For sale -- Cox Custom Carburetors for Tee Dee engines

sosam117 wrote:bump

bump again

I have posted on R/C Groups the carburetors that I have available and are for sale.


Click on the link below to go to the website:
Cox Tee Dee carburetors

Your carbs dont look like the Cox ones.




Books like its missing bypass bleed ?

How do yours run ?

MANDALAY wrote:Your carbs dont look like the Cox ones.




Looks like its missing bypass bleed ?

How do yours run ?

My designs are of a simple design with no modifications to the engines needed.
If I tried to make it like the original Cox carburetor, they probably would cost well over $125.00 each or more.
Most R/C carburetors can do without the bleed screw.
The bleed screw is there so that you can completely close off the main intake (venturi) and the engine will still run (idle).
Mine doesn't have the air bleed so that you can shut off the engine.

I know of some fliers that completely screw in the air bleed screw to close it off so that they can stop their engines.
On your transmitter you can adjust the end point to have the carburetor slightly open to a slow idle, and use the trim tab to close down the carburetor completely to stop the engine (which I setup my planes this way, with the air bleed screw completely closed)

As for how they run?

Other CEF members have been happy with how well this simple design carburetor works.

Thanks to Andras Balogh YouTube video that he made of my Cox Tee Dee 010 you can see how well the carburetor works on the smallest engine make works.
And designing and making that carburetor work on the Cox 010 was not easy to develop as fit and finish on critical "small" parts were required.

Here is the video:
Cox 010 Carburetor

Now let us address your original Cox carburetor.
1.) It is a good design but not a simple one to make at home on a small Minimat 45 lathe and Klutch mini mill.
2.) More parts --- more cost --- more to go wrong with the design.
3.) The KISS design (Keep It Simple Stupid) keep the design simple without having to modify the engine in any way.
4.) less parts - less problems / cheaper cost and time making carburetor with less parts.
5.) Problem with the original Cox Carburetor ---- plastic fuel nipple will become brittle and break over time (with/without use)
I have had to make replacement nipples for my original Cox carburetors ( I have five of them)
Below are photos of one of the nipples that I had to make a replacement for:





I see yours is not broken yet?

6.) The slight air leakage around the needle valve on the Cox carburetor if you don't replace the tiny O-ring on the needle valve once in a while.
Other than that, it is a good carburetor.

Now "IF" you can find and purchase this next carburetor --- this Tarno Carburetor.
It is a design for the Cox 049/051 engine, but expect to pay no less than $150 if new in the original package?
I have seen used ones go for at least $100.

And, yes, the Tarno has an air bleed hole, but it has no air bleed screw to reduce the air intake, and I have seen where the hole has been filled with epoxy (sometimes) to block it off.









So, the option is up to you of which carburetor to use?
The hard to find and expensive Tarno carb, the also hard to find and slightly less expensive Cox carb, or my simple and least expensive carb that is available (for now)?

I hope I was able to answer your question?
Just wanted to have all the information available to answer any additional questions that you may have had.

Thank you,

Here is the video I made on the 010 engine with the RC carb I bought from Mike aka sosam117.

One more note to Mike's summary about the genuine 049/050/051 size COX RC carbs is that the carb setting screw as well as the airbleed screw tend to get loose after some vibration, due the soft aluminum material of the carb. In an extreme case the thread tapped in the carb body for these screws is sheared off.

I use RC carbs on the COX TeeDee049/051 engines, but I prefer the Tarno carb, that is more robust and has only one setting screw plus a fixed airbleed....

sosam117 wrote:

MANDALAY wrote:Your carbs dont look like the Cox ones.

Looks like its missing bypass bleed ?

How do yours run ?

My designs are of a simple design with no modifications to the engines needed.

...

I hope I was able to answer your question?
Just wanted to have all the information available to answer any additional questions that you may have had.

Thank you,

Thank you for your very detailed response !

Over the past few months I am slowly getting back to my childhood love of the cox engines.

To say that I have gone on a spending spree would be an understatement.

I have bought MANY brand new old stock engines  From the Golden Bee to Tee dee's Also a range of the models RC containing both muffler and also the carb including the one I pictured.

In my days there wasnt readily available RC and throttle control ( 70's ) and to a certain extent low funds.

