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Post  Oldenginerod Sat Jan 22, 2022 8:15 pm

While I know everyone says not to use old nylon props, I've found that the original large-hub props seem to run better on these engines than a modern equivalent size.  I gotta say, the black clip on spinner for the .11 is like rocking horse poop. Steve (the guy who had all the Gilbert inventory for sale in recent years) had ones to suit the .07 along with the original props, but I've never seen one for an .11.
Bob, those yellow .07 props should be pushers and were used on the "Wing Thing".  The Wing Thing didn't use the exhaust pipes but had small tongue mufflers, as pictured here.  
Gilbert - a little different form of trash - Page 2 Screen13
I don't think either type were particularly effective in reducing noise.  As I've mentioned here before, many people get the exhaust stack fit wrong by installing either two left of two right pipes to the same engine.  The pictures of the nose of the plane clearly show the engine off-set and the reason for having two different shaped pipes so that they remain parallel with the fuselage.
When Steve was selling these a few years back, he also included an original fuel tank as well as a roll of Dacron control line as part of the "kit".  I have a few new tanks but no real use for them, if you ever need one.  Also got an original hanging card.
Gilbert - a little different form of trash - Page 2 Gilber10
Rod.
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Post  944_Jim Sat Jan 22, 2022 8:45 pm

OER
Any chance your image is from a manual? I'd love to see what documentation came with one of these...in particular, the .11 (since I have one).

TIA!

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Post  Oldenginerod Sat Jan 22, 2022 11:00 pm

Gilbert - a little different form of trash - Page 2 Gilber11
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Post  Oldenginerod Sat Jan 22, 2022 11:31 pm

Just a note- There are two different needle valve assemblies used.  The early engines with the clicker spring had a two-piece assembly with the nipple screwing in the bottom of the venturi and the threaded section for the needle screwing in the top.  These were replaced in later models with a conventional one piece spray bar with an unthreaded hole in the venturi, with a coil spring under the head of the needle.  THE NEEDLE THREADS ARE DIFFERENT and won't interchange (in my experience).
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Post  Oldenginerod Sat Jan 22, 2022 11:32 pm

Look at me!  I'm turning into the resident Gilbert expert.  Old Bugger lol!
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Post  944_Jim Sun Jan 23, 2022 12:03 am

Break-in instructions and 7x4 prop.for the .11. Just what I needed. Thanks so much, OER!

It would be good to convert to PDF and park in instruction.sheets to the left.
<----

I read somewhere this weekend how to eliminate the spring starter. Looking at the instructions it appears I'll need to fashion a washer with filed notches for the crank "keys." I may run mine yet!

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Post  rsv1cox Sun Jan 23, 2022 12:19 pm

I gotta say, the black clip on spinner for the .11 is like rocking horse poop.

Smile Smile

Thanks for all the responses guys, this turned into something useful rather than just me showing off more junk plastic airplanes.

I'll try the HP yellow cure Rene. I have some of that. Bubbles up nice when you pour it on a cut.
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Post  rsv1cox Tue Jan 25, 2022 3:41 pm

Disassembled the Gilbert this afternoon.

Pretty interesting design.  They used wood type screws to assemble instead of self-tappers, but they used a machine screw with nut receptacle molded into the fuselage for the main screw that holds the thing together including the landing gear.  There were no screws holding the engine in place. Both exhaust stacks are loose.  The plastic cowling is split and broken off but should be an easy fix.  Needs a lot of TLC.

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Most interesting is the bell crank.

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Post  roddie Tue Jan 25, 2022 7:12 pm

rsv1cox wrote:Disassembled the Gilbert this afternoon.

Pretty interesting design.  They used wood type screws to assemble instead of self-tappers, but they used a machine screw with nut receptacle molded into the fuselage for the main screw that holds the thing together including the landing gear.  There were no screws holding the engine in place. Both exhaust stacks are loose.  The plastic cowling is split and broken off but should be an easy fix.  Needs a lot of TLC.

Most interesting is the bell crank.

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Looks to me like a safety mechanism. The tension-spring possibly prevents over-controlling? Huh... The bellcrank mounting doesn't appear to be rigid.. but rather floating. I like the idea.. but did it work?
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