New design Cox .049 snap starter

SuperDave Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:47 am

The new design eliminates the usual black plactic cam plate and the spring more closely resembles the one used on the TD .010 (The spring loops over the prop when starting) Additionally the spring doesn't drag on the prop as with the old design.

Got three from Bernie and I am very pleased with how well they work.

nitroairplane Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:56 am

THis is actually the old design with the cam being the newer one.
But yes i prefer this kind too.

SuperDave Thu Dec 01, 2011 7:33 pm

Refer to Bernie's SKU49SSNOD.

Are you saying this is the OLD design offered once again? All the old snap starters that I remember had a plastic cam plate and the spring would drag on the prop when the engine was running.

**Admin** Thu Dec 01, 2011 7:59 pm

This is a older design just offered once again... http://coxengines.ca/product.php?productid=351&cat=0&page=1 I don't think they were ever really discontinued (except in 2005-06 when Estes stopped the production line). They came on my post 1996 Killer Bees and on the Venom and on the Texaco all the way up to 2005! I know they were around in the 80s, 70s, 60s and late 50s!

microflitedude Thu Dec 01, 2011 8:14 pm

Yikes...

That is the only starter I know of used other than the snap starter. It was used on everything!

The "Zero Drag".

nitroairplane Fri Dec 02, 2011 1:55 am

However I think the killer bee one was different as the prop engages at the top not the bottom.

**Admin** Fri Dec 02, 2011 2:40 am

nitroairplane wrote:However I think the killer bee one was different as the prop engages at the top not the bottom.

Bernie's spring starters engages at the top and so does the ones on my Killer Bees.

https://sites.google.com/site/coxenginecollection/killer-bee

I have some older (much older) ones that are set up to engage at the bottom.

Like on my QZ https://sites.google.com/site/coxenginecollection/quiet-zone

microflitedude Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:03 am

Mine engage at the top and bottom, sideways, crossways.... Very Happy

SuperDave Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:56 am

As long as everyone is "hapy" with their spring starter arrangement that's all that matters. Smile

I just thought that the style that drags on a running prop more trouble that it was worth.

(Personally I just use one of my digital appendages) I always have it "on hand". Cool

andrew Fri Dec 02, 2011 9:31 am

SuperDave wrote:...............
(Personally I just use one of my digital appendages) I always have it "on hand".

AAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHH!!!!! Very Happy

**Cribbs74** Fri Dec 02, 2011 10:02 am

Along the lines of this subject, I have a black widow with the newer style spring starter is it possible to install an older style babe bee spring starter on it? I ran it without one for a while and decided to put one back on it for originality sake but, the drag is considerable as Super Dave says.

Kim Fri Dec 02, 2011 10:18 am

cribbs74 wrote:Along the lines of this subject, I have a black widow with the newer style spring starter is it possible to install an older style babe bee spring starter on it? I ran it without one for a while and decided to put one back on it for originality sake but, the drag is considerable as Super Dave says.

Yeah, they just slide on, over the prop hub, and snap around the cylinder base...and you're set to go.

andrew Fri Dec 02, 2011 10:48 am

If your BW has the hex drive plate, the cam portion just pops off (you may have already removed yours). The no drag spring will slip over the hex drive, but you will have to work it over the hex portion since this plate is a larger diameter than the round drive plate. The other option is to remove the hex plate --- I would avoid this if I could.

I think it's the better way to go --- no drag. Just make sure that after installation, it clears the back of the prop while the engine is running (it can vibrate a bit).

SuperDave Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:03 am

To install the "no drag" snap starter on my Surestart (w/hex drive plate) I carefully removed the drive plate, instaled the spring, put the drive plate back on the crank then torqued down a prop to seat the drive plate properly. (BTW, both the crank and drive plate are both splined to fit each other)

I considered forcing the spring on over the hex drive plate but prefer the above method.

**RknRusty** Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:06 am

I have some older (much older) ones that are set up to engage at the bottom.

That's so you can more easily turn it 1.25 turns - the amount it takes to prevent backwards starting.

**Cribbs74** Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:13 am

Ok then, I will place an order for one soon. I was mostly concerned about the fit. The babe bee crankcase and black widow look identical so I figured it would work. Never considered the hex drive being an issue. If it is too much of a pain I will pull the crank like SD suggested. Thanks yet again!

microflitedude Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:28 am

cribbs74 wrote:Ok then, I will place an order for one soon. I was mostly concerned about the fit. The babe bee crankcase and black widow look identical so I figured it would work. Never considered the hex drive being an issue. If it is too much of a pain I will pull the crank like SD suggested. Thanks yet again!

