COX 010 TeeDee with RC carb, courtesy sosam 117

balogh wrote:Yes Mike a plastic washer that endures the abrasion when the nut is spanned would do..but the teflon ribbon is good enough.

robot797 wrote:oh wow those are some great results

davidll1984 wrote:Sosam117 aka Mike Superb work making such a small piece I imagine that drilling the hole for the spray bar was not easy. It Seems very effective This would be perfect for my micro tigremoth project

Drilling that small hole for the spray bar "IS" the hardest part of any of the Tee Dee carburetors, as you have to get the location just right.
The drill size I have to use is a number 76 for the Tee Dee .010 carb. Center drill size .020
It is a 50/50 chance of either breaking the drill or drilling the hole.

The Tee Dee .020 drill size is # 68 which is the .031 center drill.
The Tee Dee .049/.051 drill size is #56 which is the .047 center drill.

I have a center drill set that I use for starting the drilling on the initial hole.
The center drill number is the triple zero size and that special drill costs about $12.00.

Of course, I can only find that size (diameter .020") in a set and the set costs me about $63.00 before shipping.





Reason I purchased the set is that I am then able to start the hole for the spray bar location correctly on the .010 / .020 / and the .049~.051 using the correct size center drill to start the hole without the finished drill walking.

sosam117 wrote:I have tried to do a silencer for the .010 but it just doesn't work out very well.




The 1st problem is the welding of the thin-walled tubing to the collector.
I have a Map gas torch and by the time I have the aluminum parts heated up enough to insert the aluminum rod to try to weld the parts together, my parts (thin wall tubing) melt down.
Now "if" I had a TIG welder available to me, and it only heats up a very small area, I could get the parts welded together.
I've tried thicker tubing but then the exhaust diameter is less than 3mm. I like it to be as big as possible?

Anyway, the "one" I have on my engine is the only one that I think is good enough (for my quality standards) that made it after countless tries.
And it seemed to bring down the RPM a bit.
Probably like balogh says about the Tee Dee being a SPI.
On mine, when throttling down it stops most of the time. SPI on this engine causing the problem?

That is why I have not been posting and selling the .010 silencer.
Also, it is more of an oil collector than a silencer.

robot797 wrote:that is just awsome

to bad its to much work to build them

ps is my throttle still on hold?

davidll1984 wrote:
I opted for a less expensive solution than welding the parts my collector is built like cox did for their model the tube is insert insert fit tight And we then have to rivet it into place from the inside To do this you need to build a tool like this  
 You just need a kind of small cone-shaped tip to cut it very short, it's difficult and weld it onto the hardened piece of metal.
The diameter of the punch tool must be just large enough to be inserted into the collector. I place it on two blocks and use a hammer to hit the tube a few times to deform the tube from the inside to rivet it in place like a rivets it is important to machine the tube well so that it creates a Good tight seal at first  
Once riveted in place all is good and and seal Perfect save time and $$ make this tool You will thank me later  

1/2A Nut wrote:
Your vid does a great job of showing what the tiny air choke and NV assembly can do.
I bought one from Mike, have not messed with it yet. A servo will be able to lock in a good idle.
A full wave tuned pipe would be fun to try with the .010 RC carb.

rdw777 wrote:Sounds like a great plan Andras, Shark face would be a a good test plane to get used to handling the throttled .010….. For the throttle pushrod on my Ace Little Stick and Pageboy
I used Teflon tubing that was meant to be a dispenser for CA glue for the sleeve…. A piece of .008” metal guitar string for the rod…. A piece of paper clip wire to engage the throttle arm with a a soldered brass tube coupling to hold them together….Easy to snake around the balloon tank with this pushrod and very friction free….

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