Super mouse build thread

[JPvelo]

Picked up a mouse racer for my son because he likes flying straight, level, and fast.


He's doing the building with the exception of this:


I glassed the bottom of the wing since with one wheel the tips will contact blacktop. I spread 30 minute epoxy on the wing, set it on lite glass and sandwiched between wax paper, two pieces of melamine shelving, put two 35lb dumbells on it and went to bed. Woke up, and about two minutes with the sanding block and it was cleaned up:


Fuselage and cheek block sanded


It's my sons first build so I figure with this under his belt he will be ready to build and fly for the CEF Reed Speed event,

Jim

[roddie]

Looks cool Jim! I'm glad you got this Speed Contest going!

[JPvelo]

Worlds most abbreviated build thread:
Sand
Sand
Sand
Glue
Glue
Glue
Paint
Paint
Paint....

Viola!

Hopefully flying on Saturday, will try and post video.

Jim

[roddie]

Looks GREAT!!!!!    Best of luck! Will you guys be flying the model on 42' lines per chance?

Roddie

[JPvelo]

Looks GREAT!!!!!    Best of luck! Will you guys be flying the model on 42' lines per chance?

Roddie

yep

[Ken Cook]

Jim, that's exactly the same colors and stripes I did on mine. Ken

[JPvelo]

        Jim, that's exactly the same colors and stripes I did on mine. Ken

Ken, you are a gentleman of impeccable taste.

[getback]

 nice looks good hope your son enjoys the hobby , wish mine would get involved / too much computer/games / tv. butttt he is getting much better playing guitar   

[JPvelo]

Here's the fleet that went out today:


And the video, put a slower motor on it for its first time out:


With that motor my Reed speed planes were actualy faster than this plane, I will post video on the Reed Speed thread.

Jim

[Ken Cook]

Jim, this video is very inspiring to my son and I . I really had a good time with these. I see your doing the same. A lot of fun comes with experimenting as a lot can be gained from doing so. I recessed and glued in 1/4oz lead weight in my fuse in the rear of the plane. This made for nice landings. I noticed when the power quit yours like mine had aerodynamics of a brick. The weight really helped that. Nice job though and I'm glad you completed this project. Congrats. Ken

[JPvelo]

Thanks Ken,
This was a fun project that's opened up a whole new avenue of the hobby. Can't wait to put a one of my fast Tee Dees on this thing and really see what it can do.

Jim

[Ken Cook]

I was having a lot of success using the APC 4.5 x 3.5 and also the 4.4x4. The needling characteristics are superior to the wider bladed Cox props and the engine would unload. They can't get enough nitro. One other problem though that you may not be aware of. These planes will roll in on take off. The pilot should have forearm extended looking at the plane and essentially running back immediately when the plane is launched. The plane should be launched outboard wing tip down and yawed outboard slightly and only slightly. Too much and the plane will u-turn. This is the case when you start putting engines on them that can produce. A bit more tip weight helps . In fact I would double it and remove afterwards if needed. I have my gear wire at a 30 deg angle so that in no way the plane can pitch over and roll in. I have one now that I will provide a picture off that I've worked on for quite some time. I feel I'm going to see good results. I truly feel bladder is far superior and if you could provide a close up of your setup, I would like to see it. Ken

[JPvelo]

When I flew my Reed speed contest models yesterday I thought I lost them both on the first launch they came in so bad. I quickly learned to back up fast while whipping the model to maintain line tension. The bladder on this ship is rubber banded to the wing but I am changing it to this:

That's a clipped off safety pin in the back. The knotted surgical tubing is passed through the safety pin from behind and the bladder is then assembled on the plane. After filling pull the slack out the front of the system to behind the safety pin. The loop in the pin has enough tension to keep the system tight but allow the bladder to pull tubing through as it empties. It works far better than I could have hoped. I just wish I could find more of these tiny fuel filters.

Jim

[RknRusty]

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXBNU8&P=8

Brodak also sells these tiny Fourmost filters.

[Cribbs74]

Maybe I am lazy, but I never use filters. Do you guys always use them? I haven't had a failure due to crud in the lines yet, emphasis on yet.

