Super Satan build

Ron, the Super Satan has a full sheeting in the leading edge. Here's Larry holding the original Super Satan and my son helping with some of the others like the Blitz, the Killer with a Johnson combat special, Werewolf. https://www.flickr.com/photos/modelaircraft/24025093143/in/album-72157663438751620/

I guess I missed that detail, thanks Ken! Maybe I should look at the plans you sent again...

Why does everyone omit the gussets from the trailing edge to the tail booms?

OhBee wrote:Why does everyone omit the gussets from the trailing edge to the tail  booms?

I'm going to install the gussets. But i guess i didn't answer the question. My guess would be they feel they are not needed. I like the look of them myself.

What exactly IS a "short " kit? I see this term a lot....short parts?

Short kit refers to purchasing just the main components. On a full fuse stunter for instance, you would receive the ribs, ply doublers,engine crutch, fuse formers. YOU provide all the other sheeting, spars, flap material etc. Depending on the model you may receive more or possibly less. Laser Works for instance provides many many different kits for all aspects of the hobby control line, r/c.

Ken Cook wrote:             Short kit refers to purchasing just the main components. On a full fuse stunter for instance, you would receive the ribs, ply doublers,engine crutch,  fuse formers. YOU provide all the other sheeting, spars, flap material etc. Depending on the model you may receive more or possibly less. Laser Works for instance provides many many different kits for all aspects of the hobby control line, r/c.

       

Ken this short get, here's what you don't get.
Hardware pack.
Leading edge
Trailing edge.
wing sheeting.
engine mount hardwood.


You do get any part that has to be cut to shape,
Ribs, elevator, tail booms, wing tips, ect. All tank area pieces, boom gussets.

OhBee wrote:What exactly IS a "short " kit?  I see this term a lot....short parts?

ohBee check this site out.
http://lazer-works.com/misc.html

Most of my vintage combat planes are quite fast. My bushed engines are all good for 100 mph and the ball bearing engines are generally 115 mph and up. I use many of the 70's Tigers and Fox Combat specials in my 60's vintage models. They're quite a bit heavier than the period correct engines therefore I extend the booms. I never use boom gussets.  This past Sept. we had Vintage Combat in New Jersey. Larry Scarinzi came out for a visit which he typically does. and of course the picture won't allow everyone else to view   From left to right, my friend Al Feraro with his Super Satan. I noted that his Super Satan is the only one here with boom gussets. Larry Scarinzi next with the original Super Satan without gussets. Mike Luciano and to the right of him is his son Tom with two recent Super Satan builds both without gussets. Larry assisted Tom in building both Super Satan models making a change in the leading edge by backing it up with a spruce spar.

Well a few more pictures, got a little more done on the front end need to do some filler work and more sanding, got the elevator rod bent, and installed the gussets. still waiting on a tank from RMS, need to get it settle in and situated.

Great work!

That spinner would be a pain if you were using a 36X or some fire breathing equivalent. You will probably get away with it using the FP-20. Can’t wait to see the finish. Are you going with Dope or monokote?

Ron

Cribbs74 wrote:Great work!

That spinner would be a pain if you were using a 36X or some fire breathing equivalent. You will probably get away with it using the FP-20. Can’t wait to see the finish. Are you going with Dope or monokote?

Ron

Going with monokote, yellow, not totally sure I will use the spinner or not, i have never had to much luck with them.

I think the spinner really sets it off,! Means business! Have one on my Wido Satan!

Looking Good , What size tank did U go with?

getback wrote:Looking Good , What size tank did U go with?

It will be a 3 oz uniflow.

Cribbs74 wrote:Great work!

That spinner would be a pain if you were using a 36X or some fire breathing equivalent. You will probably get away with it using the FP-20. Can’t wait to see the finish. Are you going with Dope or monokote?

Ron

Ron wanted to ask why you mentioned the spinner would be a pain, curious?

The high strung combat engines like to backfire when flipping the prop. This more often than not causes the prop nut to loosen. The spinner then has to be removed to tighten the nut.

