Super Clown build thread (Maiden Report)

[Cribbs74]

Control Line Classics version.

I had some problems with the cuts on this one, but I fixed it. I was even contacted by the previous owner of CLC (Tony Drago) who explained why the problems existed and even offered to buy me a Brodak replacement, I declined.

I am going with a Fox .35, but I think a .19-.29 would be more suitable at 355 squares. it will have flaps and be finished out in black and lime green.

Ron

[Kim]

Looks great! No spars on a plane this size?

[Cribbs74]

Nope!


The CLC kit is akin to the original PDQ kit in that it has a solid LE/TE and no spar.

The strength is in the LE. I have seen it before. The Bean is built that way as is the Baby Clown.

Ron

[jhaye]

Thats gonna be a nice plane Ron, I think I might have to build a kit one of these days. I'm kinda burned out on scratch building at the moment, but the Mathis stuka's only half way done. I'm aiming to have it done and be able to fly it in during the August contest here in Albuquerque. Keep the pic's coming.

Jim Hayes

[Godsey3.0]

Looks nice.

RR

[Cribbs74]

Thanks guys,

The lines really speak to me for some reason. I like short chubby planes for some reason.

[Cribbs74]

Thats gonna be a nice plane Ron, I think I might have to build a kit one of these days. I'm kinda burned out on scratch building at the moment, but the Mathis stuka's only half way done. I'm aiming to have it done and be able to fly it in during the August contest here in Albuquerque. Keep the pic's coming.

Jim Hayes

Will do Jim!

If you want to scratch this one I can have the plans copied.

Ron

[Cribbs74]

Lots of sanding and I installed the control system this evening. Nothing spectacular just the usual stuff. This kit has you install the plywood bellcrank mount proceeded by 2 1/4" balsa bearers. I used Epoxy to slap it all together. Yes I will shrinkwrap the crimp tubes.

Ron

[duke.johnson]

Thanks guys,

The lines really speak to me for some reason. I like short chubby planes for some reason.

Some guys like their women that way too.

[RknRusty]

I always worry about that light rib holding all of the abuse it takes from the lines. I've gone so far as to use harder balsa for that outer rib and also inserted a brace to pass the load to the next rib too. Maybe overkill but it makes me feel better.

[Ken Cook]

I would like to make a suggestion here. This would be in regards to the space directly in between the two center ribs. It may be 1/2" or 3/8". Somewhat difficult to tell from the picture. This type of construction is similar to the Shoestring and other planes. When wings are built like this on profiles, I feel this practice leads to the dreaded vibration problems that some experience with the engine run. At this stage, I would choose some lightweight balsa and make a rib with the grain running vertically.This can be done by gluing 2-3 pieces together and slipping it in between and into that center bay. Draw around the rib using the kit rib as a template. Remove and cut to the line and sand. Install and glue and that rib will insure a very strong foundation for the sheeting which in turn has the fuse glued to it. Ken

[Cribbs74]

Rusty,

I may decide to brace it. I did on my Ring, wood selection is good on this one.

Ken, I will use the fuse wing cutout to fill that gap.

Ron

[OVERLORD]

I think the extra bracing to the next rib is not a luxury and is important as the bellcrank area is not sheeted and is not part of a box section. Below a picture of a drawing showing a similar brace. The 1/4" bellcrank mount bearers are glued lengthwise against the ribs to give them stiffness.

Lieven

[Cribbs74]

Lieven,

The bellcrank will be sheeted, just haven't got that far yet.

Ron

[RknRusty]

I would like to make a suggestion here. This would be in regards to the space directly in between the two center ribs. It may be 1/2" or 3/8". Somewhat difficult to tell from the picture. This type of construction is similar to the Shoestring and other planes. When wings are built like this on profiles, I feel this practice leads to the dreaded vibration problems that some experience with the engine run. At this stage, I would choose some lightweight balsa and make a rib with the grain running vertically.This can be done by gluing 2-3 pieces together and slipping it in between and into that center bay. Draw around the rib using the kit rib as a template. Remove and cut to the line and sand. Install and glue and that rib will insure a very strong foundation for the sheeting which in turn has the fuse glued to it. Ken

Now I see what you were telling me about the Shoestring. I didn't open up the center sheeting so I couldn't see it at the time. Now I get it. I'll file that info away for future builds. Thanks for the tip.

[jhaye]

Seems that a lot of the older CL plans called for a single piece of plywood for a bellcrank mount. The Dick Mathis Stuka that I am building now is from 1948 and it calls for a single plywood piece between the two ribs. I chose to add another piece and I floated the bellcrank between the two. Seems much stronger that way. I also use small strips of balsa to boaster the joints when I glue the plywood to the ribs. My worst worry is that this area will give way during flight. I'm lucky I have a guy here in Albuquerque that has been building and flying CL for over 40 yrs and he keeps and eye on me when I'm building. He's really showed me a lot of neat ways to do some of this stuff.

Jim Hayes

[RknRusty]

I don't recall what I drew the lines for, but you get the picture. Number 4 is busted too. See the control rod sticking out the other side.

After I started using my wing-trap bathmat stooge I started bracing them. It only takes a light pull to free it, but still, it makes me feel better. This happened in the middle of a loop when the engine sputtered and the lines went slack and I reached out with my left hand and grabbed a handful of line to try to save it.

It was the end of the prior life of the Lil' Jumpin' Bean before it morphed into the larger winged Refried Bean in my avatar.

[GUS THE I.A.]

Just had a thought from one of Ron's bellcrank pictures...The sheeting on the center section, grain, seems to be parallel to the fuselage. Is that correct? Maybe I'm seeing it wrong, or something.

[RknRusty]

I don't see a picture of Ron's with sheeting installed. In one of my pictures above the sheeting is running parallel to the fuse. That picture is the Baby Flite Streak. I guess that's the way it was cut for the kit. I made my sheeting for my Li'l Satan run the other way. It's easier to bend and form that way. I can see arguments for either direction being better.

EDIT: Looks like the bean is that way too.

[GUS THE I.A.]

Oops, it isn't on Ron's. Sorry! Told ya I wasn't seeing something right!

[Ken Cook]

Many of my built up combat wings for 1/2A used a 1/2" balsa center rib, or a 1/4" bass center rib. Rather than have the bellcrank between to (technically unsupported ribs) the center rib was carefully slotted to accept the bellcrank platform which was pinned with 1/8" dowels through the assembly. That installation could be done with virtually any plane. Ken

[RknRusty]

Another one to file away for future reference.
Seems like most of these good ideas make so much sense they'd be no-brainers, yet obviously they aren't common practices of kit makers and amateur builders.

[Cribbs74]

Ok,

I filled it in. On to sheeting! Thank Ken.

Ron

[RknRusty]

Looks solid. Nice convenient piece of leftover scrap in the kit.

[Cribbs74]

Looks solid. Nice convenient piece of leftover scrap in the kit.

Yeah, this fuse did not have the wing cutout in it so I had to do it myself. The leftover piece came in handy.

Ron

[Sponsored content]