Cox 15 piston reset tool loaner program

Again a generous offer from Jason

But how can I tell which version my TeeDee .15 is?

Here's a couple of pictures:

That is the first version TD 15. It has the thinwalled cylinder. Later versions had thicker walls.

I am in for that, were is the sticky ? And could you please post if you can where the info is to tell witch TD or Medallion we have so you want bee answering a lot of questions as to where there or not you should use the tool . Thank you Jason , very kind of you Sir , Eric

Whoo boy, Jason!
I'll be hitting you up for that reset soon.
I have a Sportsman with an Olympic p/c
that could use a little love. Very generous of you(as usual).
The thankful Bob

Here are a couple of pics of the first version TD .15. Note the needle valve is pivoted for easier storage. It gets moved to the normal (straight out) position for running. Also, this is completely stock. I bought it new when they first came out.

George

I was a little confused with my TeeDee .15 as it has the thin wall cylinder which would indicate it being one of the "original" ones, but the guy who gave it to me said he'd had it since the early seventies. He was born around the time this TeeDee was made I just assumed he had bought it new but maybe it was NOS at the time or second hand.

Thanks for the clarification guys. I haven't inspected the internals yet but it's good to know the tool is available in case it's needed. I'll need to get some parts from Mecoa (plastic carb body, conversion head, shims and such) and start fixing her up. It seems that the free engines are always the most expensive

(Sorry about the hijack)

Hi Jason,

I'd like to put my name on the list for the loaner 15 piston re-seating tool, if it's still available.

I have all the other re-seating tools that Cox offered, and have re-seated several of my engines successfully.

Very kind of you to offer a tool that is not available from other Cox sources.

Best regards,

Bill
NW Fireballs C/L club, Portland, OR
wgadair@comcast.net

Bill,

I am very sure Jason will help you out, he is a stellar individual, but if he misses this post please give me a shout through PM and I will be able to help.

Ron

The tool is soon on its way to Bob. Once he is done with it then it can go to Bill. I had to blue the tool so it wouldn't rust and find a case for it. I'll get a pic up of the tool in the case ready for shipment.

Jason

Thanks Jason, I'll do the do, and send it off to
Bill straight away.
Bob

Ok here are some images of the tool in the case. There are instructions and a guest book under the top cover foam. Please sign the guest book and if you wish add stickers to the other areas of the case.

I just sent the .15 reset tool off to smooth-bill, with a tracking number.
I used her on my Sportsman that has an Olympic p/c assembly. I spent
about 15 minutes with it, and it worked perfectly. Thanks and kudos to
Jason. Machining a piece like this is way beyond my capabilities, so it was
a real savior.
The reset Bob

Should have taken photos.

Excellent. Glad it worked out for you. Keeping those early .15s in running condition is the goal.

Not sure why Cox never produced a .15 reset tool when they had the .15 ball/socket piston for a number of years.

Jason_WI wrote:Not sure why Cox never produced a .15 reset tool when they had the .15 ball/socket piston for a number of years.

Jason,

Fortunately, we on the forum have you around, and you made the effort to build an extremely professional tool for us. Can't thank you enough for that.

As I mentioned to Bob, I've been reading up on the Cox 15 engines, and will be looking for one in the future. Since we have use of your loaner tool for now, I won't shy away from the ball socket versions.

Actually, the 15 engines with wrist pins may be more of a problem to maintain than the more common Ball Socket version. Has anyone here seen a spare piston/cylinder with wrist pin in there life time?

I'll be waiting for a forwarding address, as soon as we fix my friends engine.

Thanks again Jason.

Bill

smooth_bill wrote:

Jason_WI wrote:Not sure why Cox never produced a .15 reset tool when they had the .15 ball/socket piston for a number of years.

Jason,

Fortunately, we on the forum have you around, and you made the effort to build an extremely professional tool for us. Can't thank you enough for that.

As I mentioned to Bob, I've been reading up on the Cox 15 engines, and will be looking for one in the future. Since we have use of your loaner tool for now, I won't shy away from the ball socket versions.

