I want to ask Santa for a mini table saw

Admin wrote:My friend has one of these, I had to replace the power switch on it for him a number of years ago. For the price + a 20% off coupon, it might be a fun little toy to play with.

I have their little bench grinder, http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-grinder-with-flex-shaft-43533.html It gets occasional use.

It does the job for me. I cut mostly balsa, up to 4 1/16 inch sheets at a time with ease. Plywood 1/4 inch easy. Even fiberglass sheet 1/16 inch thick with steel cutting blades made for the children saw. THE CHILDREN SAW?    I went to Lowes to look for a steel cutting blade, fine tooth, and they didn't have any for a scroll saw like the HFT saw or a coping saw, but they had a blade for a children's saw that was slightly, 1/2 to 3/4 inch, longer. The steel blade was not as brittle as I thought it should be. I snapped off about 5/8 inch, drilled a tiny hole for the pin, installed it in my HFT scroll saw and off I went happily cutting fiberglass sheet. The steel saw blade, 1/4 inch, is wider than the standard wood blade, 1/8 inch, so you have to take the corners slower and you can't make really tight turns like 1/4 inch circles or such. Other than that the steel blade works great just like the HFT scroll saw.

edited to correct spelling 12-2-2015 10:50 p.m. PST


happydad              - when do we get the RC car emoticon ?

Hey Rusty you are not going to like this

I bought that HF 4" table saw and it is junk for what we do.... Please go look at it in the store before wasting your money

No angle, table top is wiggly, the fence is too small to be consistent and the blades are hard to change to a better tooth count or kerf.... useless for the spar or LE  stripping I needed to do

I put a thin kerf blade on my commercial carpentry table saw and stripped down 1/2" balsa sheet to 1/2x1/2 square LE edge pieces in less time than it took me to change the blade

The only small ones worth having is way too costly from Micro Mark

http://www.micromark.com/microlux-miniature-table-saw,6936.html
$144

http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-tilt-arbor-table-saw-for-benchtop-hobby-use,7500.html
$380

Both too much for me as I already have the big one that works

Best to find a Lowes or Home depot home 10" table top saw for under a hundred fifty on sale as it is quite useful even for thin balsa and most other infrequent home repair tasks with out breaking the bank...again here, the HF one for $129 is not very good for the bucks...would be OK down around $79

That Ryobi one at Home depot for $129 is much better and precise fence compared to the HF asia knock off

I am seriously considering this from Lowes or Home Depot it is basically a table top jig saw but has real good fences to do repetitive straight cuts

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rockwell-Blade-Runner-X2-Portable-Tabletop-Saw-RK7323/205611390
$89

Freud thin kerf blades are under $50 bucks and cut Balsa, Maple, Bass, Spruce just fine with a fairly finished cut edge and don't heat or screw up / waste balsa like a standard blade does.... I use a 40 tooth one

Normal blade
Kerf: 0.126 in.
Plate Thickness: 0.098 in.

Typical Thin Kerf
Kerf: 0.91 in.
Plate Thickness: 0.071 in.

The colors are the same as that POS chain saw sharper I have , but the real question would be what are you going to use it for or expect it to do ? If anything heavier than balsa or lite ply I wouldn't waste my moneys on it and save for a better one (name brand) of coarse they don't grumble if you take it back because it wasn't what you expected . I have a large table saw but, have to drag my ass to the shop and move some stuff to use it . This one looks a lot better for 129- http://www.homedepot.com/p/Proxxon-Bench-Circular-Saw-KS-115-37006/203459864?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA%7c&gclid=CjwKEAiA7f-yBRDAgdv4jZ-78TwSJAA_WdMa_KOIspLsAORQWXPgoWPiSVoAmlV4CZJHa615PeDfohoCAXvw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds don't know the brand but has a good assortment of extras with it . getback

fredvon4 wrote:Hey Rusty you are not going to like this

I bought that HF 4" table saw and it is junk for what we do.... Please go look at it in the store before wasting your money

No angle, table top is wiggly, the fence is too small to be consistent and the blades are hard to change to a better tooth count or kerf.... useless for the spar or LE  stripping I needed to do.......

