Tomorrow's the big day or how I became a lumberjack!

cribbs74 wrote:

Godsey3.0 wrote:I actually like the rubber band on mount. I converted my Skyray to use one. I would never put a RR 1 on it. But it holds rather nicely and I like to think it has helped save a good number of props.

Yeah I could see that. This Wizard has a glide angle of a lead bullet. I just flew a couple tanks a few mins ago and as soon as the power goes it drops like a rock. Even with full up elevator. Much better with a 5x3 prop on it though. Tighter lines and better pull, a tad more responsive to control inputs but, still lacking.

As far as an RR1 I see no reason not to put one on it it's just pointless to do so as it will fly the same just faster.

My plan for the RR1 is a Veco "Scout"

Ron

The Wizard is a trainer, if you want to learn to stunt, build a stunt model, trying to get a trainer to stunt is against all it's design restrictions, a trainer is deliberately unresponsive, trying to overcome this is a waste of time and effort.
Try a Lil' Jumpin' Bean, or a Baby Flitestreak, just keep the elevator movement down to start with, then once you are happy increase it.

Wilf

When I first started flying mine I was assured by many that it would stunt. I tried several time and got nothing. Lucky I did not break it.

Ivanhoe wrote:

cribbs74 wrote:

Godsey3.0 wrote:I actually like the rubber band on mount. I converted my Skyray to use one. I would never put a RR 1 on it. But it holds rather nicely and I like to think it has helped save a good number of props.

Yeah I could see that. This Wizard has a glide angle of a lead bullet. I just flew a couple tanks a few mins ago and as soon as the power goes it drops like a rock. Even with full up elevator. Much better with a 5x3 prop on it though. Tighter lines and better pull, a tad more responsive to control inputs but, still lacking.

As far as an RR1 I see no reason not to put one on it it's just pointless to do so as it will fly the same just faster.

My plan for the RR1 is a Veco "Scout"

Ron

The Wizard is a trainer, if you want to learn to stunt, build a stunt model, trying to get a trainer to stunt is against all it's design restrictions, a trainer is deliberately unresponsive, trying to overcome this is a waste of time and effort.
Try a Lil' Jumpin' Bean, or a Baby Flitestreak, just keep the elevator movement down to start with, then once you are happy increase it.

Wilf

Your right Wilf, it is a trainer.

I was originally just wondering if anyone had ever got it to stunt before.

Next stop Bean or maybe Baby Ringmaster!

Ron

I love my Baby Ringmaster. Flies excellent. I ended up with a little excess throws for the Babe Bee it originally had on its nose. Now it has a Killer Bee block on a Black Widow tank.

Godsey3.0 wrote:I meant that I would not put a RR 1 on a rubber band mount. Last thing I want is for those bands to let loose and see that RR fly off.

I see......

Good thing is they don't fly too far!

I had a Black Widow detach from a plane on me once. I was running it on a plane to make sure its orientation would work. About 5 seconds after I went behind the plane it ripped off the firewall and shot into the basement. Went about 20ft and hit a piece of wood. Fell to the ground. Then it sat there and spazzed on the ground before it hopped back up and went another 5 ft then it died. Totally ruined the needle valve, and now I am afraid to fly the plane because I do not know if the firewall will pull off again. I epoxied it on the second time. I thought I had the first time as well. Apparently not. I may have just used CA. Lesson Learned!

Godsey3.0 wrote:I had a Black Widow detach from a plane on me once. I was running it on a plane to make sure its orientation would work. About 5 seconds after I went behind the plane it ripped off the firewall and shot into the basement. Went about 20ft and hit a piece of wood. Fell to the ground. Then it sat there and spazzed on the ground before it hopped back up and went another 5 ft then it died. Totally ruined the needle valve, and now I am afraid to fly the plane because I do not know if the firewall will pull off again. I epoxied it on the second time. I thought I had the first time as well. Apparently not. I may have just used CA. Lesson Learned!

Apart from the bent NV that may be the funniest thing I ever read

I was in total shock when it happened. I had picked up the plane to feel the pull of the engine and it just left. That little BW really wanted to run though. Flopped like a fish for several seconds and hopped up then took off till it hit a table. While I sat there and held the plane looking ridiculous with my mouth draped open.

I always build firewalls reinforced with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. You shouldn't have any pullouts with that. Whenever I pull an engine off, I plug the old screw holes with epoxy and bore new pilot holes. They grip the screws really well. Blind nuts and machine screws are best, but it makes reconfiguring harder.

RknRusty wrote:I always build firewalls reinforced with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. You shouldn't have any pullouts with that. Whenever I pull an engine off, I plug the old screw holes with epoxy and bore new pilot holes. They grip the screws really well. Blind nuts and machine screws are best, but it makes reconfiguring harder.

That's a darn good idea Rusty!

My chainsaw is running good! So good it's a shame to not use it. If you have never cut down a Cedar before it's a pain in the rear. Branches everywhere growing in every direction. You kinda have to cut your way in and then then work around the base. Anyway, I should now be able to go with 35-40' lines without issue. Probably more than I will ever need with 1/2A but, who knows what I will be building in the future.

Ron

Room to play!

Red Cedar chips are big money on this side of the coast, along with the cedar wood itself. A 60' tree can fetch in the neighborhood of $10k+ per. My buddy has about 3 on his property that he is going to knock down for shop space as well as shop money.

PV Pilot wrote:Room to play!

Red Cedar chips are big money on this side of the coast, along with the cedar wood itself. A 60' tree can fetch in the neighborhood of $10k+ per. My buddy has about 3 on his property that he is going to knock down for shop space as well as shop money.

That's funny, pretty much a trash tree in these parts. I am going to turn it into mulch.