Tuning an .049 reed engine with tank

Is the needle valve turned until it bottoms out and then turn 3 turns from the bottom?
Than you for the information.

Yeah, you turn it down to close it and then open it up about 3 turns.

If possible, please post a picture of what engine you are trying to run. If you know what it is (ie: black widow,babe bee etc.) then let is know and we can point you to a instruction manual for that particular engine.

Ron

Here is the pic of the engine.

Ok, that's a Babe Bee.

You can find the instruction sheet for it here:

https://www.coxengineforum.com/h24-instruction-sheets

Please don't try and run it on that tin lid. Use a proper hardwood mount or a dedicated steel mount.

How long has it been since that engine has been run?

it has been more 10 years.

Make sure the breather hole has good air. A piece of plywood would be better, they don't run well if allowed to vibrate. It might foam the fuel on that tin plate. let us know how it goes.
Rusty

Would Arctic Fuel be okay to run in the engine?

Yes,

As long as it has 15 percent or better nitro and at least 20 percent oil with half of that being castor. More castor content the better.

Arctic fuel makes many different blends, but some are geared around 1/2A engines.

Ron

Thank you i Will have to order some fuel before i start the engine. I will let you know how it goes.

Sig Champion 25 is the go-to fuel for my 1/2A engines. It's 25% nitromethane/20% oil, and the oil is a 50/50 blend of Castor and synthetic. good stuff:
http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV5.html?E+Sig

Find That page by navigating from the main frame page by clicking on:
"Field equipment>fuel>airplane fuel", then click top left picture of Sig Champion and pick the one you want.

Rusty

As a side note, to achieve peak performance it's also important that the engine be CEAN both inside and out.  This is particularly important ifthe engine has sat unused for any length of time.

All gaskets need to be inspected and replaced if necessary.  Things like the pick-up tube snd spring (in the fuel tank) are often clogged with castor gum as is the needle valve seat.

New parts are available from Cox International or EX Model Engines.  (which see)

SD

I ordered the Sig 25 Champion today in the quart bottle. I also ordered an .049 tune up kit and also a tank back plate. I found a piece wood that i can use to mount the engine on.

The SIG Champion 25 arrived today now i am waiting for parts from Cox International. Then i will start the engine.  

Cool like SD replied make sure ur engine is clean before u even start gaskets, orings make a big difference I found out the hard way getting started back again , well still am learning Getback  

Every thing is cleaned. To clean the engine i used rubbing alcohol.

Get that Baby fired up there Blue Eyes ? last we heard u got some nitro.     Getback

Blue eyes, another important factor in getting that engine to run well, is making sure that the reed is sealing correctly. You may have gotten a new reed with your tune-up kit. There are different kinds of reeds.. but they all work the same way, and they will all fit your engine. The reed must seat correctly.. and the seat must be clean. I like to use a Q-tip cotton swab dipped in solvent to clean the seat of any gummed-up fuel residue that may be there. You must be careful not to scratch the seat. An old reed itself can be cleaned in the same way.. just be sure not to bend/crease it. When you install the reed with the circlip that holds it in place, do a simple test. Gently blow and suck against the reed. You should feel the resistance of the reed sealing when you "blow".. and feel it opening when you "suck". If you can feel air passing through the reed while blowing.. you need to re-check the seat to be sure it's clean, and you can also try flipping the reed over and re-installing it again with the clip, until you achieve this action. This is how the engine operates. It "sucks" the reed away from it's seat when the piston moves upward in the cylinder, which pulls in the fuel and air mixture.. and "blows" (pressurizes) the crankcase when the piston moves back down, causing the reed to seat against the venturi. This is why it's very important for the engine to be assembled carefully.

Tighten the four screws that hold the back-plate on "alternately" and "evenly" using a crisscross pattern once they start to become snug.

Although not necessary; an extra step that's well worth doing, is to take your crankcase and smooth the area where the gasket goes. You will need a piece of perfectly flat window glass and very fine (600 grit) sandpaper. Place the piece of glass on a nice flat table, lay the sandpaper (abrasive side "up") on the glass, place the crankcase's flat gasket surface on the paper and lightly move it in a circular motion a few times.. not too much is needed to make it smooth. Clean it with solvent afterward. When you reassemble the engine, you will know that the gasket has a nice smooth surface to seal against. SEALING and CLEANLINESS is KEY with getting these engines to run correctly from the start.

With your new back-plate, be sure to attach and locate your fuel pick-up tube correctly when you assemble the tank on the engine. Some people (including myself) prefer not to use the tiny spring in the pick-up line. Just make sure that #1.. the fuel line attaches firmly to the nipple on the back-plate.. #2..  that the line doesn't kink.. and #3.. that it extends to the left hand (outside) corner of the tank (for conventional "counter-clockwise" flight direction) when you reassemble it.

photo-courtesy of Paul Gibeault

Today i got the engine running. It was a very loud scream.

Good job!

Maybe ear plugs are next on your list!

Blue Eyes wrote:Today i got the engine running. It was a very loud scream.

Good work. Smoke and castor slime are good for the soul.
Rusty

The tune up kit came with a read valve.

Blue Eyes wrote:The tune up kit came with a read valve.

Oh yeah, the heart of the system.