I am sure it's totally possible though. I have flown quite a bit in the last 1-2yrs and I have never had to flush the NV. Most guys I fly with don't mess with them either

Maybe different living areas have different environmental conditions to consider. Do you guys think I am playing with fire?

I like your setup Jim, very clean.

Ron

[RknRusty]

I feel better with a filter, as in one more layer of protection from uncooperative needling. In the Winter where I fly, an open vent will ingest enough particles of dry grass to completely clog a Crap Trap... Wayne's to be precise. A muffler pressure line eliminates that possibility, but I still use a filter between the engine and tank. The filter can break up any small bubbles in addition to catching grass and tiny bits of flocculated castor. I use a filter on the syringe line that I draw the fuel up with too. Just backwash a squirt if I use the same line to fill the tank(which I usually don't). I am of the opinion that filters are especially important on sprinkler venturis like the Tee Dee and my Thunder Tiger. For ages, I never used filters with reedies. I started when I got my first Tee Dee and saw the size of the sprinkler holes.
Rusty

[JPvelo]

Thanks Ron,

My primary reason for running a filter with a bladder setup is to step down to small size fuel tubing. If I run large tubing directly to the fuel inlet of a reedie it floods.

Jim

[andrew]

.................That's a clipped off safety pin in the back. The knotted surgical tubing is passed through the safety pin from behind and the bladder is then assembled on the plane....................

Jim

Very nicely done --- innovation comes to those who think outside of the box.   

[roddie]

Great fun Jim!!!!!! Again... your models look FANTASTIC!!! As far as filters... I have never used them on my reedies... and have been pretty lucky... because I mainly run horseshoe back-plates with external hard-tanks. One stray piece of "grit" finding it's way to the reed/seat and... well... the situation becomes frustrating, because you don't usually know why your engine "all of the sudden" won't run right... after checking all the other obvious external possibilities.

Running a "screenless" high-flow back-plate creates an even higher risk of sucking-in a pc. of grit that may foul the reed.

Roddie

[Cribbs74]

Thanks Ron,

My primary reason for running a filter with a bladder setup is to step down to small size fuel tubing. If I run large tubing directly to the fuel inlet of a reedie it floods.

Jim

Jim,

I've solved that problem by using these. However, I am able to stretch that tiny tubing over the style you use with some effort.

[JPvelo]

Had this plane out today with a stronger motor, APC 4.75x4, and 35%. Clocked it at just over 73mph. Next up is a bored out Venturi and a Nelson plug. Shooting for 80mph.

Jim

[Cribbs74]

Man, those are good numbers Jim. I am getting a little worried!

[Ken Cook]

Jim, I know this is all fun, but you really should document your times in a composition book. I was doing the same and your numbers are close to mine. What looks sometimes to be really really fast is mediocre. If you do some prop tweaking and plug changing like you suggested, you might surprise yourself. If you document everything, this will always give you a basis to go back to if things aren't working out. Keep up the good work, I love the speed stuff. Ken

[Mark Boesen]

Ditto what Ken sez, also keep track of your RPM, what different props do, engine changes, etc.

[Paulgibeault]

Hi Jim,

One thing often overlooked on 1/2A's is the LEADOUT POSITION. Placed too far forward & the model will always be loose on takeoff. What to do? Hang the model by the leadouts & aim for 2 degrees nose down (or more). THAT will help keep your model from coming loose on the lines on takeoff. Sub rudders (rudder on the bottom) also help a GREAT DEAL to keep the model out on the lines. Stepping back on takeoff is ALWAYS a good measure as you've said, but those other 2 factors make up for a lot.
Some wing tip weight is useful to balance out 1/2 the weight of the lines but the LEADOUT POSITION is really the key. Good Luck!

Cheers, Paul

p.s By the way don't overlook L/H props which REALLY solve most all loose line on takeoff problems.

When I flew my Reed speed contest models yesterday I thought I lost them both on the first launch they came in so bad. I quickly learned to back up fast while whipping the model to maintain line tension.
Jim

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