........I am seriously considering this from Lowes or Home Depot it is basically a table top jig saw but has real good fences to do repetitive straight cuts

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rockwell-Blade-Runner-X2-Portable-Tabletop-Saw-RK7323/205611390
$89

Freud thin kerf blades are under $50 bucks and cut Balsa, Maple, Bass, Spruce just fine with a fairly finished cut edge and don't heat or screw up / waste balsa like a standard blade does.... I use a 40 tooth one

Normal blade
Kerf: 0.126 in.
Plate Thickness: 0.098 in.

Typical Thin Kerf
Kerf: 0.91 in.
Plate Thickness: 0.071 in.

Dang, I guess it's too good to be true. I like that Blade Runner, but too much to ask of Santa, so I might have to rethink my Christmas list. Thanks for the heads up though.
Rusty

Eric, I like that Proxxon saw too.

I have the HF one also. I'm a bit scared of it. While sitting on a flat surface with the motor running it will "walk" around. I use it to cut firewalls and such from ply and it works well for this, but the guards are a joke. I have removed them and just remain verrrry cautious. Although I use mine, I do not think I would shell out $37 for a new one if it broke.

I've used table saws all my life as a carpenter and those little circular saws are an accident in waiting.
To rip small stuff you would have to make some kind of jig just to make it work, the Blade-runner looks good to me.
PS I still have all my digits!!


Porter-cable and Delta used to be the best of the best when I was young, I don't know who bought em just to get the name but their tools now are nothing of the old.

I have also been looking for a power tool for the holiday's since my jigsaw gave up the ghost installing wood flooring in my son's room. I've been looking at the Rockwell Bladerunner X2. It's essentially a jigsaw mounted to a small portable-style sawbase. Kinda nifty looking and might be able to bridge that gap between hobby stuff and true tool duty for small projects.

About $100.

In my post above about using a table saw and thin kerf blade

I failed to note that the $50+/- Freud blade is excellent for it's intended use but should not be used for cutting thick hardwoods not because of any heating or warping from the blade but the fact that almost all newer table saws have a fixed riving knife ( helps prevent kick back). The total thickness of the riving knife is set for standard kerf blades and too fat (thick) with the thin kerf blade so must be removed.

Being removed for my ripping of 36" or 48" balsa sheets is not that dangerous due to the light nature of the balsa in case of a "kick back".

Like said or implied above... I too have all my fingers after a lifetime of wood working with power tools

so a healthy understanding of the risks and proper shop safety are always on my mind when ever I flip the ON switch

I need to make the long trip (45 miles one way) into Lowe's today and just might bring home the Rockwell blade runner 2X

And as an after thought...once I found the HF $37 Table saw was no good for my use- as designed.
I have been trying to figure a design to make a fixture to use the base, motor and blade in a decent home made top and fence
I can find fence making fixtures for Incra and woodpecker and some are kit form with pre-dadoed guide slots....maybe one of my under tree requests

Thanks Fred and everyone for showing me what this saw quest really is. I have never been a skilled woodworker outside of the hobby. I've replaced decking and other easy to measure jobs, but I'm not even comfortable with a skillsaw. I have one, but never look forward to using it. I think I'll tell Santa to forget the inexpensive table saw of any kind. I'm disappointed though. I'll keep an eye out for something that suits me. I was just hoping to cut straight lines and angles and slots for $37 bucks. My scroll saw will remain my main cutting tool, and I'll straighten the wobbly edges with the belt sander. That's my usual method.
Rusty

Shoot Rusty if all you really want to do is cut some straights then clamp you a straight edge fence down on the schroll saw and push the lumber (balsa) through it that is and easy inexpensive way to do it , maybe I can take a pic of what I am saying if you need ,,,, right now its FIRE WOOD TIME getback

Hey Rusty. Watch the local "for sale" ads.. and go yard-sailing. Look for an older table-top saw. If it's really old though.. it may have a 1/2" arbor.. and you'll need adapter spacers/rings to use 5/8" arbor-hole blades.

I have a "Hulk" of an old table-top saw. My grandfather gave it to me.  It's a Toolkraft "Darra James" brand similar to this one. It's very heavy.. (50+ pounds..) with a cast-iron top. The motor-brushes are easily accessible.. but I haven't had to change them yet. It uses a toothed drive-belt.. and is plenty powerful for any hobby work.



Mine has a 1/2" arbor.. so I have to use these adapters for blades with 5/8" holes.



These Black and Decker 5.5" diameter blades both have 1/2" holes though.. and they cut a narrow kerf. The plywood blade measures .070" and the 16-tooth carbide is .082" (tooth-width).  



