Qtee scratch build

continuing with the construction I started with the fuselage. The first thing I did was cut the bulkheads in 3mm hardwood and place the engine mount. after this cut the two sides of the fuselage and locate the wing support. all this following the step by step of the construction that is published next to the plan in the outer zone site

I continue with the construction ...
With the wing supports glued in place it is time to put the two sides of the fuselage together, for this I take all measures to ensure that they are as well aligned as possible. At this point I usually use aliphatic glue since it gives me time to correct any misalignment errors.
after that. I glued the landing gear support, this is another modification that I make since this system gives me more security than sewing the wire as the plane suggests.

271/5000
Continuing with the construction and with some pieces already finished it is time to put everything together so that it starts to look like an airplane ...
Regarding the subject of the landing gear, it is built with 3mm piano string.
So far nothing complicated at the moment.

When finished, it is time to locate the servos and the fuel tank. Finish the front of the fuse and continue with the wing.

You go Nico !! Love to see these new builds of any kind . Scratch builders are most admired by me . Thanks for posting , your build looks real nice . I'll be watching ...

Mike1484

OK Nico, I caught up with you here. Looking really good. I'm watching too.

Nice build Nico. Will you use blind nuts to fix the engine mount on the firewall? I suggest you add a doubler to the firewall that goes through the most torture during the plane's life...drenched in castor and stressed by vibrations and engine torque and thrust..all planes I have built so far had their firewalls strengthened by extra doublers and I can say it is worth it.
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Keep posting, I also like your build

Andras

I like watching members builds and seeing the creation of another model. Most of my balsa builds are control line but the postings for RC builds are pushing me that way rather than my obsession with foamies.

Interesting though - I see that you are a fuselage first builder - I almost always start wing first, followed be tailplane and have these covered before moving on to the fuselage.

These builds are inspirations and this is a very nice one.

hi andras
You are right in what you tell me about double the firewall. What I forget to tell is once the firewall is attached to the sides of the fuselage I have put fiberglass cloth with epoxy resin. This gives an incredible resistance while not adding weight to the structure.
Over time this model was sold to an enthusiast who saw me fly it in an RC aircraft event. He liked it so much that he accept the price that I asked him for and he paid it to me immediately (obviously without the engine, fuel tank and electronics, just the fuse structure and the wing), this man asked me to install a cox shure start rc he had. When I installed it, I put a more wooden reinforcement to the F1, which I leave it made of a wood- epoxy- wood sandwich.
With regard to the issue of blind nuts, where I live it is extremely difficult to get accessories for the assembly of the models. This often leads us to have to use the imagination to find solutions to problems with the things we have available. (Ask Mauricio if this is true ...   ).
In this case, use common nuts which are then glued with epoxy to the f1.
later I continue uploading photographs of the construction process.
If someone can tell me how to upload more than 3 pictures at the same time I would appreciate it.
Cheers

Thanks Nico. Can you post a picture about that fiberglass reinforcement? I also have to resort to Do-it-yourself improvisations because glow engine model building is almost extinct in Hungary and the very few model shops are left with a narrow choice of stock items.

For posting pictures click on the blue icon that looks like a floppy disc, select the files from your computer one by one, click on Send all, then click on Insert all and you are done...good luck.

continuing with the construction, I share with some images of the F1 fiberglass reinforcement. Another thing that I want to tell you is that I have in my models custom to fuelproof the entire area where the fuel tank goes as well as the area of the engine with epoxy resin, in case of any loss of fuel the wood does not get embedded in oil.
I do this by preparing two-part of 30 min epoxy and diluting this mixture with alcohol until it is liquid. This allows me to paint all the areas with this mixture
and for being liquid, the wood absorbs everything. when everything dries, the wood is not only fuellproof but also super strong



.in the images you can see the fiberglass fabric. the nuts is the last thing I glue before installing the front front top sheet

Now the wing construction. I modified it a bit since I did not quite convince the original design with a single main spar.
Another thing is that I didn't have wood to carve the leading edge , so with all this I decided to build it the same way I do it on my other models.
The first thing was to cut the ribs, for which I always make a couple of hardwood templates, then assemble a sandwich with all the woods and pass it through the sander. Finally, with a thin file I make the holes where the main spars are placed.

Now is the time for the fun part ... start assembling the wing.
over the plane covered with a transparent film I install the leading edge, the bottom frontal sheeting and  the trailing edge bottom sheeting. With this located in its place, the lower central main spar and the ribs are placed. I like to fix everything with CA so everything is fixed in place and then glue everything with aliphatic glue.




A detail of the previous image. In the center of the wing there is a filling with balsa. I did it to cut the center according to the plan.

Very Nice build thread sorry to hear you don't have the model no more but sure there will bee more ! i thenk you can only post 3 pics. at a time , all server will do lolo

After you have inserted the three pictures, click “remove all” - then upload another three and insert into text.

Works for me - used to be able to do six at a time but now three seems to be the limit for each “session”

with everything glued in place it is time to install the top sheeting, sand the leading edge and join the two halves of the wing.
For this I have as a custom to make a pair of hardwood reinforcements, which I stick with aliphatic glue. after that I fill everything with filler paste and give it a final sanding so that everything is smooth.
finally place the fiberglass reinforcement in the center of the wing

With all this finished the wing is quite light and super rigid. Now is the time to start with the cover.
For this I always use top flite monokote. I chose the color scheme according to pt19 since I always liked this one.
I have the custom to finally put the top cover of the fuselage when I have all the control rods installed and tested, so everything moves smoothly and without interference.
I made the pushrods with wooden rods and piano string.

a couple more photos ...
Another detail ... one thing that has given me excellent results is to make the hinges with monokote. This has two advantages.
1- do not deal with the installation of nylon hinges
2- there is no place for fuel to enter.





With this installed it is time to finish the upper back and the front of the fuselage and aply monokote to everything

With the whole model finished I found myself in the need to add some lead under the engine to achieve the correct CG. With all this the model weighs approximately 21 oz.
A couple of things I learned with this model, which applies to the following is that it is built to withstand the blows that a beginner can give it. so the structure is quite over reinforced and on the other hand the wooden and piano rope pushrods are negative for this type of models since it significantly increases the weight of the back of the model which leads to having to add more lead to get a correct CG. In later constructions I improved these details without losing rigidity and managed to substantially lower the final weight of the plane without the need to add lead to make it perfect for the flight.

Beautiful plane there..!

Nico try to position the battery towards the front instead of adding ballast. Or bend the landing gear forward to have the weight of wheels and gear more in the front.

21 ounce is not bad but will impact the flying characteristics. Adding shimming plates made from light plastic under the engine mount top for a down thrust, or some down-trimming of the elevator to balance the CG is still better in my opinion than adding lead to the payload. I would at least try.

hi andras
I don't have the plane with me anymore, I sold it a while ago. the battery (which was 4 AAA Ni-MH) had them located as far as possible (almost in contact with F1), so and everything was necessary lead. With respect to the incidence of the engine, fortunately it was well estimated, since the model had no tendency to raise the nose when the engine rpm increased. and when the engine ran out of fuel it was a delight to glide ... almost all the time, hand off except when there was a turn.
I share some of the photos of the plane (many send them to the outerzone site for publication). At some point I will try to share a couple of videos that I have.

This is one of the few videos I have of the plane flying. Keep in mind that my father was filming so don't expect anything of high qualitty.
Despite the abrupt end, the model did not happen nothing at all.
Cheers

Nice video Nico...