The second Cox Beaver chainsaw, not pretty

rdw777 wrote:Shoot! That’s too bad about the missing parts!…. I sure they would be difficult to find on their own?…. Well, I’m glad you got the first one together OK…. Let us know what happens for #2….

Thanks Robert, but a bit of good news.  

Mark replaced the flywheel on his vintage Sears Chainsaw and kept the old one.  I had noticed that it was about the same size as the Cox and I just tried it.  A perfect fit.




He says that it has low magnitism and it's missing a fin (@ about 190 degrees in the picture.)  It has counterweights.  But there are two flywheels marked L.M. Cox on ebay for sale right now.  

This morning Mark and I were able to get the Genie back in the bottle.  Took four hands a pair of vice grips some courage and luck to get it done.

If one cared to, would it work in a one-fifth or quarter scale light plane? Then it could be entered in the Cox Engine of the Month Contest.

akjgardner wrote:Did the cox chainsaws come in different sizes?

Not really, same 1 hp motor, & 16" chain.  Differences are 2 different style mufflers, minor changes in the carburator air cleaner, labels - Series 140 and Beaver.  

This one came with a problem, a big problem.  

The hex keyed starter pulley machine screw hogged out despite my best efforts to keep it from doing so.  We had to drill the countersunk head off it to get the ratchet off.   Now I have to drill it out and retap.  Oh to have Mauricio's lathe.




I did not know what size it was (10/32) so I had to take my other one off to find out.  Takes a #21 bit.  








I found the exact same screw on ebay, $3.68 for 25. You need one or a couple, I'm your guy.

Getting another flywheel the same size seems like would be the hardest part to find…. Good fortune your son had one to fit!! … Hopefully enough zap to make a spark!!…. A striped bolt and a few other missing pieces just adds fun value to the rebuild…. I bet it will be making that nice two stroke smoke soon

rdw777 wrote:Getting another flywheel the same size seems like would be the hardest part to find…. Good fortune your son had one to fit!! … Hopefully enough zap to make a spark!!…. A striped bolt and a few other missing pieces just adds fun value to the rebuild…. I bet it will be making that nice two stroke smoke soon

I hope so Robert.  I want one to run, the other to look at.  So I bought a little insurance.  




Missing the muffler, carburator, and bar and chain for sure.  I do not know if anything else is missing.  But a careful inspection indicates that the internals are there along with that very important engine which I may want to play with a bit.    Bar and chain are easy to find, the carburator less so.

I should be able to combine the two and come up with an operating chainsaw.  All three together cost lest than the $640 examples now for sale on ebay.  

First one would be the looker but it still may run, no reason why it wouldn't.

There are aspects surrounding this hobby/mechanics/physics/karma that I do not understand.

Why would this machine screws resistance hog out a hex key hole but succumb to a jewelers screwdriver? Beyond me!

Just went out to the garage to see if a 1/8" bit would chew into this drilled out screw. Set it up on the drill press and when applied I noticed what was left of the shaft actually moved into the shaft........... Got out a hand drill and selected reverse to see if it would back out. Nothing.

Took it to the basement workshop and cut a shallow slot with a dremel and backed it out with a screwdriver. I'm going out and buy a lottery ticket.

Those saws are lucky you bought them, giving them the attention they've long been waiting for. Sad to see so many of them out there in this rough of shape though.


If you haven't gotten to the carbs yet, I see a complete custom kit is available:

https://www.sugarcreeksupply.net/products/cox-carburetor-kit

There is also this: https://www.coxengineforum.com/t10178p25-cox-140-beaver#200408

Thanks Jacob, I wll have to look into the first link, and I had forgotten all about the second one.

A looker isn't it.  Maybe a clone..............



BTW

"Why would this machine screws resistance hog out a hex key hole but succumb to a jewelers screwdriver"

I had given it a penetrating oil soak to loosen any stickyness on the counter-sunk cone portion of the machine screw followed by a butane torch heat.  Still hogged out the screws hole while the hex head wrench points stayed intact.  I'm still figuring...

Took me about three hours this morning to clean this mess up.  Berrymans, hot soapy water, cold water rinse. Air compresser.

The engines turn this morning.

Berrymans, hot soapy water, hot water rinse. Blow dry. Heat and disassembled. Piston in much better condition. Rings are free unlike the first one. Cylinder is fine and the locating fifth hole in the case did not get broken. Careful use of an Xacto blade separated with no damage to the gasket. I love those ganged roller bearings.






