Babe Bee Back plate Screws

Yes, Bob's McMaster-Carr link is a good place to start. If it were me, I'd get the 1" long screws, which are the exact size for the 8cc integral tank (Golden Bee). You can cut them shorter for the 5cc tank which takes 3/4" long screws.

Be sure to get the "Fillister-head" type. If you thread 2 or 3 nuts (2-56) onto the screw, you can grip it with small locking pliers while you cut the screw shorter with a dremel/cut-off wheel. Unscrewing the nut(s) afterward will remove a heavy burr from cutting. Check/dress with a jewelers file under a magnifying glass to finish. Radio Shack sells packets of 2-56 nuts.

All Righty Then , thanks again man that is what I need and will do , Don't know what the person that owned all these engines was doing ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/201242195917?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Lots of good stuff but....  Damn

Eric, while you're at it, get a 2-56 bottoming tap. Sometimes the screws tighten because they run out of threads leaving the backplate loose enough to leak. I don't know why but Cox didn't always thread their crankcase holes deep enough, even though the holes are.
Rusty

Bottoming tap
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qual-Tech-2-56-CARBON-STEEL-BOTTOMING-TAP-/360871318386?pt=Power_Tools&hash=item54059b5372

Or a regular tap will do for you since you are experienced at such things.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-S-Replacement-Tap-2-56-437-NIB-/390992401585?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item5b08f694b1

Here's a 4-40 tap
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-S-Replacement-Tap-4-40-439-NIB-/331404339968?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item4d293ceb00

The picture of that first 2/56 tap doesn't match the description.

True, listing is mislabeled. It's a taper to start their threading, which one would follow up with the bottoming to complete threads if required to the bottom of the hole.



I had a Gilbert .11 engine I bought that didn't have the muffler mount hole threaded, ended up buying a 3-48 tap, which fixed the problem.

Eric, if you need a tap handle,McMaster-carr has a rachetting one made in Germany for small taps,General,a U.S. company had good handles that were sold in hardware stores,I haven't seen one in awhile.

getback wrote:All Righty Then , thanks again man that is what I need and will do , Don't know what the person that owned all these engines was doing ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/201242195917?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Lots of good stuff but....  Damn

Eric.
I noticed the piston on the right in the 3rd picture on the listing. What's gonna make a Cox piston get so hot that it turns blue like that?

Looks like you'll have fun cobbling together a few working engines from all that lot.
Don't forget, Cox International will have the screw as well.
http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-fuel-tank-screw-long-4.html

Rod.

rat9000 wrote:Eric, if you need a tap handle,McMaster-carr has a rachetting one made in Germany for small taps,General,a U.S. company had good handles that were sold in hardware stores,I haven't seen one in awhile.

I've used a pin vise for a small tap handle.


Don't know what gives, 20 years ago these used to be easy to find just about anywhere. I haven't even seen them at Lowes, Walmart or Harbor Freight, which I find odd.

With small taps, I'd be reluctant to use any type rachet devise, got more control and feel using a manual handle.

Wow Thanks Guys , I have taps that I need for now , I worked at a fastener outlet at one time ( Automotive Fasteners ) ordered the screws , some nuts . Looks like they changed the design of the handle George http://www.generaltools.com/70801--Miniature-Pin-Vise_p_303.html you know wood is obsolete now a days . Got some gaskets , reeds and other stuff coming from Cox Intern. Rod I seen that pretty Blue Piston , Must have been straight gas There is some other strange looking stuff in this batch too . Eric

Nice find, looks like you got some stuff to play with for a while. I noticed a K&B/Aurora Tornado case and cylinder, also an early Golden Bee with small tank and it looks like the tank is over with the rest of the tanks.

getback wrote:Looks like they changed the design of the handle George
http://www.generaltools.com/70801--Miniature-Pin-Vise_p_303.html

Eric, I think that smaller pin vise was available before. The one I got has a chuck, same size as a hand drill. I'd use drill bits and taps up to a 1/4 inch in diameter with it. Works well as a universal handle, great devise for hand cutting holes through plastic, balsa and ply on models.

