MaCoy 35 liner removal

Ken Cook wrote:No, the liner is the fins. Remove head screws, 3 of them will be longer and that's what holds the cylinder. Remove fins/cylinder. Gaskets will be ruined during process and more than likely will be preventing the removal of this part. Pour 3 in one oil onto fins where cylinder meets case and heat until oil smokes. A twist usually breaks it free. If you don't have this gasket or try to reuse it, there's a very good chance you will have poor performance and that's if you can start it at all. The head gasket is usually fiber as well and is way over due for replacement.

Sorry Ken, quess I should have stated that I have the head off, and was just looking at best way to remove  fin/ cylinder. Yes i'm going to replace all gaskets. And what do you usually use to heat the area up.
Thanks

Anyone have a link to Chellies gaskets for the MaCoy? I can't seem to find her site on ebay.

I use a propane torch. This is why I use oil on the cylinder due to using it as a indicator of how hot. You don't blaze the cylinder with immediate heat. Wave it around the cylinder and around the case heating until the oil begins to steadily smoke. A twist with a pair of gloves on will quickly break it loose. Use a decent leather glove otherwise your going to burn yourself. Not Chellie's gasket, but here is the base gasket and head gasket. The head screws are dead soft and strip just looking at them. I replace them with allen socket heads. The problem is the 3 long ones are not 1" and they're longer than 3/4". They're approx 7/8" long which requires allen socket heads to be ground down.

Not Chellie's gaskets but effective http://www.ebay.com/itm/McCoy-35-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-Set-of-2-Upper-and-Lower-NIP-/201481262352?hash=item2ee9381510:g:e74AAOxyjxlTPavP

Ken Cook wrote:I use a propane torch. This is why I use oil on the cylinder due to using it as a indicator of how hot. You don't blaze the cylinder with immediate heat. Wave it around the cylinder and around the case heating until the oil begins to steadily smoke. A twist with a pair of gloves on will quickly break it loose. Use a decent leather glove otherwise your going to burn yourself. Not Chellie's gasket, but here is the base gasket and head gasket. The head screws are dead soft and strip just looking at them. I replace them with allen socket heads. The problem is the 3 long ones are not 1" and they're longer than 3/4". They're approx 7/8" long which requires allen socket heads to be ground down.

              Not Chellie's gaskets but effective http://www.ebay.com/itm/McCoy-35-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-Set-of-2-Upper-and-Lower-NIP-/201481262352?hash=item2ee9381510:g:e74AAOxyjxlTPavP

Got it. Thanks again.

Not to sound condescending, but while Chellie's gaskets do work well, they're considerably thicker than stock. This can alter the engine's already low compression. I have found the fiber head gaskets ( Any type or brand )  to be very susceptible to leaks thus causing further loss of compression.Using the metal also improves compression by dropping the cylinder head a few thou. Procure a Fox .35 head gasket and use that because it works superior to the fiber not to mention doesn't require the constant tightening maintenance. Deck the top of the cylinder on a piece of glass with wet sand paper and oil I use 320 and lap the top of the cylinder head removing the bluing and then some. Do the same for the case and make certain no casting flaws are left on the case.  I have used Ultra Copper for a base to cylinder gasket in lieu of the base gasket. This can bump up the compression slightly. You must be certain though that the screws don't bottom out in the case and that your actually tightening the cylinder down vs tightening the screw in a bottomed out hole. This is more in reference to my comments in my prior post in regards to screw length.

              While all this seems to be a lot to take in initially, the easiest solution is to put it together, run it and make determinations if something needs to be improved.

Oldenginerod wrote:Here's Chellie's kit including a back-plate gasket and a nylon thrust button.  (2 kits)  She's negotiable.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Kits-McCOY-35-RH-BH-Gasket-Kits-Nylon-Crank-Spacers-/142221209352?hash=item211d0b6f08mpdxhNLT_pL2EtZw3NM8TcQ

I have no experience with the other gaskets recommended, which may be fine, but I can say that Chellie's are very well made and a more comprehensive kit.  She's a bit of a McCoy Redhead expert.

Rod.

Thanks Rod for your imput.

Ken Cook wrote:Not to sound condescending, but while Chellie's gaskets do work well, they're considerably thicker than stock. This can alter the engine's already low compression. I have found the fiber head gaskets ( Any type or brand )  to be very susceptible to leaks thus causing further loss of compression.Using the metal also improves compression by dropping the cylinder head a few thou. Procure a Fox .35 head gasket and use that because it works superior to the fiber not to mention doesn't require the constant tightening maintenance. Deck the top of the cylinder on a piece of glass with wet sand paper and oil I use 320 and lap the top of the cylinder head removing the bluing and then some. Do the same for the case and make certain no casting flaws are left on the case.  I have used Ultra Copper for a base to cylinder gasket in lieu of the base gasket. This can bump up the compression slightly. You must be certain though that the screws don't bottom out in the case and that your actually tightening the cylinder down vs tightening the screw in a bottomed out hole. This is more in reference to my comments in my prior post in regards to screw length.

              While all this seems to be a lot to take in initially, the easiest solution is to put it together, run it and make determinations if something needs to be improved.

Thanks again Ken, will probably deck the head and cylinder some.

What's good glow plug for the MaCoy .35? First one I have owned.