Some key things to look for in a used table saw are; that it has a decent ripping-fence.. and miter-gage. Check that the blade-height and angle adjustments work smoothly. If possible test the motor/switch before you buy it. Make sure that the saw's base can be secured so as not to slide when you're feeding stock into the blade. Use your scroll-saw to make a push-stick.. to use for feeding narrow rip-cuts. The scroll-saw is great.. but you need a table-saw for ripping nice straight cuts.. and for making your own hardwood engine mounts. You can make short-work of cutting thin ply blanks for profile-fuse doublers.. draw a pattern and finish-off with the scroll-saw. Rip strips of 1/8" ply for bellcrank plates and such. If you're a scratch-builder.. there's plenty of hobby uses alone, to justify having a table saw.

I love my saw from Micro Mark... their Microlux brand. It is made by Proxxon. I am so glad I purchased this jewel! I've had it over ten years and it still cuts balsa, ply and spruce with ease using the original blade. I even cut micarta without problems although that stuff sure stinks! The newer model has a better fence and the blade is adjustable for depth and angled cuts. The motor has an adjustable speed control but I always cut at a low setting.

You might peruse some ship building forums for tools they use, too.

to admin: I love the Cox engine cursor!

roddie wrote:

Some key things to look for in a used table saw are; that it has a decent ripping-fence.. and miter-gage. ...The scroll-saw is great.. but you need a table-saw for ripping nice straight cuts.. and for making your own hardwood engine mounts. You can make short-work of cutting thin ply blanks for profile-fuse doublers.. draw a pattern and finish-off with the scroll-saw. Rip strips of 1/8" ply for bellcrank plates and such. If you're a scratch-builder.. there's plenty of hobby uses alone, to justify having a table saw.

Those are exactly the reasons I want a table saw. I like the Proxxon that Eric and ARUP wrote of, but I'd have to save up for them. Yard sale surfing is a good idea too. Years ago before I knew I'd ever be doing this kind of woodwork, I gave away my grandfather's old tabletop bandsaw . Boy' I wish I had that back too. But the scroll saw is a decent substitute.
Rusty

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RknRusty wrote:

roddie wrote:

Some key things to look for in a used table saw are; that it has a decent ripping-fence.. and miter-gage. ...The scroll-saw is great.. but you need a table-saw for ripping nice straight cuts.. and for making your own hardwood engine mounts. You can make short-work of cutting thin ply blanks for profile-fuse doublers.. draw a pattern and finish-off with the scroll-saw. Rip strips of 1/8" ply for bellcrank plates and such. If you're a scratch-builder.. there's plenty of hobby uses alone, to justify having a table saw.

Those are exactly the reasons I want a table saw. I like the Proxxon that Eric and ARUP wrote of, but I'd have to save up for them. Yard sale surfing is a good idea too. Years ago before I knew I'd ever be doing this kind of woodwork, I gave away my grandfather's old tabletop bandsaw . Boy' I wish I had that back too. But the scroll saw is a decent substitute.
Rusty

If you bought a micro table saw.. I think you'd only end up wanting a larger one later on. My neighbor is moving to Florida, and asked me if I could use a small table-saw. He was going to put it out for trash pick-up. I took it.. and haven't even checked to see if it works yet. It's all there though.. sitting out in my shed. I can't say that a table-saw is a tool that I use frequently.. but that's because I haven't been building anything for a while. Nine times out of ten though, I'll need it for something during a build. Usually a jig or fixture. I generally keep certain woods handy in my shop too. Short lengths of assorted hardwoods (1" x 2" finish-grade oak, maple, poplar etc.) 1" x 2" furring strips and 2" x 3"/4" studding-stock. I also find a lot of uses for 1/4" sheet plywood and luan plywood. My table saw cuts any of those effortlessly.

I mentioned looking for a decent ripping-fence on a 2nd-hand saw. Anyone would agree that the ripping-fence on many saws needs to be set with a square. The front edge of the saw's table should be square with the blade.. so I set my ripping fence with a framing-square using a steel-rule to gage between the fence and the blade.



I wish I had the original miter-gage for it.. but it was missing when my grandfather gave it to me.  It's a model 825A.. and I can't find much info on it. It sits on a piece of padding that was made where my grandfather worked. It's called Air-loc.. and is used under heavy stationary machinery to prevent creeping from vibration. It helps to keep my saw from sliding on the floor.. which is usually where I use it.. as opposed to a bench.



