NEW: Model Stylo (nro.4) and Norvel BIG MIG .061 R/C (nro.3 crashed)..

balogh wrote:Congratulations Mauricio. I am happy mine is an isolated case of failure and frustration. With the replacement cylinder and piston mine also works well but other than the RC carb I do not see my Big Mig outperform my TD049/51 engines that spin the same prop faster.

Thank you very much Andras.
Actually I'm not comparing engines, I just like small engines and each one with its history.
I have not been to check the rpm of an engine to analyze and see the rpm of another engine, for the moment I enjoy the diversity of possibilities and each with its own charm.
Greetings to you friend!

Surfer_kris wrote:Glad to hear that it is working well for you Mauricio.

I wouldn't recommend lapping the piston though, as you seem to do in the first video? Just ignore the manual, pre-heat the cylinder and run-in the engine as you would do with any other ABC engine. You do not want to take away the precious pinch at TDC.

I understand your Kris point, however, it is impossible (at least in my engine) to preheat and hand-lay without first having done at least a few seconds the procedure with the starter. The top dead center is spelled out in an incredible way.
Believe me I tried, but here I must say that, the manual is right, just add heat (by means of the air gun) by own decision, to make the wear or previous accumulation was not aggressive.

You are right Mauricio one shkuld not put these small engines in a competition just enjoy fiddling with them

The Engine run sounded really good , Thank You for taking the time to do the breakin procedure also !

balogh wrote:You are right Mauricio one shkuld not put these small engines in a competition just enjoy fiddling with them

This is a friend, they are treasures that make me happy, each and every one of them has a story, its creators, their struggle to improve them, we enjoy putting them in motion, many times they are even a therapy that clears us of the world .... in short everyone deserves respect and affection ... at least it is what happens to me ...

getback wrote:The Engine run sounded really good , Thank You for taking the time to do the breakin procedure also !  

Hello Eric, thanks to you for leaving your comment here.
I found it interesting to do the video, since this engine needs that procedure and after that, it works perfectly.
I am already working on a model to place it and watch it fly! ..... thank you friend!  
Do you have any Norvel?

Nice running engine. Nice low idle.

What APC prop did you use?

Norvel is an excellent engine line. I love them almost as much as my Cox engines but the Norvels tend to be more powerful. If you like the 061 you should try they're 074!

Jason_WI wrote:Nice running engine. Nice low idle.

It seems that it is going very well! ... Thanks for your message, friend!

1/2A Nut wrote:What APC prop did you use?

APC 6x3....I forgot to mention!

Geist Flieger wrote:Norvel is an excellent engine line. I love them almost as much as my Cox engines but the Norvels tend to be more powerful. If you like the 061 you should try they're 074!

Thank you for your message ... they are my first steps with Norvel. I like how it goes! ... we'll see in the future maybe a .074

You should try this prop with the Norvel .61
APC 6x4E less weight thinner airfoil at the hub will produce similar thrust with better speed.
The hub matches the engine's prop plate diameter better too.

https://www.apcprop.com/product/6x4e/

Norvel .061/APC 6x3 / 17,613 / 113w / .152 hp / 18oz thrust / 50 mph

TT GP-07 / APC 6x4 / 17,490 / 148w / .198hp / 18oz thrust / 66mph
25% nitro / 20% castor

Norvel .074 /APC 6x4 / 18,653 / 181w /.242hp / 21oz thrust / 71 mph

Yes Mauricio, i have 2.5 the one in the middle came to me with a broken rod and i just haven't got around to putting it in .

The 74 i dont have a muffler for i have ran the one on right as you can see i cleaned it too much and the chrome is coming off .... Thought i had a video but don't guess so or i can't find it ??

Well folks, taking up pending projects, I continue now with a model for the Norvel .061 RC.
So, I am making my own model that I shared with you a long time ago, I called it Stylo and placed a .049 R / C Medallion and a .051 R / C Tee Dee:

This next one will carry the Norvel .061 R/C! .... I will be sharing the progress....

Well ... that's how my Stylo Model is left and this time with Norvel .061 R / C engine.
There is little to finish, and it is a pleasure to be here sincerely and share it with all of you ....

Sweet you should have some fun with the extra power Mauricio!!!!

What did you use to stick the canopy down? This is always an area I make a mess of.

I use E6000 to glue my plastics on. Try to keep the glue line thin. Used on Drink Bottle (HDPE #6?) plastic is just fine, but I noticed some distortion on styrene plastic...especially when the layer of glue is thick! I started using dots to hold styrene engine cowls in place. For canopies, I try to maintain a glue line along the edge, and rub any that mushes out with a dry finger tip. The stuff behaves like rubber cement, holds like silicone, and has proven to be fuel proof to 20% nitro. I can pop up a picture of the distortion if you like.
Oh, and regarding removing a styrene part..fuggedaboutit! You'll tear it up. But I successfully recovered my Scientific P-40 canopy by being very careful as I pulled. So it apparently doesn't burn HDPE, but really digs into styrene.

I will try this

ndustrial Strength E6000 Glue 29.5 ml for Rhinestones Crystals Jewelry & bead DESCRIPTION E6000 is formulated to meet high performance industrial requirements. The self-leveling formula forms a powerful bond with most any material and will remain flexible once cured. E6000 Industrial will handle just about any project DIYers or PROs throw at it! FEATURES Tough - 2X stronger and 60X more flex than Polyurethane! Non-flammable once cured Chemical resistant - safe for applications exposed to dilute acids and dilute caustics Waterproof - can be submerged in fresh and salt water after complete cure Paintable - paint to match surrounding area to make UV-resistant Temperature resistant - unaffected by extreme heat or cold once cured Flexible - excellent for bonding items subject to vibration

That's the stuff!

1/2A Nut wrote:Sweet you should have some fun with the extra power Mauricio!!!!

 

Great !!! ... let's see what happens!
Thanks friend!