Chain saws get rough treatment. Ran long and hard in nasty conditions. Hot weather or cold. Sat down on damp forrest floors if their lucky, dropped into streams or on rocks is not unusual. Get the gas/oil mixture off and you can burn up an engine. These two are nicked up a bit but not too bad, both probably purchased for around the house use. Wear it out then drop it off at a pawn shop for five or ten bucks. Pawn shops in WV are loaded with them.

Disassembled but still internally nasty, so back in the Berrymans.

Clean inside and out now.  Fine steel wool on the contact surfaces, Marvel Mystery oil on the bearings and wear points.



Rings on the first one were seized, these not so.  Used my old finger nail trick 180 out compressing until the gap closed then push.  Not easy!  Bottom ring a hair puller top ring not so much.  Forgot to insert the chain drive shaft, had to pull the piston out again.  Groan!  Got them back in only to find the chain drive shaft had shifted to outside the connecting rod. Out again.  More groan!!  Finally got them and the shaft in.  




The hex drive screws are in the mailbox and I have the Woodruff keys.  Waiting on building a wiring harness with points and condenser before final assembly.  Thinking about shopping old push lawn mower points/condenser.  I think that Cox used off the shelf parts for these.  



BTW - I did not remove the crank pin. Those little snap rings are easy to lose and besides I do not have pliers with points that small.

Neat use of the Dremel Bob to get the screw out …. I used mine one time to drill/grind a broken of stud on an exhaust manifold on a car to the point I could get a tap in it…. Wonderful tool…

I bet your right about ignition components being common to other small engines… Will just be a matter to cross reference…. Part of the necessary detective work

I think you might end up with two good runners. seems to be all coming together If you can get the ignition parts youll be right. great progress.

yabby

Looking really nice Bob!

Ha ha.  Well done Jacob on the new emoticons.  

You're getting to know members' individual quirks.

Planes, trains, automobiles, and now chainsaws.  Brilliant!

Ahh, but a new problem.  And I thought seating the rings was difficult.  Getting tab A into slot A, it just don't fit in there kids.  




and.....I received those hex head countersunk machine screws.  Each has a little dot of nylon half-way up the threads.

[url=https://servi

 Nylock type only in a different way.  First time I have seen these.  Too difficult to screw in so I wirewheeled off most of it. Still effective though.  I scared the shaft up a bit Robert when I used the Dremel.  I'll live with it considering the alternative.  

BTW, checkout the finish on this chainsaw.  Berrymans..................






About ten minutes later.  Just ordered a new gallon.  This one lasted me about five years and cleaned countless model engine and MG/Mazda parts.

I just tried again.  Sometimes you just get lucky.

Turns out it does just slip in there.  But you have to hold it off center, tilt it and hold your mouth just right.  



Chain oiler.  Metering needle a bit bent,  tapping hammer helped.  Better but not perfect.










Best way is to screw it into the housing to the point of bend and push.  But we have a plastic housing here so I could not do that.  Brass, careful application of a tapping hammer reduced the risk of snapping.

Two differeent carburators and oil metering systems that I have yet to get into.

Making good progress Bob. I was going to complain about the plastic carb on a unit that old, but almost forgot about our early 50s Cox engines and their plastic components LOL. Plastic, that new space age material. Be careful to check that the mating surfaces of the plastic carb aren't warped. That can be an issue on old Lawn Boys that use plastic carbs, especially if tightened down too hard, and when gaskets start to go flat unevenly.

Oldenginerod wrote:Ha ha.  Well done Jacob on the new emoticons.
You're getting to know members' individual quirks.

I was long overdue to add a few new emoticons. Still working on Kim's suggestion.

Thanks Jacob.

 Cox did make some changes to these over the years, but I do not know what predates what.  One carburator is plastic, the other is cast alloy that is not magnetic.  They changed the auto oiler and muffler too. Both are completely different.

Got the third chainsaw yesterday.  Same Cox emblem - 140 not Beaver.  No bar, chain, or muffler and the carburator is missing.  Otherwise complete.  Engine turns over.  

Sigh of relief.

I thought I would have to drill out this hex head shaft machine screw too.  Impact screwdriver had no effect and was beginning to round off the hex head.  Tried a L shaped hex wrench.  It just bent.  Went to my tool of last resort and with considerable effort got that nice snap/crack release.  That handle enables a lot of torque.  Dowel through the exhaust port locks the piston.




I found additional differences.  Again, I have no idea which came first.  Point gap embossed on points cover and engine number.  My other two are not numbered but from internet pictures, I knew that some were.




Finding the wiring harness made my day and there is a small engine repair shop not to far away.  They should have the condenser and points, then I can wire it up and install in the missing engine.  Now, to find a carburator.