Jerobee Corvette

Rodie, The hook of the brake rod is out of the hole and sits just below the servo horn. It just catches in the hole but need refixing.

This picture of another car shows the set up. Look at the small fan to cool the engine!



Lieven

As it's a calm period at work, I decided to give my Jerobee Corvette a clean. With a cotton bud and alcohol, I cleaned the chassis and all corners. I removed the engine for further cleaning. The tube to which connects the fuel pipe from the tank is the standard Cox pick up tube with the spring.





I removed the heat sink and head. The cylinder has 1 bypass port. The flyweights, clutch shaft and bell house bearing were in good condition. The hexagonal rear axle turns in plastic bearings that you have to pry open for fitting around the shaft. There is a little play on the rear axle gear. No play was found on the rear wheels. They are secured to the shaft with C clips. The brake band is a tie wrap from an electrician.







After assembling everything back together, I tested the servos. The steering servo was OK but the throttle servo was totally dead without giving any noise at all. Both servos are glued with époxy to the chassis. I tried to cut around the bottom edge of the servo with a knife to remove it without success. Not wanting to damage the chassis, I left it on there and decided to cut off the plastic servo shaft and to use the servo as a bracket for the replacement servo. This new servo is a lot smaller and fixed with a tie wrap to the original one.  This meant I had to make a new throttle shaft and extend the brake lever. Before, the brake lever was also fixed to the servo wheel. I decided to just make a hook: when the servo is turned the other way, it pulls the hook and brakes will be applied without significantly change idle.



IDLE



FULL THROTTLE



BRAKING



I just filled the tank with some fuel and will let it sit during the night to loosen residues. To be continued.

Lieven

I can't get over what a mechanical marvel this model is.. and it's luckily in the hands of a fine hobbyist!

Thanks guys, you're all very kind.

Thanks Bandit for the info. The reason why the servo stayed on the chassis as it was, is the fact that I can't get it off in a way that wouldn't damage the chassis. And because I can't remove the servo, I can't get to the bolts underneath to take it apart. The servo doesn't have a gear problem, I think it's an electronic failure or maybe just a loose wire on the circuit board!!

I had a look at the steering today. Not exactly Akkerman!!





To get tru rolling of the front wheels in a curve, the inner wheel should be more at an angle than the outer wheel. The pics above show the opposite. It's all in the linkages and connections to the steering arms. On original factory pictures, the steering rod is fixed between the servo and the most forward hole of the steering arm. On my model, both steering linkages are fixed to the rear hole in the steering arms. This makes a big difference. I uncoupled the ball joints at each side and put the servo in both left and right end positions. I then put each end of the steering linkages on the forward hole of the steering arm and that gives a better result:





Both ball joints will be moved forward and the I'll adjust the linkages to get a slight toe in for stable driving.

Lieven

As said above, I removed the ball joints from the steering arms to move them forward and obtain a better wheel position while steering. The left one screwed out all right, but when I was half way on the right right ball joint... oh malheur!!!!... a part of the steering arm fell off. It seems to have been broken already before just in way of the enlarged hole for the ball joint. I discovered some glue on the steering arm.



I made 2 new steering arms from a sheet of ABS to glue on the original ones for repair and to reinforce.









I stuck both steering arms on with époxy. It is still drying until tomorrow.

There was plenty of rubbish in the fuel tank so I removed the plug. The rubber gasket is "slightly dated". I'm thinking of replacing the complete tank.

Thanks Rod, yes I know; that's the original Jerobe set up with a proper track rod between both wheels. On some pictures, the track rod is connected to the forward holes and on others, to the rear ones. On my model, a previous owner mounted the servo saver and the more recent setup with 2 linkages. I just connected the linkages and did a test but it's still not the way it should be. I'll try to make a a proper track rod with only 1 linkage from the servo saver to the left steering arm.

Just throwing this out there... how about installing a linear servo and/or a small mixing tray.. if you could build one to fit? Is the steering servo glued to the chassis too?

Here's a small one..



buy it here

or this.. which fits the Futaba S3003 servo.



buy it here

Yes this servo is also glued onto the chassis. That's a nice little servo. Just as in the early days of RC but much smaller.

I made a track rod and a new linkage from the servo to the left steering arm.

Nice job Lieven! The fuel tank looks like it could be a Sullivan #435 1oz./29.5cc slant-type.



You can obtain a stopper kit #S482 which is for glow-fuel.



This might be nice too.. #S469

That's the tank. I'll buy a complete new one. They are sold by Scientific France. I'll save the tapered clunk.

Thanks for the link!!

With the body on

Thanks Eric, In the first place, I'm wating for some descent weather. Yes, I need to buy a ne tank but I fitted another temporary tank for the first trials. My radio? I bought one this year, not a super expensive one: a T2M Pilot 6G , 6 channel 2,4 Ghz.



I just had a good look. It says "T2M Racing Products"!!! You can imagine how fast that car will go with that radio