COX .020 POWERED SPEEDSTER

1/2A Nut wrote:I cover the balsa and ply surfaces only after going over with fine grit and a proper wipe down with a cotton cloth.
Looking for a clean polished finish to insure best possible bond with the covering.
Proper iron temp is everything as well, can be pull separation tested tested on some prepped scarp wood.

The .09 plane had a piece of clear tape hinged at the aileron control horn and wing prior to covering to improve no
cover hinge separation over time. The constant push / pull action makes this extra step worth it with larger surfaces.
Proper full covering with no expose wood is key to avoid exhaust oils do not wick under the covering.
The small engine displacements do just fine up to 15 size engines with proper technique and covering brand / age.
Note the top surface hinge has a slight bevel induced by the iron tip ran along the crease line to establish consistent
hinge point.

balogh wrote:Nice work, I like the adjustable-length aileron pushrod concept!

As a weight cut option you may want to try a 400mAh Lipo battery with a small DC to DC ramp up converter from 3.7 to 5 volts, and a Zepsus magnetic
micro-switch...the whole package stops at about 0.6 oz or so and brings extra power compared to a 220mAh NiMH battery.

balogh wrote:Correct, the beauty of the small DC to DC converter is its output Voltage is adjustable with a small screw, so if your servos run on  4.8 V or even less  safely, the 400mAh on 3.7V level  goes down to 310mAh on 4.8V level or so..my Shoestring micro racer powered by a COX TEE DEE 010 and running on elevator and aileron drains about 5% from the battery  in each 10 minutes flight, so you are good and safe with such a setup for numerous flights before the battery needs recharging...I charge the 1cell LiPo from my starter box with a USB charger so I do not have to run to my car or home for some juice for my onboard battery

1/2A Nut wrote:"5 3/8 ozs before 3 coats of dope and a coat of automotive urethane are applied.........
I could SWISS CHEESE the 1/32" plywood sides and recover maybe a 1/4 oz of dead weight...but some of that recovery would be given back with tissue patches.
I think putting the plane on weight loss surgery  is something that could be done after I try flying this plane at let's say  5 3/4 ozs all shiny, pretty and RTF... "

Note the advantage of ply and spruce sq. stock is a skinny low drag / weight tough ridged fuselage able to smack the ground at full throttle.
The other big advantage is power upgrades and top speeds.

If designed right there is no need to cheese out the fuselage. Would like to upgrade the design with carbon sheet / smaller carbon square stock.



All but the Lil Speedy is ply/spruce:



 

The only way I can make that much room in my loading plan is to leave the aileron servo and linkage hanging out in the wind.

TD ABUSER wrote: The only way I can make that much room in my loading plan is to leave the aileron servo and linkage hanging out in the wind.

1/2A Nut wrote:

TD ABUSER wrote: The only way I can make that much room in my loading plan is to leave the aileron servo and linkage hanging out in the wind.

Very little in the wind if done as shown with no chance of mech loss with aluminum tube getting loose.





Note elevator control horn tucked inline with the fuselage / no snag landings.





Note the Nano X has two servos for redundant control.

1/2A Nut wrote:Ah fear not young grasshopper  
-----psssst times have changed the way to dodge computer radio  price is to buy just the transmitter / 2.4ghz RX!

A big plus with TD .010 speed projects and 4ch 2.4ghz RX are dirt cheap these days.

1/2A Nut wrote:

The radio will allow you to flip switch or dial in a bit of down flap with dual servos for landing projects with ease.

1/2A Nut wrote:Yes that was a good save Chuck!
Offset for prop torque is another needed trick, the speed props are smaller in dia, but the
extreme rpm does kick the left wing down in a heartbeat at launch.
Took 3 trim flights to hone in the .010 control throws with a tame 2.56x3 prop.