Regarding a racheting handle, rat9000, that may work for others but I'd have difficulty with it. When I tap, once started, I twist about 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then back 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The forward motion cuts the threads. The backward twist allows the chips to break off and back off, giving room for another try until all threads are cut. Sometimes half way through with chips piling up, I'll back out the tap, clean off the chips, blow out the hole I was threading with compressed air. Otherwise, without a backing motion, tap could break from the additional resistance of the chips at the cut.

It's more of an art than a science, and I've broken my share of taps. Those can get expensive.

Mark Boesen wrote:Nice find, looks like you got some stuff to play with for a while. I noticed a K&B/Aurora Tornado case and cylinder, also an early Golden Bee with small tank and it looks like the tank is over with the rest of the tanks.

Yea your right Mark , the Aurora don't have a piston but am sure its in there somewhere /that bore looks smaller than a cox 049 ? Like I had said I have some strange pistons the boss where the con. rod is connected to the piston really stands higher that a cox . This is going to take some TIME Eric

Oldenginerod wrote:
...
Eric.
I noticed the piston on the right in the 3rd picture on the listing.  What's gonna make a Cox piston get so hot that it turns blue like that?
...
Rod.

I think that was not done inside an engine. It looks like the piston was heated in an attempt to draw temper...except the whole thing is mild steel... The piston may have been reset too hard and this was an attempt to free it.

Phil

Phil That piston still has a lot of slop at the joint    It hard to get a good pic     That was my 4th try , if it ever ran that hot seem to me it would have seized up .

Gee Eric, I thought I was doing well getting these engines in a single day. But you blew me away with winning that auction..



I followed it for awhile (but did not bid) along with his other one. Lot's of fun there that will keep you busy for a few months.

A lot of those packaged NIB OK Cubs are showing up on ebay. Someone must have stumbled on a warehouse full of them. The other engines came in a single buy. The Holland Hornet with timer tank and the Spitzy are the most interesting.

I just took a close look at that auction for the first time. Man, you got quite a haul for runners and spare parts.

Eric, here's my "General-brand" pin-vise. I really like this one.. because the top (knob) turns. Your index finger on top and thumb/remaining fingers clasp the barrel for feeding-in a small tap. Nice control and feel.

I have found that "General" usually has a kiosk/display that's usually on an "end-cap" in the big-box home centers. It's in the tool department.. but you have to look around a bit. General has some neat little tools for the modeler.

This pin-vise came with two double-ended collets of four sizes. The largest size collet will accept a 2-56 tap.





Here's a couple different lubes I use when tapping.




http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-92-Swivel/dp/B000BQW5XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420676965&sr=8-3&keywords=general+pin-vise

rsv1cox wrote:A lot of those packaged NIB OK Cubs are showing up on ebay.  Someone must have stumbled on a warehouse full of them. 

OK Engines are still selling new engines until the end of this year when they are shutting down their engine department to concentrale solely on model trains.  .025s ($50), .049s ($20) & .059s ($40) are still available new.  They have never stopped assembling and selling engines, but I think in the last couple of decades it's just been down to Ted Brebeck assembling them up from old stock parts, just to keep hands-on in the company.  He's been threatening to retire for about the past 3 years, but he now says it will definitely happen by the end of 2015.

Rod.

What properties does cutting oil generally have? I usually just use 10w, but I'm guessing the right stuff might be lighter. I have to tap so infrequently that I've never worried about it, but lately it's becoming more frequent as I'm working on ships with more precision. I'm going to put it on my Lowes list along with a better pin vise and also a tap handle.
Rusty

Off topic from back plate screws, and many years since I've sold taps but here's an answer: cooling and lubrication.
The properties that are sought after in a good cutting fluid are the ability to:
keep the workpiece at a stable temperature (critical when working to close tolerances). Very warm is OK, but extremely hot or alternating hot-and-cold are avoided.
maximize the life of the cutting tip by lubricating the working edge and reducing tip welding.
ensure safety for the people handling it (toxicity, bacteria, fungi) and for the environment upon disposal.
prevent rust on machine parts and cutters.


