 20240950

vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter 20240949
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Post  robot797 Sun Oct 06, 2024 1:22 pm

I could have used this (maybe still can) for my micro generator (cox 049 diesel)
my shaft coupler keeps on getting lose XD
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Post  roddie Sun Oct 06, 2024 2:00 pm

robot797 wrote:I could have used this (maybe still can) for my micro generator (cox 049 diesel)
my shaft coupler keeps on getting lose XD

Hi Peter, My marine-drive uses a 2mm solid-shaft.. so I needed a coupler that was 2mm on one end. I'm hoping that the grub-screws will hold on the flats I ground on the shaft. I'm guessing that it's best (with an IC engine..) if the drive-components all screw-together.. all the way back to and including a "drive-dog" for the propeller. My drive is a bit different (like I am..  Laughing ) but I hope it works at least long enough to run a tankfull of fuel one time. I could silver-solder the shaft into the coupler I suppose..  Huh...  and may "have to".

The Cox .049 Jet-Drive experiment has been languishing Crying or Very sad ... but I will make that work. I bought two of those drives and although I could run the other one electric.. I want them both to work with the IC engines.
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Post  robot797 Sun Oct 06, 2024 2:06 pm

on my little generator I use the exact same coupler to joun the engine to the generator
and even with the grub screw it keeps on getting unscrewed from the thread XD
so adding a thread inside the coupler makes it possible to tighten it WAY more!!!
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Post  roddie Sun Oct 06, 2024 11:11 pm

robot797 wrote:on my little generator I use the exact same coupler to joun the engine to the generator
and even with the grub screw it keeps on getting unscrewed from the thread XD
so adding a thread inside the coupler makes it possible to tighten it WAY more!!!

A drill-press is helpful... for accurately "drilling-out" a prospective coupler for tapping new machine-threads to accept machine-screws.

I don't have the #3-48 tap or die.. but I do have #'s 2-56, 4-40, 5-40, 6-32 and 8-32 taps along with their recommended drills. We find it handy to have #2, #3, #4, #5 and #6 taps and quality replacement screws for our American-made model engines to keep them in good service. You may opt for metric. Knowing both units is very helpful.. when you work outside the box like I do. I'm still a student.. believe me.

Model-engine machine-work is a revered trade Peter. I could see you getting into that.
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