I should look into putting a 3-wire power cord on it.. It may have one.. and had a non-grounded replacement plug attached..     I should check that.

Band-saws are nice to have.. but like you said; you have your scroll-saw. I worked for an employer that had a small "cut-off" band-saw. Those have a clamp for the stock (bar-stock) and a stop for setting the cut-off length. The blade-carriage tilts-up for loading.. then is lowered down on top of the stock. When it finishes the cut, a pin on the carriage contacts a switch to shut off the motor. I want to try making my homemade muffler  bodies using one. They're made from 1" alum. tube.. and would cut like butter.

Here's an in-expensive one from Harbor Freight.

Band-Saw

My initial enthusiasm for the Rockwell upside down Saber Saw was dashed when I finally got to see and touch one

I stand by my recommendation for a low cost table saw and GOOD blade

And hasten to add:
In my model shop I have a (too expensive @$299.00) micromart 9" band saw (find a much cheaper one please) received as a Xmas gift. I use the hell out of, and is very well suited for Many of our modeling cutting tasks

I find the 16" HF scroll saw also very good and use it a lot... BTW there is a series of sanding blades from Olson in 1/4" to 1/2" widths and different grits...I use these a lot on the scroll saw to shape things like the inside of profile wing cut outs

The 5 most used power tools in my airplane shop:
Dremel... I now have 4 of these....hand me down from Dad, store bought by me, and 2 Xmas gifted cordless...I use the 8200 cordless one a LOT!
1" belt and 5" disk sander... by Grizzly
9" Band saw...MicroMart...there are much cheaper one for sale
16" Scroll saw... Harbor freight
Drill press.... Lowes Skill small table top version

I have the bigger versions of some of these in my woodworking shop and the smaller ones in my airplane shop

This winter all will be moved to the woodworking shop to get rid of the saw dust problem

BTW the Rockwell Saw is junk for our use...

Fred
I gave up on the table saw idea, so still have no way to dependably rip a piece of wood. But on the other hand Lol, I still have all of my fingers... on both hands. And most of my blood. That's a legit concern as I'm pretty well anticoagulated and tend to spring frequent leaks at the slightest insult. The reviews on all but the top shelf table saws were fairly concerning.

I have the HF 16" scroll saw which has saved my sawing shoulder a world of hurt. 1" belt sander, check. And I have a big disk/belt sander which still needs a new power switch. I get by pretty well, but am wondering how to make some matching angles for joining spars and such with my latest repair project, where half the sticks are glued in place.

Hi Rusty, I'm surprised that you still haven't found a table-saw. I wouldn't pay attention to the latest reviews.. and I wouldn't buy a new saw. You nor I would use it the way a Carpenter would. Carpenters are anal..

My youngest brother and I are prone to checking-out garage-sales. Do you do that at all? Maybe you just haven't had any luck yet. Try searching the local paper for moving-sale ads. Is there an indoor Flea-Market within reasonable driving-distance? Often-times there's a "tool-guy" who rents space for the season.. and being indoors, he doesn't have to move product every weekend. His wife does it.

Seriously though Rusty... don't pass on any table-saw that runs. Buy decent blades for it. If there's no ripping-fence; obtain a piece of Aluminum-extrusion and cut it to the length of the saw's table. Two 3" C-clamps will lock it down once it's set with a square. You may not use the saw again for months... in which time you may search for a better one. Just don't skimp on the blades. A high tooth-count carbide is more expensive.. but it's worth it; especially when you're dealing with smalls/hobby-work. Obtain a plywood-blade for cutting plywood. It greatly reduces splintering.

Problem with garage sales are you cannot try the saw typically. Major parts are more expensive than the entire saw for modern work site table saws. If it don't run walking away is probably the best.

Now a solid cast antique that requires 4 men and a boy to move is a different story, fully rebuildable and possibly a Ford front end for the blade spindle bearings. Best of luck finding one.

There are some old types of low kerf blades that can be run in a big saw. A low kerf 7 1/2 inch blade is thinner than a low kerf 10 or 12 inch blade, yet can be run in a useful manner in a larger saw, typically.

Phil

Seems to me I once saw a Sears router table that claimed you could mount a jig saw under it. With a good fence and a fine tooth blade that might be just the thing.