COX .020 POWERED SPEEDSTER

1/2A Nut wrote:Awesum sauce CHUCK!!!!!!!!!!!
Plenty of room in that belly with enough firewall for a radial mounted TD .020

I was out of 1/64 and 1/32 ply or I would have used that instead of 1/16" balsa for the fuselage
The sides are cross grain 1/16 balsa, the top and bottom sheeting  is just 1/16 balsa...... so it's possible to sand the corners of the fuselage without needing to add tri stock internally.
There isn't much room to spare between the aileron servo arm and the 200 ma LIFE pack that needed to go directly below.
The elevator servo had to be mounted aft of the wing....so instead of making some sort of a separate hatch I just buried it....
As a licensed Electrician I find it hard to deliberately make an electrical device like a servo not "READILY ACCESSIBLE"...

Next one of these I build...I'm going to do it much more like you did in order to make it come out lighter.
Thanks again for the time you've spent getting me "up to speed" and with the "how to" and "where to go" advice.
Thanks go out to Greg at .....https://kamtechnik.com/ for all of the very fine specialty equipment he sells to support the fuel burning engines in our hobby...!

TD ABUSER wrote:As a licensed Electrician I find it hard to deliberately make an electrical device like a servo not "READILY ACCESSIBLE"...

Haven't heard those words since retiring 12 years ago. Applies also to HVAC and plumbing.

Your mention reminds me, hearing song and dance from various less than honorable building contractors on federal jobs whilst inspecting, reason why specs spell those words out on HVAC filter banks, plumbing valves and yes, electrical boxes.

Found electrical boxes on new work with construction debris, wiring insulation tailings and wire clippings, electric panels with circuits unlabeled, etc. Tells me electrician wasn't proud of his work but in a hurry.

This is why I enjoy bell ringing on my saxophones with the Salvation Army at store fronts during Christmas. Now I am the song and dance man. (I should have made the Army Band my career.)

GallopingGhostler wrote:

TD ABUSER wrote:As a licensed Electrician I find it hard to deliberately make an electrical device like a servo not "READILY ACCESSIBLE"...

Haven't heard those words since retiring 12 years ago. Applies also to HVAC and plumbing.

Your mention reminds me, hearing song and dance from various less than honorable building contractors on federal jobs whilst inspecting, reason why specs spell those words out on HVAC filter banks, plumbing valves and yes, electrical boxes.

Found electrical boxes on new work with construction debris, wiring insulation tailings and wire clippings, electric panels with circuits unlabeled, etc. Tells me electrician wasn't proud of his work but in a hurry.

This is why I enjoy bell ringing on my saxophones with the Salvation Army at store fronts during Christmas. Now I am the song and dance man. (I should have made the Army Band my career.)

What I found a lot of while doing work in old buildings was MILLIONS of open junction [splice] boxes.
One of the worst examples was at the Seattle PUBLIC SAFETY Building........
I had to crawl above the ceiling in one of the lobbies of that building to run a conduit.
My flashlight died, but there was a faint light in the distance to guide me to my destination.
I noticed that I was kneeling on a pile of large electrical cables....big enough to be the power feeds to main panels on the upper floors.
That is exactly what they were...100s of pounds of 250 amp cables just laying loosely on top of jagged lathe and plaster framing.

1/2A Nut wrote:Most welcome Chuck,

https://www.youtube.com/@AmpAbuser/search?query=Kamtechnik

I tested many of the prototypes to ring them out for the masses.
Was a fun time to think of the solutions and what the offerings should be.
A search on my youtube channel will show cox / norvel /g-mark proto parts tested.

:

Do you use Park Flyer hardware for the ailerons...?

1/2A Nut wrote:Nylon listed as micro good with TD .010 AND .020 projects.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/134986543372?_skw=micro+nylon+control+horns&epid=691253053&itmmeta=01JAPJYDSGBWP6KSEZ01ZM0W3D&hash=item1f6dd3310c:g:KRsAAOSwtN1l-yNV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKm1WftS9Zgc1o3YPfpN8jIaQWdFq7tnqY9mq0TzMJ2HzDuLK9L0SV8IOZ26%2Bno5l4uxtQKaBThmh9L6HNUyg1AS3n73Vlut6ldTtAbJtZAUYhIdDYpWsGN6G6yReVZ3tXZ9n2l9LyTp4nD8EEvlQr3d2JEanoj5O2RLIwS%2F%2BZBKItqhIN8JbXmkha%2FuKt0QU2YH4LSKYz0ipHMEQ6byON497Qtf1IrCwGGVDuNdst%2FXF%2BE%2BPTJDTz2Ky1Wp2%2Far4FghaVPjqGtmKodro8gXtmUdnlqESUdz8k8iELEtiYbhPw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_Lc-dLVZA

Thanks...!

