Is this a Black Widow or an imposter??

That is a Black Widow. Because of its "stepped" cylinder, it could even be from 1973!

A Texaco would have a red 8cc (or 5cc if Texaco Jr.) non-stunt tank (meaning it doesn't have the cross-vent tubes through the tank) with a gray or black plastic backplate. It would also have a non-SPI, twin bypass, single boost flute on each bypass, slit exhaust cylinder. The crankcase would be either unanodized or black and it would have a thick zero-drag (or hex with no snap starter attached, only seen on the early Texaco's) driveplate.

I'm 100% sure you have a Black Widow there.

Hi,

You beauty!! fantastic!! look what I paid for it?

Cheers!
Mr G

Yes, that is a very good price for a good looking early Black Widow.

Hi Admin,

Thanks very much for your fast response!

Cheers!
Mr G

coxxoc wrote: Hi Admin,

Thanks very much for your fast response!

Cheers!
Mr G

Very Nice engine, as is the Texaco.

Hope it works...looks are skin deep. But for $19 ..you did good.

Now get a shiny new zero drag snap starter and a red rubber spinner.

http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-snap-starter-spring-no-drag.html

The the original spinners are not available anymore, but this will work -

http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-pt-19-rubber-spinner.html

Now comes the challenge of putting the engine to work. Recommend running the engine on a test stand to familiarize yourself with how it operates correcting any problems that might be encountered with the Trouble-shooting Guides from Cox Interantional (which see).

Personally I have five BW's that I either bought new or were given me in more recent years. They a good performers in any application be it CL, RC or FF. Given care they can perform well for a considerable number of years.

Enjoy!

It's a good idea to tear it down and clean the old brown castor off the crankshaft bearings and oil groove, clear out the Needle valve, etc. before cranking. It's just as important to do that if you ever buy a NIB engine that has never been run.
If you don't want to do that, at least work some fuel down its nose to wet the crankshaft first(hoping the groove isn't clogged). And squirt some fuel in the exhaust and flip it a bunch of times, hopefully getting the ball socket and internals wet.

If you have a NIB Engine and do not plan on running it, leave the engine alone..maybe a drop or two of after run oil..but Ive been told just leave new engines alone until you plan on running them. Then Fuel it up and break in the engine according to manufacturer recommendations! Im kind of not understanding what your advising to do with a new engine Rusty.??

ZACATTACK wrote:If you have a NIB Engine and do not plan on running it, leave the engine alone..maybe a drop or two of after run oil..but Ive been told just leave new engines alone until you plan on running them. Then Fuel it up and break in the engine according to manufacturer recommendations! Im kind of not understanding what your advising to do with a new engine Rusty.??

New engines are over 10 yrs old unless the are from CI or Exmodel. So Rusty recommends this as the factory oil turns to glue when left sitting.

Also it's a good idea to open them up to get rid of any machining swarf that may be present.

cribbs74 wrote:

ZACATTACK wrote:If you have a NIB Engine and do not plan on running it, leave the engine alone..maybe a drop or two of after run oil..but Ive been told just leave new engines alone until you plan on running them. Then Fuel it up and break in the engine according to manufacturer recommendations! Im kind of not understanding what your advising to do with a new engine Rusty.??

Also it's a good idea to open them up to get rid of any machining swarf that may be present.

This is especially true for the newer SureStart engines. I have opened up new ones and found a good bit of metal shavings that would have ruined the engine.

cribbs74 wrote:

ZACATTACK wrote:If you have a NIB Engine and do not plan on running it, leave the engine alone..maybe a drop or two of after run oil..but Ive been told just leave new engines alone until you plan on running them. Then Fuel it up and break in the engine according to manufacturer recommendations! Im kind of not understanding what your advising to do with a new engine Rusty.??

New engines are over 10 yrs old unless the are from CI or Exmodel. So Rusty recommends this as the factory oil turns to glue when left sitting.

Also it's a good idea to open them up to get rid of any machining swarf that may be present.

