COX engine throttles

It is nearly identical to a COX TeeDee 051,049 or 020 but much much smaller, I need a microscope or a very large magnifying glass to see into the needle valve`s hole, that needle valve body is a great conversation piece, 1 of the most rare COX parts lol

Hey, Jaspur, did you ever find a use for those Fine thread NVs in the red backplates? I'm looking for ideas on how to maybe make some remote NVs for my Norvels, wondering if you came up with any ideas I could use.

I sure do have a plan for them,never got that proect rolling yet, do you need 1 of them?

I`m sure its possible to use one of the cox pieces to make a remote nv,I will have to look up an engine that uses a remote nva to see how it would transfer to go onto a norvel,I still have a few norvels but I prefer my COX and havn`t messed with the norvels in a long time.

Should simply be remove a lot of the excess plastic to make it more the size of a cox teedee nvb, and install it somewhere in the fuel line of the norvel and depending on the model you are putting the engine into you could mount the remote nva in all sorts of configurations;or simply mount it to the engine like the big boy engines with remote nva`s

Jaspur_x wrote:I sure do have a plan for them,never got that proect rolling yet, do you need 1 of them?...

Nah, put 'em to good use. JPvelo gave me two valves and a needle. I can get more from Texastimers.com if I need to.

I`m thinking of a project that rhymes with a custom peewee020 throttled of course, now what part could I add to a peewee020 that needs a fine threaded nva???

I have always wondered how much the cylinder position in relation to the crank has an effect on running, mine is not perfectly square with the crank... but runs like a dream,

Here pictured is my most recent attempt at a throttle, finished it up today, will test it in the next few days.. still have to make a control horn, and tweak the fit a bit more... getting much better at cutting the halves out, the fit is very good, will see how it works, as one can see in the pic im missing the shoulder pieces... will fab those up soon. Also as one can see i flipped the needle valve over, but a little more grinding in key areas and it should fit properly Im running the 020 prop slightly cut down, runs great!







Roger's original patent... http://www.google.com/patents?id=P5IQAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA6&source=gbs_selected_pages&cad=3#v=onepage&q&f=false

I can`t get working out your pics figurd out ,I told yo I`m behind on tech. Anyway, from what I can see in your pics it looks like you are onto something, this is the first time I got a good look at the microflite pet design. If you keep at it you`ll get it figurd I`d bet.
I`m not sure where you can scource the brass sheet you`ll need,maybe check lowes, home inprovement type places, blacksmith shops, heating/plumbing shops,welding/fab shops maybe a decent old school hardware store , or your local hobby shop.

Hobby Lobby the craft store has the brass sheet. Tinplate steel salvaged from metal cans (I save olive oil and Coleman fuel cans for this) should also be suitable, if somewhat on the thick side. Stovepipe is another option, but even thicker than the cans.

The design is fairly simple and could be made in paper or card, unrolled, then traced onto the metal.

Neat idea, I might have to make one as an experiment.

Phil

I went ahead and re-uploaded the pics using a different hosting site.


I get K&S sheets at my local hobby shop, but they dont have a good selection, this stuff here looks to be the right thickness, i have to redo one side tomorrow, the bends were not very good, so as can be seen in the pics the slots are the same size as the exhaust port bridge, id like to have them smaller, making a new half it should be tighter.


What i do is... i copied the pic of the side piece's from the pdf. then opened it in paint, and saved it as a jpeg, then used the the page setup option when printing to minimize it, after getting it close, i cut the paper pattern and check to see if its a tight fit between, the top cooling fin and the lip on the cylinder, this can take a few attempts, i tried 25%,26%27% and settled on 28%, then print a bunch of copies at that size... sorry Jaspur a bit complicated



Cut them into sections and use a glue stick or white glue to attach to brass, let dry.

then i use a tiny center punch, to very carefully punch in the middle of where the holes are going to be, be very careful, it has to be perfect, otherwise the holes on the two halves wont align properly.

I take it to my drill press and drill out the holes, 2mm on this version, but should be 1.5mm, i did not have any M1.5 bolts, so used the M2's, the bottom nuts all had to be ground down to half their size, otherwise they hit the cylinder.

Cutting and bending can be a pain in the @ss, for the top part i will score with a #11 blade, the rest cut by a very good old pair of scissors, then the paper and glue can be removed under hot water, to get perfect sharp bends, score the area before bending... once done i use jeweler files and a dremel to get the final shape

That is how i make mine... but im sure there are other methods depending on the tools one has.

I will go ahead and upload the pic for the side plates... make it easier on the technologically challenged

This is the unaltered scan from the pdf...[img][/img]

Here are the pics of the complete construction.

Very nice work, MX.

Thanks,, this is only a rough version, want to aquire some brass M1.5 bolts, washers, and nuts, to make this thing properly, but for now it will serve its purpose as a prototype.

