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Post  roddie Tue Jun 07, 2016 11:25 am

I needed to make a repair to our swimming pool pump yesterday. Earlier last week I dragged the pump up from the cellar to connect it up with the pool and filter. The pump motor has a grounding bracket on the outside top of the case which accepts two solid copper ground wires; one from the electrical box and one from the metal base-channel that runs the bottom perimeter of the pool. These lay side by side in the bracket.. and are held secure by one screw between them. This is called "bonding". When tightening that screw.. the threads in the motor-case stripped-out. Rolling Eyes

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The pump/pool was in place when we bought the property 5 years ago.. but I've always brought the pump in out of the weather when closing every Fall. Hopefully this was the only issue with it so far. I gathered up the tools needed and the repair went pretty well. My center-punch spacing was slightly off.. so after I drilled/tapped the two new holes, I couldn't get both screws to thread-in.. so I elongated one of the holes in the bracket with a rat-tail file. Rolling Eyes no big deal.

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Done.. just need to seal-up the old holes.

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This took about an hour of my time. I wonder what this would have cost to have done.. An honest pool company might have tested the pump and made the repair that "I" made.. (probably at a fair cost of at least $100) or they might have tried to sell us a new pump for probably $200+ (not including labor).

The first year.. we had a pool company open the pool because the PO had allowed the cover to fall in.. and there were leaves, sticks and other debris... (two unfortunate squirrels that were bloated to the size of rabbits.. silent ) but fortunately there were no major issues.. just labor and the cost of new hoses. The pool company advised us to backfill some areas where the bottom channel that holds the walls was exposed due to drip-erosion from the rain running off the top-rails. Further erosion could lead to the wall collapsing (blowing-out).. Shocked so I decided to "edge" the perimeter with granite cobbles laid on edge.. and backfill with crushed stone. That was a project...


my leveling-tool..
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stone-dust..
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Lynne helps backfill with white marble-chips.
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overkill with floral-accents last year..  Smile
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Post  ian1954 Tue Jun 07, 2016 11:42 am

Hi Roddie,

Are you going to cover up the old holes? I also usually put vaseline or grease on exposed terminals to protect them from corrosion.

It is a nice pool. How many months of the year can you use it?
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Post  1/2A Nut Tue Jun 07, 2016 2:39 pm

Where are all the metal shavings now? You can't tap the case without taking it apart first.

Grounding out the motor case is important specially around water. The Green corrosion and rust
all deter a good ground. the #8 copper wire goes to a ground rod you need to check the connection
there as well.  Bad connection at the ground rod is common over time. If there is solid pressure
between two metal parts typically the copper will not corrode.

Back in the day a High Voltage Power Linesman Died due to a bad pole ground the neutral squeeze on
connector had gone bad the pole ground was the back up it went bad and started crystallizing the ground.
He touched the pole ground it shifted and everything went through his heart burned up 3 of his 4 heart valves.
I was standing 3ft from him when it happened. Better maintenance and keen eye to suspect issue would have
saved him an active ground rod must be maintained. Visual inspection of all connectors is key if (source) power is
off physical wiggling for looseness may be performed and is ideal, clean (electrical wire brush or emory cloth / tighten as needed.
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Post  roddie Tue Jun 07, 2016 7:35 pm

ian1954 wrote:Hi Roddie,

Are you going to cover up the old holes? I also usually put vaseline or grease on exposed terminals to protect them from corrosion.

It is a nice pool. How many months of the year can you use it?

Hi Ian, just above the repaired ("Done") photo.. I mentioned the need to seal the old holes.

My wife uses the pool.. I'm not much for it. She floats around for hours.. gazing up at the canopy of Oak and Birch trees that encircle 2/3 of the area around the pool. I delayed opening this season to avoid those "stringy" Oak tassels that can clog a skimmer-basket in the course of a few hours. Depending on the season; three months is the average expectancy for use. The month of May was breezy, cool and wet this year. September can be warm enough.. sometimes. Labor Day is generally the last weekend for swimming-pools here in New England.

Brad, I didn't concern myself with taking the motor apart to drill/tap the two new holes. The hoses were all connected and full of water before I encountered the problem. I thought about it.. but the lug is right at the end of the case.. away from the armature. It's an old pump.. and there was likely the risk of something else breaking, had I taken it apart. I was careful and used oil when I drilled and a wax-type tap-lubricant.. which retained most of the shavings. The pump has been running for the last 24 hours.. so it's too late to do anything about it now anyway. The lug at the pool is buried.. but I'll check the one at the box. The circuit is protected by a GFCI as per local code. Thanks for the info/concern.

I forgot to mention this nifty little wireless pool thermometer. It is made by "Vio Products" model #11000. This is it's 4th season.. cost $10.. and the batteries (x2 AA/ea. unit) last all season. Interestingly; it expressly mentions using alkaline batteries in the pool-unit for proper floatation.

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The white-colored unit is the transmitter which floats in the pool.. and the grey unit is the receiver which stays in the house. It has a range of up to 100 feet and operating temp. of 32F to 122F. It requires a set-up procedure each season which involves a particular sequence of battery-installation and pushing a reset button inside the floating unit within 3 minutes. The receiver then displays/searches for one of 3 preset channels; selectable via a switch (also inside the floating unit). It's quite well made for what it cost. The LCD display is large on both units.. and the indoor unit also displays the indoor temp. below the pool temp. There are two buttons; one for man. scan/search and the other for min./max./reset for both indoor/pool temps. The pool unit sees 3-4 months of weather/season.. and the gasket between the top/bottom halves is still flexible and shows no signs of deterioration. The 5 screws which hold it together are SS.. and none of the interior circuitry shows any signs of corrosion. I really appreciate a product (particularly electronic..) that's well made. I've had Mp3 and DVD players die within a year.. Crying or Very sad



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