New 1/2a Control Line Handles

Thanks for the compliments as well as the recommendations. I was actually thinking of something I could use to attach my lines as well, then thought of possibly inserting a hardwood stick of appropriate diameter in the coroplast 'flute' on the leading edge of the handle then drill a 1/16" hole through for the lines. It may make it a bit better/stronger. I was originally wanting to make a few from wood, but I just did not get a chance to get a piece yet, and was bored. At least now I know what kind of wood to look for. I will however report back on how they do work and hold up.

Now just another question regarding these. Would I be better off tying the line used snugly to the handle, or tying the knot so there is a little loop on the handle side? Thank you.

The major hurdle with that material is it's inability to glue to it. If your flying where no one other than yourself is going to get hurt than go for it. Your examples would work if done in plywood without the worry of it failing. I made many handles and one similar to yours from 1/4" birch 5 ply  plywood and used a aluminum channel with a .018" cable for adjustment. While your  material would probably take the required load, I can see it weakening or even stretching out the termination point over time. It really isn't worth attempting. here's a picture of what I was making. I use the aluminum due to flying high powered 1/2A engines. This certainly wouldn't be required for Cox engines due to their low power compared to ball bearing .049's. However, it does allow for my adjustable cable internally without adding anything clunky or hanging out. If you did use 1/4" ply, several holes could be drilled within the plywood. You can purchase wide on one end line clips which are very inexpensive and use them through the wood . The last pic is the type of clip I'm mentioning.The wide end would go through the handle and the opposing end to your eyelet. These will withstand a lot of force lbs of force but I pull test them daily  to 45 lbs which is no where close to what a 1/2A experiences. Ken

Ken ; like your handles and would like to know how your adjustment works , more detail Please , I presume the thing (screw ) between the lead outs are used for adjustment ?Is it a clamping force ? I 'll stop guess now . Thanks . Eric

Eric, the channel is 1/4" wide inside. This makes sliding the 1/4" plywood into it a nice feature. I have a piece of 1/4" x 3/4" aluminum bar stock inside the channel with a groove for the cable filed into it. I tapped the adjust screw for a 4/40 and this in conjunction with the knurled knob pinches the cable preventing it from sliding. The black walnut has a bit of history behind it. I was at the sawmill when the tree was cut in 1973. I remember the mill operator stopping the saw and digging it out, giving it to me. There was several musket balls in that old tree. Somewhere I have one of them. This tree wasn't far from the battle of Valley Forge. I always entertain myself with that story thinking all these years that I own a piece of history. Ken

You can see the notch in the one handle on the wood end which is where the piece of aluminum bar is located within the channel.

Thanks Ken ., That sounds Good to go . My handles are too small unless flying with your fingers , and the thumb screw washer thing is a pain in the you know . I will have to source me some stk. and channel . What is the knurled hd. sc screwing into a nut or the bar stock ? That is an interesting story for sure you can find some cannon balls and stuff around these parts if in the right place .

Eric, my hand doesn't fit inside this. I fly with essentially fingertips. My hand will not fit into that cutout. I keep the line spacing under 2". I also keep the overhang of line from the handle as short as possible. One thing that's not on here and should be is my thong. My handle thong is on my other handle currently. I can't stress enough that everyone should be using one. I got hit in the face last year due to someone not using one. I'm a pretty good size person and it damn near knocked me out. Ken

Thanks Ken for the other advice and help. I really like your handles. I really like the idea behind the adjustment.

New222, Your coroplast handles look good. You could reinforce the line connections by slipping a piece of 1/8" steel music-wire (or drill-rod) into the flute nearest the edge.. and drill your line-spacing holes just behind it. Keeping the rod from slipping out would obviously be important.. maybe make the rod-length 1" shorter than the handle.. and insert 1/2" long "pegs" into the flute on each side secured a solvent-type glue? (heck.. you could even staple the flutes closed on each end if you wanted)

roddie, thanks for the tip. That would really work as good as or even better than my idea of finding a wood spar to fit and drill through. It would serve the exact same purpose. I will probably be getting back on this now that it was mentioned. Thank you.

