TeeDee 051 carb sleeve replacement

rszanti Sun Dec 16, 2018 4:15 pm

I have a replacement sleeve for the cracked one on my TeeDee 51 but don't know how to get the prop driver washer off the front of the crank. I have disassembled the engine completely but am now stymied. Is there a procedure for doing this ?

Richard

rsv1cox Sun Dec 16, 2018 4:35 pm

rszanti wrote:I have a replacement sleeve for the cracked one on my TeeDee 51 but don't know how to get the prop driver washer off the front of the crank. I have disassembled the engine completely but am now stymied. Is there a procedure for doing this ?

Richard

There are tools for this. Just see Bernie here or check ebay. Or, make your own.

TeeDee 051 carb sleeve replacement Cox_to10

BTW, remove the piston first. Smile

Dave P. Sun Dec 16, 2018 4:38 pm

TeeDee 051 carb sleeve replacement Img_2046

This disassembly tool is available from Cox International. You can do the same thing with the spinner bolt. If it's never been disassembled before, it can take a pretty good several taps to knock it loose, so be careful to tap it straight so you don't bend the bolt.

Bob beat me to it, he also shows the reassembly tool. You can get by without these tools, but they really are a better option.

Ken Cook Sun Dec 16, 2018 5:27 pm

Whenever I work on a TD, I just unscrew the collet on the nose. This quickly and easily removes the drive washer. You need to use caution though as the Cox tool (pin spanner end) can easily damage the threads on the case if not careful. Due to the lock collet being tapered, depending on how you hold the wrench on it the pin end can make contact with the threads. Essentially if the tool is properly placed and held squarely on the collet this won't happen. No hammering, beating etc.

rszanti Mon Dec 17, 2018 3:24 pm

I have it apart, thanks for the help. I've found the crank has a circumferential slot in it filled with what appears to be a heavy grease. Is this a special lube or something else ?

Richard

Ken Cook Mon Dec 17, 2018 3:29 pm

Richard, if your making reference to the center portion of the crank which has what appears to be thick brown gook, it's residual castor. This will heat up when running and grab hold of the shaft robbing several hundred rpm's. The crank needs to have this removed as well as the inside of the case. Running fuels with synthetic oil can prevent this.

Jason_WI Mon Dec 17, 2018 3:45 pm

Soak the parts in denatured alcohol. This will dissolve the hard castor oil. Make sure the entire part is submerged. Any parts exposed to air can start to corrode where the alcohol line is at.

I use a forney fine brass brush to clean up any stubborn spots. Just enough to clean up the castor. Also use a firm tooth brush on any anodized or blued parts like the cylinder to clean off any castor.

rszanti Mon Dec 17, 2018 3:46 pm

That's what I'm referring to. I have new fuel that is part synthetic, part caster lube. That should help. Thanks.

GallopingGhostler Mon Dec 17, 2018 7:49 pm

Dave P. wrote:

This disassembly tool is available from Cox International. You can do the same thing with the spinner bolt. If it's never been disassembled before, it can take a pretty good several taps to knock it loose, so be careful to tap it straight so you don't bend the bolt. Bob beat me to it, he also shows the reassembly tool. You can get by without these tools, but they really are a better option.

Oh, if I did it day in and day out may be a reason for getting a special tool. Since I don't do it often, I use an old, worn prop screw to remove the prop thrust plate. A few light taps with a hammer nicely disengages it.

rsv1cox Tue Dec 18, 2018 7:57 am

These tools are pretty cheap but can be easily duplicated especially the disassembly tool. But reassembly is another matter and that where this tool shines.

You can back up the crankshaft and hammer on the prop drive washer and risk damage to both especially with a new un-serated drive washer or make your own tool with a threaded shaft, a couple of washers and a spinner hub. But this tool has an extended hub, shaft and washers that fit that make reassembly so much simpler keeping everything in alignment while dragging the crank shaft onto the drive washer.

Bob

GallopingGhostler Tue Dec 18, 2018 11:20 am

I found if one mounted a prop with the loose drive prop underneath and an expendable used 5-40 prop screw could press it back into place, no hammers required.

rsv1cox Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:38 am

GallopingGhostler wrote:I found if one mounted a prop with the loose drive prop underneath and an expendable used 5-40 prop screw could press it back into place, no hammers required.

Proves there is more than just one way to skin a cat George. Smile

Bob

GallopingGhostler Wed Dec 19, 2018 10:05 am

rsv1cox wrote:
GallopingGhostler wrote:I found if one mounted a prop with the loose drive prop underneath and an expendable used 5-40 prop screw could press it back into place, no hammers required.
Proves there is more than just one way to skin a cat George.

This is true, Bob. And I don't mean to put down tools. If I were regularly pulling the prop thrust washers off, then buying a tool makes sense.
Lighting The Tree

rszanti Sun Dec 23, 2018 12:17 pm

GallopingGhostler wrote:I found if one mounted a prop with the loose drive prop underneath and an expendable used 5-40 prop screw could press it back into place, no hammers required.

Which is what I did and it worked fine. Thanks for all the help.

Richard

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