Snowplane, radio gear

A small update on the construction. I covered the tail below the engine with 1,5mm balsa and also the nose. First I cut a central rib to support the edge of the "bonnet" in the middle. Then, I traced the contours of 1 side to a piece of paper holding it on the model.







The balsa sheet was cut a little over size, only the egde in the middle was made exactly as it should be.





The 2nd part was cut and all glued together and the edges sanded.







Lieven

Looking fantastic Lieven! The front ski arrangement is ingenious!

This is meticulous construction. I like your use of templating for the bonnet covering and the metal work for the skis is outstanding.

Man that's Looking really Cool !! I think your going to have some fun with it , Thanks for keeping us posted Lieven , Nice work !! Getback

Thanks for your encouraging posts.

I glued the devided windscreen in place. I made again templates of paper to get the right shape. The only thing still to make is the hatch cover but first I will finish the body in case we have snow over here in the following weeks.

The further I am in the construction, the more I think that a Dragonfly will not be able to push that thing forward. I don't know. Testing will tell.

Lieven, this model is so cool!!! I think that the Dragon Fly should definitely work on hard-pack or ice. Oh man... I can just see you on the shore of a smooth frozen pond.. tearing-around and trying to do some 360's for fun!!

Cant wait to see it in action!!! I have got to get some balsa dust under my fingernail ( if my son will EVER stop acting STUPID ) Sorry if I don't vent soon my head is going to pop off !!Getback Good job Lieven !

Last night I made the removable hatch. To get the frame right, I glued it while it was fixed in place with pins. I then sheeted it with 1,5mm balsa.





With my repaired iron, I managed to stick on the covering. For today, they anounced snow, We have less than expected but enough to take some pics of the model.









The snowplane is not finished yet. I still have to make the headlights, make an elecronic circuit for flashing LED's, drill a hole for the engine throttle control,...

What would be the way to connect a music wire to the circlip of the muffler? I tried all sorts of bends and hooks but the circlip is too close to the muffler housing. The Dragon Fly instructions don't mention anything about that.

Lieven

Forgot to mention, the Windows are just tacked on. They will be replaced by black versions. That will look more realistic.

Looks great! Can't wait to see some video of it speeding over snow

Do you have a close-up photo of the throttle control problem area?

Thanks Kari. It looks like this:

Beautiful Work Lieven !!!

That is a tight spot. Have you tried these already?

http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=18_141&products_id=293&osCsid=9bee98e0cb191410efb04f4923497cd3

You are not the only one to come across this issue

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/1-2-1-8-airplanes-70/10897534-throttle-sleeve-ace-cox-setup.html

It is not just the diameter of the wire but the approach angle to prevent fouling. On one of my test setups I used much thinner wire attached the thicker pushrod as you have shown and angled it.

I like the pictures, this model is certainly coming along. Is that propeller a pusher?

OVERLORD wrote:Thanks Kari. It looks like this:

Lieven, Do you have the pliers designed to remove that type of clip? The pliers have two small hardened steel pins that spread the clip-ring open for removal and re-installation. If you can spread the clip-ring and slide it down just a little, this should allow you to install that rod oriented as shown in your photo.. then move the clip back up until it snaps back into it's groove. Be careful not to spread the clip open too much.. or it may not fit tight enough afterward; to grip and turn the barrel. If possible.. try to just lower the rear-facing part of the clip that the rod will connect to. You shouldn't need to move it too much.

You may need to file the top radius of the rod to clear the muffler housing. A clevis may work without needing to move the clip.. but you may need to file the clevis ears on the inside as well.

Here's another option that looks pretty neat!

Hey Lieven,

I don't know if you can get these over there, but I have used the smallest Sullivan cables for throttles on all sizes of engines.  You can easily put a Z bend in the cable itself, hook it through the snap ring hole, and CA one of the threaded tubes on the servo end for adjustment.  It has enough flex to follow the throttle ring around the cylinder without stressing anything. The shroud may need a little support arm on the engine mount to help aim the cable at the ring.

I really like them because they easily flex around and through the crowded fuel tank area in the noses of planes.

Thanks guys for your contributions. Kim gave me an idea I'd like to try. I'm thinking of taking a bit of electrical cable, strip of the insulation and wind the strands nice and evenly. Then bend it 90°, poke it through the circlip hole from below and bend it again between the circlip and the muffler with a knife blade or something similar to get a Z shape. To strenghten it, I'm thinking of heating the cable with a soldering iron and let it impregnate with solder. The other straight end of the cable will then be soldered to a piece of music wire.

The problem with using the pliers is that you cannot use them again to fit the circlips. And to force that back over the aluminium taper into the groove might be a bit delicate.

The prop in the pictures is a Cox 6x3 prop. I just screwed it on backward. I don't know if it's the best choice.

Although we haven't got snow, I tried the engine today and made some trials to see if it would proceed at all. I tried it first on the lawn. After starting the Dagonfly, it moved only a little. The grass gives too much resistance. After a few runs, black goo was coming out of the crankcase behind the drive washer. When turning the engine by hand, There was play on the crank and at each down stroke bubbles were abundantly present. I decided to do an engine change and put the the snow plane on the drive way. The little stones would give less resistance. A bit of downhill helps as well!!

The engine started well and initially, the snow plane did go well. However, it suffers from the engine torque and turns automatically to the left. After a while , revs seem to be decreasing a little.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KooNlBoS64M

Another video:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8tERTazpo

It is a fine start.

Sort the engine out, install RC and ...........take advantage of some snow.

When I saw it heading towards the road, i thought that it would have been my luck for it to to pick up and head under a car!

This does look as if it will be a successful build.

Not bad at all

The first few meters of the second video tell that it'll be really fast on snow. You might be able to compensate the tendency to turn left by turning the engine a little?

I agreed with Ian. Get the engine sorted and the rc system set up before the next snowfall  The engine, when it runs well, seems to have enough power.

Your build certainly is an inspiration. I just got back few hours ago from a walk on a frozen lake, your machine would be perfect for some fun out there

Hey Lieven, That's a great looking model! It will surely move-right-out with a peaked engine! I wonder if wheels were ever adapted to the full-scale vehicle? I wonder how stopping on a down-grade "with" skis was accomplished?

Too bad you didn't have dew wet grass to try out the snowcar. Then it might scoot better. Seriously, getting that engine to peak out would make a world of difference.

Maybe a 6 x 4 prop instead? I think you mentioned trials would be with a 6 x 3..