Ebay Ringmaster Resto (finishing pics!)

Ron, the elevator sits directly on top. One common problem of the Ringmaster. Many builders would taper the fuse to improve the blocky look of the fuse and to reduce weight. This is where the problem begins. Almost every Ring I built ends up nose heavy requiring tail weight. Solution: Don't taper the fuse as much on these builds leaving the platform for the stab the full 1/2" width. The stab should be glued using epoxy and staked either using toothpicks or BB-Q skewers through the stab into the fuse. I also put pin prick marks into the fuse on the area of glue on the mating surface of the stab. Reason being, if the Ring take a nose dive, the momentum usually results in the fly swatter affect tearing the tail right off. If the stab comes off, the elevator becomes over extended which now rips your hinges off of the stab. This becomes real problematic if your using pin hinges which in my opinion is the best to use. This is a difficult repair to fix, and it looks very unsightly when repaired. At that point redoing the pin hinge right next to the existing is typically the solution. I would also take 3/8" triangular stock and place a slight radius on the fore and aft corners glued directly underneath the stab on each side of the fuse. This will result in probably the strongest and most reliable joint for your stab. As for the rudder, I don't CA rudders on. Why?, these makes future repairs almost impossible. I use epoxy for that due to the fact it's end grain on the mating surface of the rudder. After it set, a mixture of micro balloons and epoxy preferably 30 min alongside of the rudder to the stab results in a great looking fillet which assists in the side to side flex. Ken