Pictured is a new side piece and shoulder pieces ready to be carefully cut out

Some advice if trying this...

Make sure you center punch the holes dead center or very close to it, use a lupe if need be, this has caused me alot of headache, so i really take my time. I use a 3mm steel rod (old rc heli mainshaft) sharpened to a point on a dremel, i find i have to resharpen it constantly as the steel is soft, otherwise it looses its precision.

Make sure the drill bit is clean before going to the next hole, pieces of brass stuck in the channel of the bit, will make larger holes.

Score the bend lines, then curve the piece over (i use an Xacto aluminum handle as it appears to be the same diameter as the cylinder) use what you have, then using flat jawed pliers bend the sides at the score lines, if done properly this makes an almost perfect piece with very little tweaking to do afterwards.

And when working with the paper templates... make sure you dont have sweaty hands as it smudges (common sense goes a long way)

Just trying to help those attempting this and avoid all the little hiccups.

Roger was a good guy with a good product, but the way the product was introduced, he basically shot himself in the foot and lost alot of customers, i remember the MF thread on rcu, that was something... i got him on the phone once back in 2008, normally it was a woman answering the phone... his wife i think???
The poor guy passed away last year RIP, and only a handful of these ever made in into peoples hands.

mx862 wrote:
Roger was a good guy with a good product, but the way the product was introduced, he basically shot himself in the foot and lost alot of customers, i remember the MF thread on rcu, that was something.........

That was the most contentious thread I have ever read, before or since. His refusal or inability to answer any straight forward question ended up with him being labeled a charlatan or snake oil salesman. The qualities of his product, good or bad, ended up being buried in his interaction with the RCU members. Yes, he definitely shot himself in the foot.

A few years ago we sold him a quantity of 049 engines as he was planning to develop a throttle for them. After not hearing anything for a year, we had our own developped.

He seemed like a real nice guy on the phone and he had some good ideas.

Tested the throttle today with mixed results, the engine was very touchy and finicky with it , runs fine without it, slight rmp change was noticed but not what i would call a working throttle, it was very quiet though...

was studying the patent and the handful of pics that exist of the MF throttle yesterday and noticed something that i haven't before, the two halves are made of very thin brass, twice as thin as what i used if not more, with shoulder pieces being much thicker to support the thin halves, the gap between the 2 halves appear to be quite a bit smaller than the exhaust bridge, smaller than the gap on mine.

There are 2 different versions of the throttle in the patent document, the latter being the production version, exhaust gaps vary, with the smallest on the production version.

I will order up various sheets of brass and the proper micro brass hardware.. i think this just might work, My first version of the throttle was a much simplified design, with only 2 bolts holding the halves together, that version had zero rpm change... so overall im pleased with the progress.

I have other ideas for throttle design, but will explore this one thoroughly, as believe it or not its the simplest, i dont have a lathe anymore so machining one is out.

Will keep at it

If you were closer I would spot you some tarnished brass shim stock. I have extra from making a few pop pop boat motors. I got some 001, and 003 inches, maybe a couple other sizes.

You know, PM me an address, I can cut a couple pieces off the rolls and put two stamps on an envelope, and we hope it gets there without wrinkles.

Phil

Thanks For the offer Phil, i really appreciate it, but i think i will check out the local model rail road shops, i think they carry brass sheets in various thickness, probably have the hardware too, im going to be leaving for a week on work related business, but when im back i will continue with the project.

I got a plane halfway built and i need a throttled 010.

Will keep updating..

Anyone else working on a 010 throttle please post your ideas.

BTW if anyone still wants to visit the old site... use the wayback machine http://archive.org/web/web.php
One good pic of the engine and throttle, the other good pic in in an rcu thread in a post by AndyW where he got the engine from Roger... which i cannot seem to find...


Arthur.

The trip to the model train shop payed off, now i have everything i need.

When i return from my trip, i will build a proper one.

arthur

here is a better copy of the pic in my profile.

i have just dug out the second version, and will attempt to fit it up tomorrow....
unfortunately the only 010 i have is currently mounted in my tether car... see thread in models section.

but it need to come out for a good clean before the car is finished anyway.



cheers
a

pkrankow wrote:If you were closer I would spot you some tarnished brass shim stock. I have extra from making a few pop pop boat motors. I got some 001, and 003 inches, maybe a couple other sizes.

You know, PM me an address, I can cut a couple pieces off the rolls and put two stamps on an envelope, and we hope it gets there without wrinkles.

Phil

Hey phil
Funny how people share interests made a pop pop boat for my little girl couple of months go used tin cans etc turned out ok not a scale model more a fun one for
Lttleun she loves it next time round will do a proper one got some advice from bill Canada (on utube ) he's the man who can in pop pops or put puts however u pronounce very nice bloke very helpful