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Cox Engine of The Month
vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter
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vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter
I've been working on a shaft-drive system for a Cox .049 Babe Bee engine which will require starting the engine via a "belt" (O-ring). There are flywheels that were purpose-designed by Cox, Dumas and Sterling for running an engine in a marine application. They all have a "groove" (like a pulley) for a belt to grip... or string to be wound-around. I decided to make my own flywheels using some small discs that I'd cut on a CNC mill.. years ago. The discs all have .125" dia. (1/8") center-holes to fit the Cox .049/.051 prop-screw which is a 5-40 size machine-screw.
Once I had the flywheel(s) configured, I devised a system to mount one to the engine.. along with a coupler for an output-shaft. The coupler receives 1/8" (3.17mm) shafts on both sides; secured via set-screws.
The engine side was made using a 1" long 5-40 cap-screw with its head cut-off. I then filed a "flat there" for the coupling's set-screw to bear-on. A 5-40 hex-nut locks the assembly against the engine's prop-drive plate.
A repeat-assembly was made for the 1/8" dia. shaft on my electric starter's 540 series can-motor.
Here's the orig. thread for the starter alone back in 2013.
Below is a link to a short YouTube vid of a test I made this afternoon. I'm happy with the outcome.. and feel more positive about proceeding with a current project for an engine configured this way.
Once I had the flywheel(s) configured, I devised a system to mount one to the engine.. along with a coupler for an output-shaft. The coupler receives 1/8" (3.17mm) shafts on both sides; secured via set-screws.
The engine side was made using a 1" long 5-40 cap-screw with its head cut-off. I then filed a "flat there" for the coupling's set-screw to bear-on. A 5-40 hex-nut locks the assembly against the engine's prop-drive plate.
A repeat-assembly was made for the 1/8" dia. shaft on my electric starter's 540 series can-motor.
Here's the orig. thread for the starter alone back in 2013.
Below is a link to a short YouTube vid of a test I made this afternoon. I'm happy with the outcome.. and feel more positive about proceeding with a current project for an engine configured this way.
Last edited by roddie on Fri Feb 09, 2024 11:04 am; edited 1 time in total
robot797- Platinum Member
- Posts : 787
Join date : 2013-07-28
Age : 34
coupler modification
I thought it worthwhile to post this here. I changed-over to a coupler that I could drill/tap (5-40) which greatly improves overall integrity and balance on the engine-side.
Adding a 5-40 hex-nut can help to fine-tune the shaft-length if needed.. and lock it there.
I cross-drilled my coupling .063" to accept an "L-bent" piano-wire to tighten/loosen the coupling in the absence of the hex-nut.
Adding a 5-40 hex-nut can help to fine-tune the shaft-length if needed.. and lock it there.
I cross-drilled my coupling .063" to accept an "L-bent" piano-wire to tighten/loosen the coupling in the absence of the hex-nut.
Re: vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter
I could have used this (maybe still can) for my micro generator (cox 049 diesel)
my shaft coupler keeps on getting lose XD
my shaft coupler keeps on getting lose XD
robot797- Platinum Member
- Posts : 787
Join date : 2013-07-28
Age : 34
Re: vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter
robot797 wrote:I could have used this (maybe still can) for my micro generator (cox 049 diesel)
my shaft coupler keeps on getting lose XD
Hi Peter, My marine-drive uses a 2mm solid-shaft.. so I needed a coupler that was 2mm on one end. I'm hoping that the grub-screws will hold on the flats I ground on the shaft. I'm guessing that it's best (with an IC engine..) if the drive-components all screw-together.. all the way back to and including a "drive-dog" for the propeller. My drive is a bit different (like I am.. ) but I hope it works at least long enough to run a tankfull of fuel one time. I could silver-solder the shaft into the coupler I suppose.. and may "have to".
The Cox .049 Jet-Drive experiment has been languishing ... but I will make that work. I bought two of those drives and although I could run the other one electric.. I want them both to work with the IC engines.
Re: vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter
on my little generator I use the exact same coupler to joun the engine to the generator
and even with the grub screw it keeps on getting unscrewed from the thread XD
so adding a thread inside the coupler makes it possible to tighten it WAY more!!!
and even with the grub screw it keeps on getting unscrewed from the thread XD
so adding a thread inside the coupler makes it possible to tighten it WAY more!!!
robot797- Platinum Member
- Posts : 787
Join date : 2013-07-28
Age : 34
Re: vid showing "finished" belt-start conversion for my "red-neck" electric starter
robot797 wrote:on my little generator I use the exact same coupler to joun the engine to the generator
and even with the grub screw it keeps on getting unscrewed from the thread XD
so adding a thread inside the coupler makes it possible to tighten it WAY more!!!
A drill-press is helpful... for accurately "drilling-out" a prospective coupler for tapping new machine-threads to accept machine-screws.
I don't have the #3-48 tap or die.. but I do have #'s 2-56, 4-40, 5-40, 6-32 and 8-32 taps along with their recommended drills. We find it handy to have #2, #3, #4, #5 and #6 taps and quality replacement screws for our American-made model engines to keep them in good service. You may opt for metric. Knowing both units is very helpful.. when you work outside the box like I do. I'm still a student.. believe me.
Model-engine machine-work is a revered trade Peter. I could see you getting into that.
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