NEW222 wrote:roddie, thanks for the tip.  That would really work as good as or even better than my idea of finding a wood spar to fit and drill through.  It would serve the exact same purpose.  I will probably be getting back on this now that it was mentioned.  Thank you.

Cool! The only thing missing.. is an adjustment for trimming up/down.. Maybe "shoe-lacing" your line through a series of several holes spaced 1/4" apart would hold the adjustment? This would mean using a "single-line" twice the length of what your total length will be. Maybe use a needle to make these holes and thread the line through the coroplast? You'll end-up with having the line pulling "inward" on the coroplast, as a result of the loop arrangement.. but it will still be safe from pulling out of the handle. Make sure if you do it this way; that you tug on each line to check against slippage.

Ah, dang it roddie. You did it again. I just finished installing the metal rod and making holes. As for the rod, I used a coathanger. First, I mixed some epoxy, filled the hole in the bottom a bit, approximately 1/4", set down to cure. I then cut my coathanger to length, inserted it followed by epoxy on the top as well, with the handle down at a 45 degree so that the rod will be in front of my lines. After this cured, I took a t-pin and heated it with a torch and passed it through the coroplast. After this, I was contemplating 1 or 2 pieces ironically, but was unsure as to how to use 1 piece. So, back to your theory of using more holes to 'shoelace' my line 1/4" apart, how many holes would be required. I have my main holes spaced at 2 1/4" apart ( I know the 1:1 thing, and my bellcrank is spaced at 2"). So from these holes, I assume you are suggesting making my holes as to meet in the middle, but how many would you suggest. Thank you again for your help.

NEW222 wrote:Ah, dang it roddie.  You did it again.  I just finished installing the metal rod and making holes.  As for the rod, I used a coathanger.  First, I mixed some epoxy, filled the hole in the bottom a bit, approximately 1/4", set down to cure.  I then cut my coathanger to length, inserted it followed by epoxy on the top as well, with the handle down at a 45 degree so that the rod will be in front of my lines.  After this cured, I took a t-pin and heated it with a torch and passed it through the coroplast.  After this, I was contemplating 1 or 2 pieces ironically, but was unsure as to how to use 1 piece.  So, back to your theory of using more holes to 'shoelace' my line 1/4" apart, how many holes would be required.  I have my main holes spaced at 2 1/4" apart ( I know the 1:1 thing, and my bellcrank is spaced at 2").  So from these holes, I assume you are suggesting making my holes as to meet in the middle, but how many would you suggest.  Thank you again for your help.

I thought about that after suggesting the shoe-lacing idea.. but wasn't sure what line-spacing you were going with. You could do this a few different ways.. depending on the space available between your grip and the line-attachment area.

Easier to illustrate than explain.. a "zig-zag" pattern might help to prevent line-slippage.. and also allow more holes in the small spacing. This approach would also take the inward tension off the main spacing holes.



Maybe install additional rods? It might make the handle a more comfortable weight.. or provide a better "feel". If I had some coro-flute.. I'd try this myself! You might want to line the grip with vinyl (electrical) tape for comfort.

Awesome, thank you for the help. I will post a couple of pictures when it is done. I was just looking for my line, and cannot seem to find it now. This is a real bummer. But, if I cannot find it soon, I will just go out and buy some more.

I really like your handle design as well. Looks like it would be a nice fit.

NEW222 wrote:I really like your handle design as well.  Looks like it would be a nice fit.

That's a "Sig" 1/2A handle tracing.



The Sig handle is still available for $6.00 separately. It's included in their 1/2A flight pack which includes a pint of 1/2A fuel (Champion 25% nitro), a syringe for priming, a glowplug clip/hook-up wire, Dacron line and line connectors.