RR1 engines

I guess this answers some of my questions.

http://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/cox_bees.htm

RR1 .049 (0.8 cm³)
Manufactured in 1957-1965 (#390)

At first glance, the RR1 looks like a fancy Golden Bee with small groves on the blue anodized tank and on the nose of the crankcase. The disassembly reveals the twin bypass cylinder and the rear rotary valve intake, which was used instead of the reed valve, typical for the Bee type engines. As you can see on the photo, there was no spring starter. Production ended in 1965 and later engine designs reverted again to the simpler and cheaper reed valve induction system.
During the first two years of production these engines came with a silver crankcase like the first sample shown (1957-1958). Later, the crankcase was anodized yellow which contrasts nicely with the dark blue tank.

The silver one is the early model.

The gold anodized engine block came along later and the natural finish is the real 56-57 model I believe.

Some of the pros will chime in and fix things I hope.

Here is my RR1

Aside from the info on the website above, when taking mine apart, I did notice that it has a different piston, as it has no copper.

I remember (for what little bit my memory is worth) seeing a picture of an all silver one withOUT the grooves in the crankshaft. I think it was a very early model.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/049Collectors/photos/album/1761585426/pic/list?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

Mark Boesen wrote:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/049Collectors/photos/album/1761585426/pic/list?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

Please post info thereof I was banned when I defended myself for Slander.

I'm not fond of Yahoo groups myself. I'm on the ShopSmith 10-ER group, but it's just a pain since it is more of a email group instead of a forum.

WingingIt74 wrote:I'm not fond of Yahoo groups myself. I'm on the ShopSmith 10-ER group, but it's just a pain since it is more of a email group instead of a forum.

Ditto that. The registration turned out to be a huge maze for me, I never got through it.

I agree I finally had to turn off email notifications when i realized there were 9265 emails in my box over 2 years

I've been a member over at 049 collectors for a couple
of years and enjoy it alot. Tons of good info and data.
Paul Gibeault's origional mouse motor build is there, and
Mark Boesen hosted the first tach race there in 2009.
Also the gallery is GINORMUS!
Bob

Well I don't post much but I am a member and am not sure if what I posted was in the correct way
There is lots of knowledge there though!

dckrsn wrote:I've been a member over at 049 collectors for a couple
of years and enjoy it alot. Tons of good info and data.
Paul Gibeault's origional mouse motor build is there, and
Mark Boesen hosted the first tach race there in 2009.
Also the gallery is GINORMUS!
Bob

I just get the digest once a day instead of every topic instantly. It cuts down on the mail load.

I had both versions in my hands a few years ago but they were torn up pretty bad. Set them dpwn and old timer grabed them. Oh well had no use for them anyway. Seller had box full of Cox engines but very bad shape. I passed on all of them. This was before Cox vendors started to sell products.

Dan,

The one that got away.......... Oh well. I bet any parts off an RR1 would be highly valuable.

The funny thing about the RR1 is that it performs as well as the rest of the bees yet it is still highly prized.

I would like to own one except like you said, what would I do with it?

Were any RR1 engines with a muffler, ever sold by Cox?

No. not even. The first muffler was the '66 Quiet Zone .049, Thimble-Drome did made a muffler type speed control for the Space Bug but i don't know how quiet it got and it was an add on.

Mark Boesen wrote:

RknRusty wrote:Were any RR1 engines with a muffler, ever sold by Cox?

No. not even. The first muffler was the '66 Quiet Zone .049, Thimble-Drome did made a muffler type speed control for the Space Bug but i don't know how quiet it got and it was an add on.

The reason I ask is because our member Mudhen sent me his beautiful newly rebuilt RR1, with a muffler, so I can give it some flying time as part of its break-in. He mentioned it got so hot during some bench tests that he couldn't touch the fuel tank after a run, and he thought the fuel was boiling. And he found it was getting so hot only when the fuel had any less than 20% oil. I am not sure, but I suspect he may have been using 17% castor Glowplugboy. I don't want to return a RR1 shaped piece of slag to him, and I wondered if the muffler was the reason for the excessive heat. It will probably run cooler in the air, but I am going to bench run it first to get the hang of the complicated starting procedure.

• Open the needle 3 1/2.
  
• Fill the tank
  
• Open the muffler, put 3 or 4 drops into the chamber. Then flip the prop to work in the prime.
  
• Then put 10 -12 drops into the chamber, but don't work it in.
  
• Close the muffler and fire it up.
  
• Once the engine is running, open the muffler, then tune to peak rpm.
  
• Try to limit the amount of time the engine runs with the muffler closed, especially at high rpm.

And then this next note from Mudhen:

If the engine begins to surge, or is difficult to needle, that means the cylinder/piston has become contaminated. It does not need to be disassembled. Just remove the glowhead. Then soak a cotton swab with alcohol and clean the cylinder wall. Also clean the piston. This can be done by soaking a toothbrush in rubbing alcohol and cleaning it through the exhaust ports. These steps will restore performance. I hope you like the engine.

I have spiked a fresh new bottle of GPB with enough castor to bring it up to 20% oil. It runs good in my engines, and the extra oil is evident in the exhaust goo.
I'm just concerned because this weekend I'm going to mount it and run it in the shop. Any advice would be appreciated.

I bet it will run quite a bit cooler once it is in the air. A cylinder muffler like that one is like a huge blanket for heat. I would get the needle to where the motor just breaks into a slightly clean 2 stroke sound with a bit of rich waver to the tone, then launch it. As the tank flys out (emptys), I bet it will pick up rpms and clean up.

Check your balance before flight. I am willing to bet that a RR1 with a muffler is a bit heavier than what you are use to flying. That way Mud gets his motor back and you get your plane back,,in one piece as they say.

Stuff you already know, but it never hurts to see it again.

Cant wait for the vid Rusty.

The rotating valve is a problematic area, they are aluminium against aluminium I believe. If the crank-case and tank gets warm I bet it comes from the rotating valve.

I only have a modern version and there it is teflon against aluminium.

Use plenty of oil (you can use 25% for running in) and leave the muffler off until you get to know the engine and it has been run in, after that you can test with different mufflers and props.

Valve is steel

...............mine is the later gold version that someone tried to convert to a stunter by replacing the tank vent tubes and replacing with pop rivets,then installing the stunt backplate......................cant decide to sel it or return it to original style parts.....I may have paid too much and havnt fired it up yet even,just a good cleaning and look see so far