Actually, the 15 engines with wrist pins may be more of a problem to maintain than the more common Ball Socket version. Has anyone here seen a spare piston/cylinder with wrist pin in there life time?

I'll be waiting for a forwarding address, as soon as we fix my friends engine.

Thanks again Jason.

Bill

Smooth Bill brought up something interesting, I did an experiment recently by comparing the wear pattern in the bores in my medallion .15 which has the late wrist pin and my TD .09 "I know smaller engine" The .09 had even wear all the way around while my .15 pinned engine had clear wear marks form side movement of the piston. The Ball/socket setup while limited in larger engines have one advantage  "even wear" when a B/S equipped engine runs, the piston rotates much like a non-roller flat tappet in an automotive engine, this is done to keep the wear even so the tappet doesn't wear out the lifter bores, this is the same for cox P/C sets. This is one of the reasons why cox pistons and cylinders can be mixed to an extent, however it takes some fitting to get it right. Now in the big cox engines that have the wrist pin, this rotation no longer takes place so the wear becomes one sided or indexed (Mated), due to this the pinned P/C sets have to be replaced as a matched unit this could explain one of the reasons why the P/C sets are rare. When one of these engines are tore down for cleaning or what not, they have to be indexed so as to ensure that they go back together exactly the way it came apart, so a paint pin to mark the cylinder location on the case and a sharpi mark on the rod to indicate correct orientation when its re-assembled. if this is not done, it can cause the engine to wear faster or loose power since the spots that wore together are no longer matched up so they have to wear together again which will wear out the cylinder. Low time engines that have not completed break-in may not be so bad off btw
I know most of ya may already know this but to don't hurt to mention it for those who may not know. Hope this helps folks (Bandit)

I think the 15 pistons with wrist pin are cast iron also, as far as orientation in the cylinder I've found the Cox name stamped on the rod to the rear so far.

I know most of ya may already know this but to don't hurt to mention it for those who may not know. Hope this helps folks (Bandit)

Nope, did not know. I accidentally just won a somewhat concealed Olympic on eBay in the midst of a bundle with two other engines. The seller didn't know what it was, so maybe the auction flew under the radar of serious Cox engine buyers. I have one Olympic from an earlier eBay haul and with some of the learned knowledge abounding in this forum, will perhaps have at least one Olympic that runs at the end of the day.
Here're the shots of the latest eBay Olympic, and a couple of my existing Olympic. I was able to spin the piston of my current Olympic with my fingers so it is definitely a B/S version.







Here's a couple of shots of my earlier new-to-me Olympic. Not sure what the deal with the head is, on this. Would it run like this?



[quote]

Hi,
I could do with loaning the .15 piston reset tool for my Sportsman, but I'm resident in the UK. Is this a problem and if not, how do I proceed?

Probably be best for it to be removed from the case and just send the tool across the pond to save on shipping costs. The case is a bit bulky.

OK - sounds most helpful. How does moving the tool around the CEF members work? If I can be informed of the shipping cost and the sender details, then I could PayPal over the correct amount. Would I need to return it or send it on to another member? Anyhow, please advise me. My address is: 37 Avocet Crescent, College Town, Sandhurst, Berkshire, GU47 0XW, United Kingdom. Thanks - Edward.

PeterJGregory wrote:Not sure what the deal with the head is, on this. Would it run like this?

I believe the head is correct, but the cylinder fins have been machined down.  Also, it looks like the exhaust ports have been modified, so someone has obviously had bit of a "fiddle" with your original engine.

Rod.

How about a "European tour" for the reset tool? I have an early TD .15 probably in need of a reset. I haven't taken it apart yet but it is a high mileage engine.

I just mailed some engine parts from Finland to UK and the postage was only a couple of euros. So if there are any other interested besides tuckered and myself, Maybe we could work something out and perhaps split the overseas postage each way? That is, if it's OK with Jason.

I'm ok with it traveling to Europe.