Roddie's 1/2A control-lines

Marleysky wrote:Eat more cashews, use empty can #2.  

Refer to previous thread: https://www.coxengineforum.com/t9893-control-line-reels?highlight=Line+reels

Shop e bay: outdoor kite winder.   $5.05 free shipping
   

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Outdoor-Kite-Line-Winder-Winding-Reel-Grip-Wheel-Ballbearing-Handle-Tool-New-uuy-/152602046411?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

Thanks Rene.. Your 1st suggestion has teeth.. I'd rather not have to mail-order something if I don't have to. Most flyers are prepared with spare/"purpose-made" line-reels. Maybe I can make-up a reel using some cardboard-discs and hot-melt glue.

roddie wrote:Getting ready to use 15 lb. Dyneema-braid (fishing-line) to fly my small 1/2A models. I'm planning on using a single 60-65 foot length of line running "through" a lightweight handle for two lines that are 30-32 feet long. I'd rather not wind the lines around the handle.. and I don't have an empty reel. When we had the first CEF Reed Speed contest.. I made-up a 42' two-line set that I have wrapped-around a "Planters" cashew-can..

Any suggestions..?

good luck Roddie, can't wait to see the flight report

akjgardner wrote:

roddie wrote:Getting ready to use 15 lb. Dyneema-braid (fishing-line) to fly my small 1/2A models. I'm planning on using a single 60-65 foot length of line running "through" a lightweight handle for two lines that are 30-32 feet long. I'd rather not wind the lines around the handle.. and I don't have an empty reel. When we had the first CEF Reed Speed contest.. I made-up a 42' two-line set that I have wrapped-around a "Planters" cashew-can..  

Any suggestions..?

good luck Roddie, can't wait to see the flight report

Thanks much Joe.. As per usual.. I'm applying the "Roddie-redneck" method to making my own reel..



stay tuned......

As Carly would say "Anticipation is making me wait".

rsv1cox wrote:As Carly would say "Anticipation is making me wait".  

Behold.. the "triple-R" (Roddie Redneck Reel)......






I just need to cut a slit for the airplane-end terminations..

Tuned in waiting...

You should start calling these posts:  Roddie's Redneck Tips  

I guess I posted this in the wrong thread.
I saw it mentioned somewhere and found the pic. Maybe it was in the 1/2A Skyray thread. Well, maybe whoever it was will see it here.

• Can't see it but there is a guy line to keep from tipping it over.
  
• Rubber on the inside. Works better after it gets greasy.
  
• Bungee slides in place behind the TE so it won't rotate.
  
• Brick also trails TE and adds stability.
  
• Release the plane by stepping backward, wait till the stab clears the table and apply partial UP elevator(Not Full UP). Do not yank, it should slide out.
  

If your plane is underpowered, bungee the table to the top of a bar stool.

Nice job roddie! Look just like the ones you can buy, but for only a fraction of the cost. My post is rather funny now that I see yours just above mine. You must have just been hitting 'Post' as I was typing mine. Anyways, thanks for sharing and I will probably build myself a couple too.

NEW222 wrote:Nice job roddie! Look just like the ones you can buy, but for only a fraction of the cost. My post is rather funny now that I see yours just above mine. You must have just been hitting 'Post' as I was typing mine. Anyways, thanks for sharing and I will probably build myself a couple too.

Thanks Chancey! It wasn't very hard to make. The outer-discs I made from the heavy cardboard that you find on the back of a note-pad. Heavy-grade poster-board would also work. I traced the plastic-lid from a peanut can for the size.. (4" diameter) The two inner-discs I made from corrugated cardboard. I traced the plastic-lid from a Pringle's potato-chip can (3" diameter), The plastic-lids have a center-dimple which I pierced with an awl. This allows marking/ piercing all the cardboard discs on-center.. for alignment when gluing.

It's important when gluing the discs together.. that there are no gaps that the control-lines could slip-between. I cut a short piece of tubing/bushing for the sheet-metal screw that runs through the center.. to avoid the coarse threads chewing-up the cardboard while cranking the handle. The sheet-metal screw was sized for the little wooden spool that I had. A small round cabinet-knob would work with a short screw and flat-washer. The crank-handle is just a short length/piece of 5/16" hardwood dowel.. glued into a drilled-hole approximately 1-1/4" from the center of the reel to accept it.

I think I'll install a strip of hook & loop to secure the line-terminations while winding them on.