Read more: http://www.answers.com/topic/cutting-fluid#ixzz3OC2uSaWu

Oldenginerod wrote:OK Engines are still selling new engines until the end of this year when they are shutting down their engine department to concentrale solely on model trains. .025s ($50), .049s ($20) & .059s ($40) are still available new. They have never stopped assembling and selling engines, but I think in the last couple of decades it's just been down to Ted Brebeck assembling them up from old stock parts, just to keep hands-on in the company. He's been threatening to retire for about the past 3 years, but he now says it will definitely happen by the end of 2015. Rod.

Rod, I noticed from their website:

http://okengines.com/main.shtml

that they want $2 for their engine catalog. Do they accept personal checks?

Marleysky wrote:Off topic from back plate screws, and many years since I've sold taps but here's an answer: cooling and lubrication. The properties that are sought after in a good cutting fluid are the ability to:

• keep the workpiece at a stable temperature (critical when working to close tolerances). Very warm is OK, but extremely hot or alternating hot-and-cold are avoided.
• maximize the life of the cutting tip by lubricating the working edge and reducing tip welding.
• ensure safety for the people handling it (toxicity, bacteria, fungi) and for the environment upon disposal.
  
• prevent rust on machine parts and cutters.

Read more: http://www.answers.com/topic/cutting-fluid#ixzz3OC2uSaWu

As a college student I worked in a machine shop one summer 37 years ago. For most parts machining, the machinist I was assisting usually had a can of very light oil for aluminum, (I think it may have been kerosene), had various other oils for the machining of different materials. The band saw he had did have a spray bath set up, which sprayed a water mixed with oil, looked milky. I think he had a large lathe setup like that also. Most of the parts were small and occasioanlly feeding drops of oil from a squirt can was sufficient for small parts.

Even the 10 inch diameter thick wall aluminum pipe that he used for making ocean bottom seismometers for the University of Hawaii Geophysics Lab, AFAIK, didn't use a spray system except when cutting sections for machining. This was to protect the band saw blade.

Milling of the ends with the lathe, he would squirt oil or use a small disposable brush on the material before the tool bit periodically as it was cutting.

Aluminum cuts relatively easy and could take off 100/1000th inches at a time for fast cuts. Mike the part, clean up cut say 10 to 20/1000th. Final cut say 1 to 3/1000th. Speed was important. I learned that the machines were happiest at certain cutting speeds.

Steel OTOH was a different story, required slower cutting speeds and cuts were at a much lesser depth.

As his helper, I learned to debur parts with a file, tap holes, finish mill parts, etc. Did power tapping holes in aluminum.

Those were interesting experiences, not that I know anything because I really don't. Gives one a slightly different perspective and respect for materials and those who work them.

For hobbyists like us, I've found just about any oil works for drilling and tapping. I've used 3-in-1 light machine oil, swamp cooler bearing oil, 40 weight motor oil, air tool oil, Dexron transmission oil, 90 weight gear oil, etc. Keeping the tool tip wet with a drop here and there allows chips to break off freely and keeps tool from dulling, overheating, etc. Rarely do I dry drill. That is a good way to dull a bit in short order.
Anyway, as off topic as this is, interesting stuff.

GallopingGhostler wrote:

Rod, I noticed from their website:

http://okengines.com/main.shtml

that they want $2 for their engine catalog. Do they accept personal checks?

I got one sent out a couple of years ago because I was ordering parts & they added the $2 to my first order. I paid by Mastercard.
Last year I enquired about an updated catalogue and they just sent me one gratis. I haven't put in an order yet, but being an overseas purchase I have to use card, although I think they may accept Paypal now..
Catalogue was 3 sheets (6 pages) with pictures of "new" products & specials,terms & conditions, company history and 4 page parts listing. Parts cover .049 A&B, glow plugs & heads, .049D, 1/2A Accessories, .024/.025 parts .049R & .060R, OK Cub Kart, OK Hot Rod, Dragmaster, Cadet (nil), .049 original, .039, .049X, .14 & .19, .074 & .074D, .099. .29 & .35, .49 & .60, OK Twin, Super 60 & Tornado, Bantam .19, .29 & Mohawk Chief, Co2. It doesn't specify what's still in stock, but I do know a lot of the common parts are and are very cheap.
Maybe I shouldn't tell everyone that!!

Rod.