1/2A Nut wrote:Tough enough for full throttle smacks into hard ground.

I'll bet...!
I just placed an order with National Balsa for all thickness of aircraft plywood.
There are times where nothing is better for the job.

Today I applied a few coats of butyrate dope to the bare wood to act as a primer / sealer.
Then I mixed up about 40 ccs of automotive grade urethane paint and used a Badger air brush to apply it.
Most of what I mixed up never got used.
What's left to do is put a couple of white stripes on the top of the wing panels. I doubt that I can iron on plastic stripes without melting the paint...so I have some old white Klasskote epoxy primer that ought to work. [?]
The KK primer is probably only 10 or 15 years old so it ought to be OK.

.020 Speedster looks like a good design TD…. I always enjoy the “go fast” threads….Pretty awesome to see and hear the Cox engines really rev up!!….. I Look forward to see what you come up with

Thanks for the interest guy..!

Today was...eventful.
The model only gained 1/4 ounce after a few coats of clear dope and a coat of  automotive urethane paint. So the finished weight was 4.5 ozs
The white stripe is low temp iron on that stuck to the paint real good.
The model flew great out of hand.
It's surprisingly fast with the 2 pitch prop.
It has way too much aileron control...I think the ailerons themselves are too big and I can see that you don't need much more than 1/16 inch of throw either side of zero.
The model climbs like a rocket and it knife edges effortlessly....it actually "seeks" knife edge.
The tail hangs low during KE which tells me it was  probably at the AFT limit for the CG
After running out of fuel at about 100 feet up about 300 feet down range I managed to stall the model and it just fell out of the sky.
I wasn't too worried about damage, since the grass is long, the ground is soft and a 4 1/2 ounce plane isn't going to have much impact.
Well I walked back and forth through some pretty swampy land with no luck.
I'll return tomorrow  to continue the search.
I would think that the plane should float..?

Good work,  @TD ABUSER, it looks fast standing still!

GallopingGhostler wrote:Good work,  @TD ABUSER, it looks fast standing still!

Thanks..!
At 4.5 ounces RTF I think one of these planes could hover with a throttle.

Glad it flew well TD… And hope you find it!!….Should calm down for you when you get the ailerons dialed in and less likely to drag it into a stall….Two of my .020 R/C’s are at about
2 grams per sq in wing area…. From your measurements and weight it’s at about
2.55 g- sq in….Not floaters but will have a swift but stable glide too…

rdw777 wrote:Glad it flew well TD… And hope you find it!!….Should calm down for you when you get the ailerons dialed in and less likely to drag it into a stall….Two of my .020 R/C’s are at about
2 grams per sq in wing area…. From your measurements and weight it’s at about
2.55 g- sq in….Not floaters but will have a swift but stable glide too…

It amazing how fast it stalled.
I'm wondering if my eyes are good enough to pick up the visual cue in time.
Next time, I'll build a larger wing in order to get "acclimated" and with a little "washout" at the tips and also JOIN THE RC CLUB WITH A MUCH BETTER FIELD.

1/2A Nut wrote:Best wishes on the hunt for the red speedster, looks great!
Hope to see some vid!

Thanks..!
I better find it soon before the weather gets colder..

1/2A Nut wrote:A drone with a camera would spot it fast. I sand in washout and
foil the surfaces once trimmed / CG they glide in stable enough.

That's the glide I was expecting, so I figured on flying the first flight with laps high and fairly close, then circling out to about 300 feet away to glide on in.
I spent 2 hours today tromping through the swampy land with no luck. The time consuming spots are where big clumps of tall grass and bushes are growing out of land that's below water. I mark where I've been with colored tape, and snapping the ends off of little branches.
I can't believe a plane this light would bury itself or plow through the tall grass to reach the mud...with no power.

I had a similar happening back around 1980. I was flying my Ace Littlest Stick under Pew Wee power and rudder only Mattel pulse proportional. This was at the public model airplane field east of the Pali near Kaneohe, Oahu, Hawaii.

There was a swamp with high reeds on the northeast side of the field. It climbed out strong, then about 25 feet altitude, engine started to sag in power, power glided right into the reeds far enough where I couldn't climb and get it.

It was a total loss.

GallopingGhostler wrote:I had a similar happening back around 1980. I was flying my Ace Littlest Stick under Pew Wee power and rudder only Mattel pulse proportional. This was at the public model airplane field east of the Pali near Kaneohe, Oahu, Hawaii.

There was a swamp with high reeds on the northeast side of the field. It climbed out strong, then about 25 feet altitude, engine started to sag in power, power glided right into the reeds far enough where I couldn't climb and get it.

It was a total loss.

The few flights I've had with .020 sized planes at  these pretty rough fields is you almost need to step on the plane to find it after it lands....