Now I am totally fascinated with Throttle control. Never saw them in my days

I can see how a plastic part can fail so I might have to reach out to you with those fuel nipples.

Having said that I have seen many just opt for a throttle ring ?

However I have purchased many Tee Dee like this one so I will give one of yours a go. So its a matter of removing the trumpet and adding you throttle correct ?



BTW I bought a few 0.09 engines will your carb fit on them as I would like to try it on those engines.

Regards

Thank you !

MANDALAY wrote:

Thank you for your very detailed response!
Over the past few months, I am slowly getting back to my childhood love of the cox engines.
To say that I have gone on a spending spree would be an understatement.

I have bought MANY brand-new old stock engines from the Golden Bee to Tee Dee. Also, a range of the models RC containing both muffler and also the carb including the one I pictured.
In my days there wasn't readily available RC and throttle control (70's) and to certain extent low funds.
Now I am totally fascinated with Throttle control. Never saw them in my days

I can see how a plastic part can fail so I might have to reach out to you with those fuel nipples.

Having said that, I have seen many just opt for a throttle ring?

However, I have purchased many Tee Dee like this one so I will give one of yours a go. So, it's a matter of removing the trumpet and adding your throttle, correct?

BTW I bought a few 0.09 engines will your carb fit on them as I would like to try it on those engines.

Regards
Thank you!

Mandalay,
I am sorry but I did not make the fuel nipple to be sold. I made them to show the CEF group that one could be made from K&S brass tubing and a little Enginuity.
It took me a few tries to get the ones I needed correctly, and I flared the end of the inlet pipe to hold onto the fuel line better than just a straight piece of tubing.

Now for my carburetor.
I didn't see the need to redesign the good needle valve assembly that Cox had for the standard venturi.
I designed my carb to be simple and all you have to do is unscrew the venturi from the intake body, remove the needle valve assembly from the venturi (remember how it was on the venturi) and then slip it onto my carburetor and then thread the carburetor onto the intake body on the engine (be careful not to cross thread the carburetor while screwing it on).

One thing before you screw the carb onto the engine. Make sure that the nut on the carb. is all the way up to where it stops on the face on the underneath side of the carb.
Now screw the carb onto the engine.
Next is to stop screwing in the carb to where the servo arm is on the right side of the engine (engine pointing away from you).
Now screw down the nut onto the venturi body (on the engine) to lock the carb from rotating.
This is important ---- "IF" you have the plastic venturi body, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUT, because if you do, the plastic venturi body will crack after a while because the aluminum will expand because of the engine heating up and as you may know, the aluminum will expand and "IF" you tightened down the nut too tight, it will crack the plastic.

On my engines where the plastic venturi has cracked over time, I have replaced it with the aluminum venturi body that Cox International or EX Model Engines sells as a replacement and that part being aluminum, I don't have to worry about the different expansion rates of the different material.


Click on the names below to go to their website where they have their aluminum bodies available?
Cox Interntaional Carb body
EX Model Engines Carb Body

Now for your last question.
Does my carb fit the Cox Tee Dee .09 engine?   Sorry they do not.
Have I thought of making a carb for the Cox Tee Dee .09.
Not really because I have other .09 engines and didn't see the need to do one for the Cox Tee Dee .09
Though, I did modify two Cox Tee Dee .09 engines with the aluminum venturi bodies to be able to use an Enya .09 carburtor, which worked out very well. But it was a lot of work to make it fit and work properly.

And by the way, this carburetor has no air bleed screw (hole) in the front, and it is used on an Enya .09 Quicky engine.













One other thing I also did was to modify an Enya 049 muffler to fit onto the Cox Tee Dee .09 as the club field rules have every engine must have a muffler.













So, owning many Enya .09-I/.09-II/.09-III/.09-IV/ .09 Quicky engines. I didn't see the need for a Cox Tee Dee carb.
Also, I do not own many of the larger Cox .09 and .15 engines as that size engines (Enya) were cheaper back then.
Though, I do have now collected some Enya .049/.06/.08 and .10 when I first was able to purchase them from Australia back in 1996 which have throttle control.


My Enya .049-II Glow with throttle control:



My Enya .06-II Glow with throttle control:



My Enya .08 Glow with throttle control:



And last ---- My Enya .10 Glow with throttle control:




MY collection of Enya .09 I/II/II/IV/ and Quicky