Ken Cook told me about this years ago and he was right on. If I do use a spinner I accept the fact it will probably happen. You could use a one piece spinner nut. The FP is pretty tame so it may be a non-issue, but something to be wary of.

Cribbs74 wrote:The high strung combat engines like to backfire when flipping the prop. This more often than not causes the prop nut to loosen. The spinner then has to be removed to tighten the nut.

Ken Cook told me about this years ago and he was right on. If I do use a spinner I accept the fact it will probably happen. You could use a one piece spinner nut. The FP is pretty tame so it may be a non-issue, but something to be wary of.

Got it, thanks for that.

Ok got a little more done, was waiting on a tank so i could fit it in. It's 3 oz. uniflow will run the fill/vent out and over to the other side of the engine, to get it out in the airstream. I have the bottom buttoned up.  Next i need to thin out some epoxy and paint all of the well area that the tank will sit in, once that's done will set the tank in permanently with some 100% silicone, it fits pretty snug in the well already just enough silicone to keep it from vibrating, and then cover the top up like the bottom is. Still more sanding and shaping to do. Any comments or thoughts please fill free to do so.

Now seeing your FP, keep in mind you have a iron piston version. Nothing wrong with that but they do prefer a touch more oil over the ABN version. I have a iron piston on a Flite Streak which is fairly heavy and it does quite well. Just in the event your not aware. the inboard pipe on the tank is the uni pipe. You always fill your tank through this pipe otherwise you will short tank your flight. In addition, especially a all tubes forward tank like you have is to get the uni pipe into clean air. Now as your tank sits, your cylinder head is blocking it offering a turbulent air flow into it which can cause crappy runs. One solution I do all the time is to cut a piece of fuel tubing about 1 1/2" and push it onto the uni pipe and just let it lay on the cylinder head. Another option is to place a piece of copper onto your engine nacelle directly on top and leave it pointed straight into the airflow and attach using a piece of fuel tubing .

Ken Cook wrote:             Now seeing your FP, keep in mind you have a iron piston version. Nothing wrong with that but they do prefer a touch more oil over the ABN version. I have a iron piston on a Flite Streak which is fairly heavy and it does quite well. Just in the event your not aware. the inboard pipe on the tank is the uni pipe. You always fill your tank through this pipe otherwise you will short tank your flight. In addition, especially a all tubes forward tank like you have is to get the uni pipe into clean air. Now as your tank sits, your cylinder head is blocking it offering a turbulent air flow into it which can cause crappy runs. One solution I do all the time is to cut a piece of fuel  tubing about 1 1/2" and push it onto the uni pipe and just let it lay on the cylinder head. Another option is to place a piece of copper onto your engine nacelle directly on top and leave it pointed straight into the airflow and attach using a piece of fuel tubing .

Thanks Ken for the info on the iron piston FP, i have used uniflows before and was going to run the uni pipe over to the other side of the nacelle, but yes i can just set it up on top of the nacelle, less work.

Hopefully everything works out. If the tank or engine is vibrating, this can cause erratic runs. You have the option to run standard vent if necessary by leaving your overflow open and capping the uni. It's a nice option to try if the run isn't working out. Another thing that can also be problematic is the uni pipe might need to be necked down. I have done this by inserting a small 1" piece of 3/32" tubing inside of the 1/8'. I also keep Brodak yellow caps and I place them on the uni pipe and just provide a tiny hole in it.

Ken Cook wrote:              Hopefully everything works out. If the tank or engine is vibrating, this can cause erratic runs. You have the option to run standard vent if necessary by leaving your overflow open and capping the uni. It's a nice option to try if the run isn't working out. Another thing that can also be problematic is the uni pipe might need to be necked down. I have done this by inserting a small 1" piece of 3/32" tubing inside of the 1/8'. I also keep Brodak yellow caps and I place them on the uni pipe and just provide a tiny hole in it.

Thanks for that, i don't expect to have any vibration, will see how the run goes.