cox golden bee circa 1970-1972

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:54 am

hi, i just recently purchased a vintage single channel rc airplane with the old bonner escapement mechanism and the airplane has a cox golden bee .049 from 1970-1972 it has a blacked anodized drive plate at a old top flite 6x3 white plastic prop.
i can not get the engine to start, if anyone could help with suggestions that would be great. heres is what i am doing to start the engine as is the same with all my other cox engines. i open the needle valve 3 1/2 turns as recomended, i use fuel from the cox 400 cans from 1985 (the fuel is still good, it works with my baby bee engine). i have the glow clip igniter with the wires soldered to a 4 "aa" battery pack, the glow plug is getting pretty hot, i checked it. i do not have the recoil starter spring and i have changed the cylinder head from the old cox heads becuase all of mine were burnt out, and i replaced it with a cylider head that is from a norvel .061 rc engine, the engine has great compession and is like new Very Happy

this head is similar to what bernie is selling at cox international.
i probly should also mention that the engine will start and will run for about 10-20 seconds, at really low rpm, im talken around 100rpm, and when i adjust the needle, the engine does not respond to any needle adjustments i make.
please help me, i really want this thing to run, i have wanted a golden bee for over a year now. i just want to see it run.

p.s. can anyone tell me how long this engine might run with 8cc of fuel at an altitude if 1 mile
thankyou for any help

**Cribbs74** Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:16 am

Since this a new to you engine, have yoi broken it down and cleaned it up? Sounds like it's running off prime and not drawing fuel through the pickup. At the very least pull thr backplate off and clean the NVA to ensure pickup. Also while your there clean the reed and ensure it is functioning correctly.

WingingIt74 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:16 am

I just got one not to long ago also. Make sure your fuel system is good to go. My fuel passages in the backplate where clogged. I'd start there first. I believe I used a 5/64" drill bit to clean the tube nipple out with on the back plate.

SuperDave Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:18 am

When all else fails, read the "Touble Shooting Guide" from Cox International.

http://coxengines.ca/CMG.pdf

(you probably need to clean the reed and the needle seat)

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:23 am

i replaced the reed valve with a current mylar reed, and th nipples on the tank are clear

WingingIt74 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:27 am

Did you blast air through them to be sure? I thought the same thing on mine.

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:28 am

let me check

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:30 am

the nipples on the tank are clean as a whistle

**Cribbs74** Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:37 am

Ok, but have you cleaned the fuel pickup nipple? As in pulled the fuel tube off and cleaned the hole?

WingingIt74 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:39 am

cribbs74 wrote:Ok, but have you cleaned the fuel pickup nipple? As in pulled the fuel tube off and cleaned the hole?

Yes, sorry, that's the nipple I was meaning, thanks for clarifying that.

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:43 am

oh snap the old fuel line in the engine just broke Sad

, could i use a normal peice of "small" size fuel line and the fuel pick up spring to replace the origonal fuel pickup line, or do i have to order a new pick up line?

andrew Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:43 am

EDIT: Submitted after the previous post. Any closely fitting fuel tubing will work nicely. I usually cut the pickup end on an angle so that it does not seat flush against the backplate --- just re-insert the spring.

The other guys are pointing you in the right direction, since it really sounds like a fuel flow problem. In addition to the fuel nipples on the tank, you can have congealed castor oil in the venturi tube, partially blocking the spraybar hole, in the nipple on the inside of the backplate and in the needle seat itself. Since you have already have had the engine apart to replace the reed, disassembly and a thorough soaking of the tank parts, backplate and needle are in order. After soaking, compressed air can help break loose some blockages.

I try to never use anything metal during the cleaning process, preferring round toothpicks or bamboo skewers to dislodge castor clumps.

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:45 am

ok ill try that in a lil bit

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:48 am

i think im just gonna order the baby bee tank over hall kit from bernie at cox international, i need the gaskets anyway and its only $5

microflitedude Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:56 am

Are you sure your battery pack is wired correctly? In Parallel? Is it flipping back-and-forth between TDC?

nitroairplane Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:57 am

Either way it should work.

WingingIt74 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:57 am

mitchg95 wrote:i think im just gonna order the baby bee tank over hall kit from bernie at cox international, i need the gaskets anyway and its only $5

That's what I did. The inside of that nipple is 5/64" and was easy to clean out with a drill bit and thumb drill.

WingingIt74 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:58 am

microflitedude wrote:Are you sure your battery pack is wired correctly? In Parallel? Is it flipping back-and-forth between TDC?

No, you have to switch one of the 3 wires so it turns the opposite direction Smile

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:59 am

microflitedude wrote:Are you sure your battery pack is wired correctly? In Parallel? Is it flipping back-and-forth between TDC?

i believe that it is Huh...

, ya engine does flip back and forth beetween bdc and tdc

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:00 pm

WingingIt74 wrote:
microflitedude wrote:Are you sure your battery pack is wired correctly? In Parallel? Is it flipping back-and-forth between TDC?

No, you have to switch one of the 3 wires so it turns the opposite direction

3 wires

theres only 2 positive and negative leads lol!

WingingIt74 Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:01 pm

mitchg95 wrote:
WingingIt74 wrote:
microflitedude wrote:Are you sure your battery pack is wired correctly? In Parallel? Is it flipping back-and-forth between TDC?

No, you have to switch one of the 3 wires so it turns the opposite direction

3 wires theres only 2 positive and negative leads

You'll have to turn the motor around then, you have it backwards Smile

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:04 pm

motor backwards? do you mean flip the prop clockwise instead if counter clockwise?

microflitedude Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:09 pm

You guys are funny. Very Happy

Is the piston not completing the stroke - moving up-and-down between Top Dead Center. This is the result of too much compression. How many head gaskets you got in there? Try adding couple. That Norvel head could be too much.

mitchg95 Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:11 pm

microflitedude wrote:You guys are funny.

Is the piston not completing the stroke - moving up-and-down between Top Dead Center. This is the result of too much compression. How many head gaskets you got in there? Try adding couple. That Norvel head could be too much.

i dont have my tools with me right now, but i believe there is 2 head gaskets

WingingIt74 Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:12 pm

microflitedude wrote:You guys are funny.

Is the piston not completing the stroke - moving up-and-down between Top Dead Center. This is the result of too much compression. How many head gaskets you got in there? Try adding couple. That Norvel head could be too much.

My 051 was doing that a few times yesterday, just pop'n back and forth, I thought it was pretty funny. It did that when it was out of fuel and I tried starting it.

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cox golden bee circa 1970-1972

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