Engine identification

Probably also missing is the venturi gasket. Suggest installing a rebuilt kit for the appropriate engine. Probably less than $5 from Bernie @ Cox International. (See above)

SD

A kit, and a few "extras" from Bernie or Matt would be a great idea. Betting that pick-up tube (clear fuel line) is petrified and will allow air leaks around the nipple. They also stock those tiny springs that fit inside the line. Not much $, and they will keep you from sending debris into the needle-valve area.

Maybe a propeller too !

Thanks to all.

As Kim said, the fuel line is very stiff, i feel it's impossible to remove without cutting it.

I am missing also the propeller screw, wich is impossible to find here in Spain, as it as an american twist.

Would you say the rest of the parts are clean enough for running?

Any Cox engine that has sat for a number of years can usually benefit from a thourough disassembly and cleaning followed by replacement of parts that commonly deteriorated with age.

It really depend on what you want to achieve, an engine for display or to use. It the later don't be afaid to spend a little money making it serviceable. Parts ARE available and affordable though our vendors. They ship internationally.

SD

Roko wrote:Thanks to all.

As Kim said, the fuel line is very stiff, i feel it's impossible to remove without cutting it.

I am missing also the propeller screw, wich is impossible to find here in Spain, as it as an american twist.

Would you say the rest of the parts are clean enough for running?

It looks good from here. If you do cut the fuel tube, be careful not to cut the underlying fitting. The metal is fairly soft, and it's possible to cut a slit which might allow air to enter as the fuel is used. Heating the tube with a hair dryer will soften it, and probably allow you to gently pry it off with a small screw driver.

Fuel tubing, along with prop screws and props are available from Matt and Bernie's stores.

Here are some tips for cleaning.
For removing dried up Castro oil and fuel and cleaning the inside of the cylinder and other internal parts any 15% nitro fuel or better and a good still toothbrush or a Q-Tip works. I buy medical or dental grade because they are stiffer and don't fall apart that easily.
If you take a bright flashlight you can shine it down the needle valve opening and look through where venturi to check for clogging. A sewing needle works great for clearing it. Glow heads tops can be cleaned by chucking one up in a Dremel and using 320B waterproof sandpaper ot something similar.
For polishing the silver colored parts Mother's Mag and Aluminum Cleaner is the hot ticket. For back plates I use Wight's Copper Cream and a Q-Tip.

I've done the cleaning with Alcohol and a bit of water and cleaned it with a toothbrush, however, I have not cleaned the crankshaft, as i've read I need the prop screw to take it out. Is it adviceable to clean it?



im ordering the following:

Cox .049 Propeller 5 x 3



Cox .049 Propeller Screw - Short - Classic (4)


Cox .049 Babe Bee Tune Up Kit


I should be done with that I guess

by the way, in that tune up kit, that reed valve? is not for my model, isn't it?

Everything pictured is for a reed valve. If you need to remove and install the crank there are tools at Cox International or you can make your own.

Hi Roko,

These prop screws are indeed a problem to get at this side of the ocean. No way you'll find a 5-40 UNC screw. I discovered 3 2nd hand Coxes in an Easter egg last week: 2 049 slit cylinder Babe Bees and 1 051 Tee Dee. All had props on them and on 2 engines these were held on by metric screws. M3 it was, I think. I managed to get these intruders out and ran the threaded holes through with an original screw. Luckily, I didn't find any damage. I'm looking for a longer Tee Dee screw in order to fit the ally nose cone. Hope you will post some pics of the engine and of the future plane project.

Are screws with this thread available in the U.K.?

Lieven

roko:

The size prop needed depends on the plane flown. it"s not a "one size fits all" proposition.

5X3 may be too small.

What about a fuel pick-up tube and the little spring/filter that goes inside it?

SD

You need a screw to install the crank but not to remove it. You can put it on a drill press and chuck an appropriate sized dowel and press it out. A flat tipped roll pin punch can be used the same way with caution.

I would avoid doing it with a hammer, though some are braver than I.

When you get the crank out, look for the oil groove inside the crankcase tube and clean it out.

I too have a hard time finding the small screws, nuts and washers around here. I've found boxes of 100s on Amazon of all places.
Also a local Fastenal store would be worth a look.

Crank:

Have you tried Ace Hardware? We have one close to us that is well-stocked with hard-to-find bolts, washers, nuts etc.

SD

If you have a Sears Hardware in your area they should carry a variety of sizes as well. I do not believe they are international.

Matt

Matt:

Crank lives in Homestead, Florida not overseas.

SD

Hey Roko,

If you continue to have difficulty finding hardware, I'll throw some stuff together and send it to you if you'd cover the postage.

You can PM me your mailing address and I'll have my friends at the Post Office give an estimate of what it would cost to ship it to you.

Also, there are several great little kits by Blackhawk Models that could be easily be built for flying or display for your father's engine.

Later ! Kim

Thank you very much Kim, however i feel its unfair for you too send me things i can find on the internet for less than 10$

I already own a radio, wich model of those at Blackhawk would be suitable for a begginer?

Roko:

Most of us who have dabbled with these engines for any length of time have amassed a considerable collection of new parts to fit them. Ordering from Bernie or Matt cost no more than $3.95 no matter how much you order.

For example, my most recent order from Bernie was $25 plus $3.95 for shipping.

Live it up and get what you need! That's what our vendors need to stay in business.

SD

Roko wrote:Thank you very much Kim, however i feel its unfair for you too send me things i can find on the internet for less than 10$

I already own a radio, wich model of those at Blackhawk would be suitable for a begginer?

You're welcome, I certainly was not intending to undercut the great guys who keep us going. I was simply going to send you some peripheral hardware, such as some small socket-head screws for engine mounting, an old (but serviceable) wrench that matches them, some 5-40 socket screws from Micro Fastener, and some other off-to-the-side accessories that may prove helpful, and possibly have you bringing more future business to Matt and Bernie.

To my knowledge, the Blackhawk kits are all control line model, most designed by a hero of mine named Walt Musciano.

The price for a flat-rate box (checked this morning) will be right at $25.

It was intended as just an offer to help you get things going.

Kim

SuperDave wrote:Matt:

Crank lives in Homestead, Florida not overseas.

SD

Yes, I only added the international note because some other mentioned other overseas were asking about local places in their areas, and I am not sure if they exist for these types of threads.

Matt