Yes, that.

microflitedude wrote:

cribbs74 wrote:

ZACATTACK wrote:If you have a NIB Engine and do not plan on running it, leave the engine alone..maybe a drop or two of after run oil..but Ive been told just leave new engines alone until you plan on running them. Then Fuel it up and break in the engine according to manufacturer recommendations! Im kind of not understanding what your advising to do with a new engine Rusty.??

Also it's a good idea to open them up to get rid of any machining swarf that may be present.

This is especially true for the newer SureStart engines. I have opened up new ones and found a good bit of metal shavings that would have ruined the engine.

And that too. Later Surestarts are famous for loose ball sockets and metal shavings. That will fry a new glow plug, if nothing else.

I bought two early 1990s NIB Black Widows last May. The oil inside had congealed to the point that, had I cranked either of them, no fresh lube would have filled the oil groove in the crank tube before the bearing races would have been hopelessly galled. Everything inside was coated with gum, including the pickup spring. Just sayin.

I'm into Learning...So I just purchased 3 .15 engines..What procedures do you guys recommend??? Should I open these up to inspect...2 of them are not going to be air born.?? Shavings..metal fragments...assembly oil turning into glue..WoW ....Im shocked!! How do you clean these out... De natured Isopropal ??

ZACATTACK wrote:I'm into Learning...So I just purchased 3 .15 engines..What procedures do you guys recommend??? Should I open these up to inspect...2 of them are not going to be air born.?? Shavings..metal fragments...assembly oil turning into glue..WoW ....Im shocked!! How do you clean these out... De natured Isopropal ??

This a well-covered topic, things just get buried.

http://coxengineforum.forumakers.com/t1460-how-to-clean?highlight=clean+engines

microflitedude wrote:

ZACATTACK wrote:I'm into Learning...So I just purchased 3 .15 engines..What procedures do you guys recommend??? Should I open these up to inspect...2 of them are not going to be air born.?? Shavings..metal fragments...assembly oil turning into glue..WoW ....Im shocked!! How do you clean these out... De natured Isopropal ??

This a well-covered topic, things just get buried.

http://coxengineforum.forumakers.com/t1460-how-to-clean?highlight=clean+engines

Yes that is a great topic!

I always take apart and clean any engine I get, new or used. If it is new in the box, I'm mostly after getting the old dried oil, dust and any metal shavings out. I have only seen the metal shavings in SureStarts. I carefully disassemble the engine and clean it up with 91% isopropyl alcohol and wipe it down with paper towels. I check the gaskets, they are usually alright, maybe if the engine is old enough, the venturi gasket has gone hard. I then oil the crank and reassemble the engine then oil the piston and turn it over a few times. For the used engines, I carefully disassemble it completely. I sometimes have to heat up or soak parts before they will come loose such as a cylinder on a 1962 babe bee that has never been removed. I then let the parts sit in a jar of isopropyl alcohol for awhile and then pull them out to wipe the dirt and baked on oil off. For the baked on stuff that just won't come off, I hit it with some Hoppes #9. Then I inspect the parts for wear or damage (such as a piston that looks like someone stuck a screwdriver into the top of the cylinder and pounded down on it to loosen it up). I replace any part that I don't think will do well enough. I reset the piston if it needs resetting. I replace all the gaskets. Inspect the reed to see if it will still do, most of the time the reeds are fine. However, if it is a mylar reed, those are usually always domed and warped, may work but they always get replaced. The fuel pick-up tube is usually flushed out and left alone unless it is cracked, loose or the blockage in it won't come loose. The needle assembly is flushed out by forcing alcohol though it with a syringe. Once everything is cleaned up and perhaps some parts replaced, I reassemble the engine and oil it up.

Sounds about like what I do. One difference is, I keep paper towels away from the fuel tank and needle valve. They leave a lot of fibers you'll see if you look under a magnifying glass. And the orifices are tiny enough for that to potentially get sucked up and stuck, though it would probably clear itself soon. I use lint free T-shirt rags from the paint section at Lowes. Brake parts cleaner is like magic for flushing oil and gunk out of everywhere. I blast it through the NV as well.

Hey microflitedude, and I`ll buy a pack of cox .049 Thimble Drome Series props.
Grey 4.5 x 4 Competion Series for my .049 Black Widow right?

Mr G