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Post  Slick049 Mon Dec 31, 2018 2:26 pm

So I've collected the supplies and begun the process.
Cleaning - Cleaning up some scuzzy engines Clean_10

Got a couple that wouldn't even turn over, so figured if I messed them up I wouldn't be out anything.  
Fingers were crossed that I would be able to salvage parts, at the least.
Cleaning - Cleaning up some scuzzy engines Clean_11

I should preface this with the fact that I read as many "cleaning" threads as I could find here and would try the most practical ones.  Some with the crock pot/anti-freeze idea, some with a SIMPLE GREEN soaking, some with brake cleaner and some with carb carb cleaner.

I expanded a bit on the crock pot option by including a fish tank air compressor/bubbler as an agitator.
Cleaning - Cleaning up some scuzzy engines Clean_12

I tried to include a video of it in action but ain't computer savvy enough to get it to transfer here.  It worked fine and suspect it helped, but I didn't try it without it, so, who knows if it was worth the extra effort and expense (Walmart -$11).

I have removed the parts, after 4 hours, and it definitely loosened things up, but one of them required crank removal.  Reassembled, it seems to be back to a runable condition.  

Props and a shout out to Matt at EXMODEL Engines.  I ordered some stuff on the 26th and got them today, the 31st.  Woohoo!  Thanks for the fast processing Matt!  I can move on to messing with the little .020 now.  

A quick question to the gurus here regarding the reed.  My old ones are 4 point "stars".  The only ones I see for sale are the straight sided oblong kind.  Am guessing they're direct replacement.  Please chime in if there is something I need to sort out prior to replacing the old style with the new.

Am anxiously awaiting shipment of some fuel to begin test running the new/old finds.  I'll be asking some questions about the fuel once received.  I've been reading about the need for %s of castor oil, synthetics and all that and have only confused myself.  I'll have specific questions once I see what the can says.

Regards
Rick
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Post  getback Mon Dec 31, 2018 2:41 pm

Cool , If you are careful you can save the old reeds if not fine , get the Mylar ones they are the best in my opinion , If you didn't order some then make them from sheets you can buy at wally world of .005 Mylar , should have pick up some Hobbies gun cleaning solution , it will make those BB back plates shine again in a skinny minute << not necessary but i like it and will eat that crude off too . ( just don't leave anything in there over 1/2 hr. ) You do know that carb. cleaner or brake clean either one will eat the plastic up on TDs and Medallions ! To post a video you must have a youtube acct. and run the url address to the post.You tube ^^^^^ Happy New Year I Love This Forum!
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Post  rsv1cox Mon Dec 31, 2018 2:46 pm

Wow, you went all out, a new crock pot!

Looks like my workshop supplies.

About the only thing not salvageable on these Cox engines is the case gasket, and sometimes you can save that too. Yes, EX is very prompt in their shipments.

Need an "after" picture. Fuel tanks clean up very well when chucked up on a drill press and lightly applied 400/600 grit wet/dry paper followed by lightly applied fine steel wool. You can polish to a high sheen mirror finish too.

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Post  Slick049 Mon Dec 31, 2018 3:00 pm

That crockpot was a present about 20 years ago.  Finally got to put it to use.

I do plan on doing a little polishing when I get to the better engines.  These are the worst of the lot.  Test samples, if you will.  I hope to get them running but not optimistic.  Just getting the cleaning thing down before I start messing with the better examples.

Roger on the plastic eating abilities of the carb and brake cleaner. Trying the non-eating stuff first.
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Post  SteveM Mon Dec 31, 2018 3:29 pm

Have to ask, why antifreeze?
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Post  Slick049 Mon Dec 31, 2018 3:31 pm

SteveM wrote:Have to ask, why antifreeze?

Never heard of it myself. Quite a few on here mentioned it so I gave it a go. Am guessing the glycol/alcohol content is the cleaning agent. Seems to work ok.
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Post  Mark Boesen Mon Dec 31, 2018 3:39 pm

you should always 'cook' outside, the antifreeze vapors are not real good for you, keep covered. As a rule of thumb, use high setting and check after 3-4 hours or low overnight, air pump is a nice idea, but probably not needed.
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Post  Slick049 Mon Dec 31, 2018 3:45 pm

Mark Boesen wrote:you should always 'cook' outside, the antifreeze vapors are not real good for you, keep covered. As a rule of thumb, use high setting and check after 3-4 hours or low overnight, air pump is a nice idea, but probably not needed.

Agreed on the outside usage. Very smelly. And a bit toxic. Did all the testing of the setup inside then moved it all outside. The low setting got it up to 175 degrees. Will go with high setting on the next run. And yea, I don't think the bubbler helped all that much with the cleaning.
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Post  Oldenginerod Mon Dec 31, 2018 4:37 pm

I noticed in your picture that you still have the starter cam in place on the engine in the antifreeze. I'd recommend that you don't put any plastic parts in antifreeze as it can bleach some materials and make them go powdery.

Why antifreeze? Some of us here have had excellent results cleaning cruddy engines in the stuff. It's cheap, easy to get, can be used over & over, and as much as we're warned about toxicity, it's relatively safe. Also not flamable like solvent based cleaners.

Not having a crock-pot, I place engine parts in a tin can of it and cook them in a toaster oven overnight at just over 100 degrees Celcius. (Out in my shed). Some cast alloys come up shiny like new, others tend to go a dull grey, but all come clean.

Rod.
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Post  Marleysky Mon Dec 31, 2018 5:13 pm

Slick049 wrote:That crockpot was a present about 20 years ago.  Finally got to put it to use.

I do plan on doing a little polishing when I get to the better engines.  These are the worst of the lot.  Test samples, if you will.  I hope to get them running but not optimistic.  Just getting the cleaning thing down before I start messing with the better examples.

Roger on the plastic eating abilities of the carb and brake cleaner.  Trying the non-eating stuff first.

Just a note worth repeating for safety sake. DO NOT EVER USE this Crockpot for food. Once used with anti freeze it is stongly recommend that it be used for engine parts crocking ONLY.    ( anti freeze is poisoness, and not good for humans and small furry creatures).  Happy New Year
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