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Putting on my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats.
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Putting on my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats.
Well, being inspired by Joe’s Baron thread (https://www.coxengineforum.com/t7585-cox-baron-airplane#95521), my mind got to wandering and wondering again.
If I were to take one of these Wild Wings Planes and mess around with it, what would I get?
Notice the widening of the fuselage where the tank sits right at the wing c.g.? If you pulled the plastic fuel tank, wouldn’t that be just about right for a bladder to expand and fill the space?
And wouldn’t it be interesting to take a Killer Bee backplate from Bernie, press out the needle valve and replace it with a 128TPI needle valve from a postage stamp, and place it in this airplane with a Black Widow or TD piston and cylinder from Bernie?
And that landing gear? It just looks like it’d be in the way, since I fly off of grass anyway. The plane could just be stooge launched. It can go.
All that open space under the plane creating drag? A quick application of tape under the fuselage to fair that over, and it’s nice and clean. If the experiment showed promising results, a clear plastic or 1/16” balsa bottom could be cut and sanded to shape for a more permanent solution.
That bellcrank? I bet it could be made much more flush with the bottom of the wing.
Hmmmm. I just happen to have three Killer Bee backplates that need the needle assemblies pressed out of them (they were inserted into the backplates upside-down somehow), a TD P/C set needing something to do, a postage stamp backplate that could donate its NV assembly, and plenty of tape/balsa eagerly waiting to be used. All that I don’t have is the bladder setup and the plane. I guess it’s time to step up my search for the plane…
The Ever Expanding Project List Mark
Thinking some more, maybe a little more rearranging. It's hard to tell from the photo above, but without the landing gear, the bladder could probably go ahead of the existing fuel tank, c.g. be damned. Then, the bellcrank could be located inside the fuselage to eliminate that drag.
Want to go even further? Take some Dollar Tree foam, 3M 77 it to the bottom of the wing and sand it to match the top surface, making the wing symmetrical, and then cover it with packing tape.
I'd say my hare-brained ideas are getting the better of me, but since I'm wearing my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats, it's THEIR fault I'm doing all this scheming.
The Blameless Mark
If I were to take one of these Wild Wings Planes and mess around with it, what would I get?
Notice the widening of the fuselage where the tank sits right at the wing c.g.? If you pulled the plastic fuel tank, wouldn’t that be just about right for a bladder to expand and fill the space?
And wouldn’t it be interesting to take a Killer Bee backplate from Bernie, press out the needle valve and replace it with a 128TPI needle valve from a postage stamp, and place it in this airplane with a Black Widow or TD piston and cylinder from Bernie?
And that landing gear? It just looks like it’d be in the way, since I fly off of grass anyway. The plane could just be stooge launched. It can go.
All that open space under the plane creating drag? A quick application of tape under the fuselage to fair that over, and it’s nice and clean. If the experiment showed promising results, a clear plastic or 1/16” balsa bottom could be cut and sanded to shape for a more permanent solution.
That bellcrank? I bet it could be made much more flush with the bottom of the wing.
Hmmmm. I just happen to have three Killer Bee backplates that need the needle assemblies pressed out of them (they were inserted into the backplates upside-down somehow), a TD P/C set needing something to do, a postage stamp backplate that could donate its NV assembly, and plenty of tape/balsa eagerly waiting to be used. All that I don’t have is the bladder setup and the plane. I guess it’s time to step up my search for the plane…
The Ever Expanding Project List Mark
Thinking some more, maybe a little more rearranging. It's hard to tell from the photo above, but without the landing gear, the bladder could probably go ahead of the existing fuel tank, c.g. be damned. Then, the bellcrank could be located inside the fuselage to eliminate that drag.
Want to go even further? Take some Dollar Tree foam, 3M 77 it to the bottom of the wing and sand it to match the top surface, making the wing symmetrical, and then cover it with packing tape.
I'd say my hare-brained ideas are getting the better of me, but since I'm wearing my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats, it's THEIR fault I'm doing all this scheming.
The Blameless Mark
Last edited by batjac on Sat Dec 20, 2014 1:17 am; edited 3 times in total (Reason for editing : Thinking again.)
batjac- Diamond Member
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Posts : 2372
Join date : 2013-05-22
Age : 61
Location : Broken Arrow, OK, USA
Re: Putting on my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats.