I would not pull the plate off.

It takes me about 20 seconds to twist it over the hex plate. Just unwind it as far as you can, and slowly push and screw it over.

SuperDave Fri Dec 02, 2011 12:12 pm

microflitedude wrote:
cribbs74 wrote:Ok then, I will place an order for one soon. I was mostly concerned about the fit. The babe bee crankcase and black widow look identical so I figured it would work. Never considered the hex drive being an issue. If it is too much of a pain I will pull the crank like SD suggested. Thanks yet again!

I would not pull the plate off.

It takes me about 20 seconds to twist it over the hex plate. Just unwind it as far as you can, and slowly push and screw it over.

SuperDave Fri Dec 02, 2011 12:15 pm

ron:

i did not suggest pulling the crank but the drive plate. look again.

microflitedude Fri Dec 02, 2011 12:23 pm

SuperDave wrote:ron:

i did not suggest pulling the crank but the drive plate. look again.

I think that is what he meant. You remove the driveplate, the crank comes out too.

SuperDave Fri Dec 02, 2011 2:08 pm

andrew wrote:
SuperDave wrote:...............
(Personally I just use one of my digital appendages) I always have it "on hand".

AAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHH!!!!!

Thank you, Andrew, you've made my daY!!!!!!!!!

**Cribbs74** Fri Dec 02, 2011 2:55 pm

SuperDave wrote:ron:

i did not suggest pulling the crank but the drive plate. look again.

Sorry Super Dave, I didn't intend to put words in your mouth. When the drive plate comes off so does the crank. Unless I am doing something wrong.....If so please enlighten me. I appreciate your comments very much I hope I didn't offend you.

SuperDave Fri Dec 02, 2011 5:14 pm

cribbs74 wrote:
SuperDave wrote:ron:

i did not suggest pulling the crank but the drive plate. look again.

Sorry Super Dave, I didn't intend to put words in your mouth. When the drive plate comes off so does the crank. Unless I am doing something wrong.....If so please enlighten me. I appreciate your comments very much I hope I didn't offend you.

Ron:

No offense taken.

The drive plate is the circular, serrated washer- like device pressed onto the snout of the crankshaft. There is no need to remove the crankhaft to remove the drive plate. The drive plate provides a gripping surface for the prop when it is installed.

I remove drive plates by tapping the snout of the crankshaft with a small brass ball-peen hamer while holding the engine by the drive plate above the work surface. A few gentle taps and the drive plate the and crankshaft splines separate.

This described as on a Surestart .049. Don't know on which engine you are trying to do this.

Your pal,

**Cribbs74** Fri Dec 02, 2011 7:49 pm

SuperDave wrote:
cribbs74 wrote:
SuperDave wrote:ron:

i did not suggest pulling the crank but the drive plate. look again.

Sorry Super Dave, I didn't intend to put words in your mouth. When the drive plate comes off so does the crank. Unless I am doing something wrong.....If so please enlighten me. I appreciate your comments very much I hope I didn't offend you.

Ron:

No offense taken.

The drive plate is the circular, serrated washer- like device pressed onto the snout of the crankshaft. There is no need to remove the crankhaft to remove the drive plate. The drive plate provides a gripping surface for the prop when it is installed.

I remove drive plates by tapping the snout of the crankshaft with a small brass ball-peen hamer while holding the engine by the drive plate above the work surface. A few gentle taps and the drive plate the and crankshaft splines separate.

This described as on a Surestart .049. Don't know on which engine you are trying to do this.

Your pal,

Super Dave,

We are on the same page as to what the driveplate is, I think our procedure on removing the driveplate is different. From what you described I assume you have the backplate still attached to the crankcase. So your crank stays in place. I usually have the backplate removed and use an old prop screw threaded into the crank and tap the crank off of the driveplate splines. Anyways looks like there is more than one way to skin a cat! The procedure I described works on babe bee's and thier derivatives as well as tee dees and product engines.

I will slip the spring over the driveplate...... Wink

SuperDave Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:51 pm

Slipping a spring over a hex drive plate won't be as simple as removing the drive plate, attaching the spring to the crankcase the slipping the drive plate back in place.

Wanna know how I know this as a fact?

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