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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:51 pm

Thanks Bob,

I liked the teflon tape idea!
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Post  RknRusty Mon Dec 17, 2012 11:19 am

I'm glad it's back in the air. Still looks nice too.

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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Dec 17, 2012 12:52 pm

Thanks Rusty,

I am trying hard to make it a beater.
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Post  RknRusty Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:33 pm

cribbs74 wrote:Thanks Rusty,

I am trying hard to make it a beater.
Ron, does it seem like it flies with more authority now that it's been reworked? Not coming into the circle on you like it used to?

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:02 am

RknRusty wrote:
cribbs74 wrote:Thanks Rusty,

I am trying hard to make it a beater.
Ron, does it seem like it flies with more authority now that it's been reworked? Not coming into the circle on you like it used to?

Yes, more tension on the lines for sure, it is not coming in at all. I do think it could use a touch more speed as it really slows down during manouvers.

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Post  RknRusty Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:33 am

Looks like you have a 6" prop in the picture. That size makes my Black Widow really chug and labor in the loops, which I learned with my Bean. If that's the case, a shorter prop will give it a nice boost. Every engine is a little different, but a 5.25x3 is probably about right for it. You could try a 5.5 too. At one time I declared that to be my favorite stunt prop, but even it bogged some in the loops, but still an improvement. I tried a Cox 5x4 and it flew like a rocket but the loops got way too wide for good stunts. If you're using black Cox props balance them as good as you can, because that has a big effect on the RPMs. At least balance the blades. I find the hubs almost impossible to balance on those but that isn't so critical. I think rounding the tips makes them more efficient too. Ken has done a lot of experimenting with props and can correct me if I'm mistaken.

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:26 am

Rusty,

That is a 6x3 cut down to 5.5 I may take another 1/4" off that prop and see how it goes. I have some MA 6x3 that I could cut down, I only have a handful of those and they tend to break more than the Cox. I have been rounding the tips though.

Maybe I just need to do some test runs and see what works best for me. Thanks for the help.

Ron
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Post  RknRusty Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:50 am

Yeah, every plane and engine is a little different. You could put a high compression head on the BW too. Whenever I use Bernie and Matt's clamp and drop-in heads, I use at least 3 shims. I recommend test running the shim combinations with those before you go fly, because adding/removing one can make a noticeable difference. I've used up to five, but usually three is about right in my environment(I haven't used one in cold weather). I like the Cox #1702 head with two shims the best with GPB 24% fuel.

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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:37 am

Hey yeah,

Hadn't thought of that. I'll tell you one thing I will be using a 6x3 on the Baby Clown. That thing went vertical right off the stooge and pulled like something I have never experienced. I haven't tried it since.
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Post  RknRusty Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:55 am

cribbs74 wrote:Hey yeah,

Hadn't thought of that. I'll tell you one thing I will be using a 6x3 on the Baby Clown. That thing went vertical right off the stooge and pulled like something I have never experienced. I haven't tried it since.
Good idea. The Tee Dee will still bog some in the loops, but with 35' of line it's better to be careful until you have a real good feel for it. After a while speed won't bother you so much and you can put a 5.5" on it. I highly recommend a MA after you get past the frequent prop breaking opportunities, because you'll get better RPMs out of it. I went down to a 5.25" prop on the BFS last weekend. I don't think it's as fast in the flats, but I was doing wingovers like crazy. And once I had it doing about 3 tiny loops standing on the lines straight overhead before completing the arc. I was amazed, that's a new trick for me. I don't think it would have done that with a bigger prop.

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