Speaking as one of the devils on your shoulder, I like the idea. We need dimensions. I'll pump up a bladder and see what the diameter and length is with an ounce of fuel which is a good 5 or 6 minutes of flight juice. I'd like to see it nestled behind the engine. I like for it to straddle the GG. It's about the shape of a Johnsonville bratwurst.
Rusty
Rusty
_________________
Don't Panic!
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
RknRusty- Rest In Peace
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Age : 68
Location : South Carolina, USA
Re: Putting on my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats.
lol, lets start a proxy plastic racing class!
I think that plane would look cool with some thin mouse racing wheels, small aluminum bell crank, efficient APC prop and of course a hot reedy!
I think that plane would look cool with some thin mouse racing wheels, small aluminum bell crank, efficient APC prop and of course a hot reedy!
Last edited by Mark Boesen on Sat Dec 20, 2014 10:01 am; edited 1 time in total
Re: Putting on my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats.
Here's about a 5 or 6 minute flight. It needs to be about +1inch wide so as not to constrict the bladder.
And a couple of inches long. It never gets wider as you increase the fuel, it just grows longer.
That's a 1 way valve in the tail. It makes filling quick and simple. Just jam the syringe in the tail, give it a nitro enema and let it rip
Rusty
And a couple of inches long. It never gets wider as you increase the fuel, it just grows longer.
That's a 1 way valve in the tail. It makes filling quick and simple. Just jam the syringe in the tail, give it a nitro enema and let it rip
Rusty
_________________
Don't Panic!
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
RknRusty- Rest In Peace
- Posts : 10869
Join date : 2011-08-10
Age : 68
Location : South Carolina, USA
Re: Putting on my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats.
That sounds pretty wild Mark , Go for it like to see what happens when you turn up the Heat !! Eric
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Posts : 10430
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Age : 67
Location : julian , NC
Re: Putting on my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats.
#3 reporting in... I'd keep the bellcrank where it is Mark. Put "some sort" of a wingtip-weight on.. because I don't see one there.. I'd also make a shroud (1/2-tube) from thin plastic sheet for a bladder-bay.. to avoid abrasion. Since you're not using the L/G.. you could utilize the L/G mount-slot.. and make a music-wire "hoop" to hold the bladder up inside the fuse. Do you have an APC 4.75 x4 prop?
Streamlining the bottom of the fuse could make it difficult to service the bladder.. but one way to try it, would be to cut a piece of .5mm clear plastic sheet, having the outline of the fuse bottom.. and cut a slot for the fuel line. It looks like there are "tabs" on the nose for rubber-bands? If so; punch 2 holes (using a std. hole-punch) in your clear-sheet to thread a rubber-band through and up around the tabs.. and you have your front-mount. Devise something simple and lightweight for securing the rear. I would use hook & loop fasteners.
None of these mods would require altering the stock airframe at all.
Hang onto your "RRM" hat when you go to fly it though!!
:lol!:Rusty.. nitro enema!
#3 signing-off..
Streamlining the bottom of the fuse could make it difficult to service the bladder.. but one way to try it, would be to cut a piece of .5mm clear plastic sheet, having the outline of the fuse bottom.. and cut a slot for the fuel line. It looks like there are "tabs" on the nose for rubber-bands? If so; punch 2 holes (using a std. hole-punch) in your clear-sheet to thread a rubber-band through and up around the tabs.. and you have your front-mount. Devise something simple and lightweight for securing the rear. I would use hook & loop fasteners.
None of these mods would require altering the stock airframe at all.
Hang onto your "RRM" hat when you go to fly it though!!
:lol!:Rusty.. nitro enema!
#3 signing-off..
Re: Putting on my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats.
yep, I was thinking just replace bell crank with an aluminum one. Maybe make it a one wheel LG?
Re: Putting on my Roddie, Rusty, and Mark (Boesen) hats.
Here's a Mustang built years ago (and of course never flew) Tee Dee cylinder, Black Widow case, flared open backplate 128TPI needle, reworked 1/2a Pylon prop, cut down rubber tires, etc. This ended up in the pile along with the modified PT-19, hot "Mouse" engine (8cc tank) and full travel bellcrank with the thought of outside loops and inverted flight.
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