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Post  Godsey3.0 Fri Dec 16, 2011 7:00 pm

Does anyone know much about the RC Bee or the Dragonfly tank? I ran my RC Bee and it would not tune. I would open the needle valve and it would not slow down. The nva is fine. I am thinking it is missing a part. There is nothing to restrict the air flow. It has a hole in front of the nv and if you stick something into it you can look where the reed goes and you can see the object. It is a fairly large whole. Am I missing a part? Does anyone have one of these engines and can take pics of it?
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Post  dckrsn Fri Dec 16, 2011 7:19 pm

Godsey3.0 wrote:Does anyone know much about the RC Bee or the Dragonfly tank? I ran my RC Bee and it would not tune. I would open the needle valve and it would not slow down. The nva is fine. I am thinking it is missing a part. There is nothing to restrict the air flow. It has a hole in front of the nv and if you stick something into it you can look where the reed goes and you can see the object. It is a fairly large whole. Am I missing a part? Does anyone have one of these engines and can take pics of it?

Afaik, Cox used the rotating muffler for throttle control on the RC Bee.

Maybe there's nothing missing, and you have an air/fuel leak somewhere.

I always wanted one with the cast crankcase.

Nice looking engine,......... but that's just me.Neutral


Last edited by dckrsn on Fri Dec 16, 2011 7:45 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Post  dckrsn Fri Dec 16, 2011 7:32 pm

RC Bee issues Cox_rcbee_049

This is the one I was refering to. I'd chuck the snap starter though.

Bob
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Post  Jaspur_x Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:04 am

Let me see if I have this straight, you opened up the nv how far and it didn`t have effect? because by 1 full turn it should be on its way to flooding out, did you turn the needle in to see if it would lean out/ I`m going to assume not because turning the needle in after a turn or so whith any 049 I have/had leans it out and on toward too lean if not shutting her down too lean; all results depending on where you start with the needle of course.

I have not had this particular engine, but it is basically just another tanked reedie with a throttle sleeve.

So this is in fact an odd performance hiccup,has it always done this from new(did you get it new or used), or did it just recently develope this trait?
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Post  nitroairplane Sat Dec 17, 2011 4:54 am

This is odd.
Have you checked the needle valve isn't too long?
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Post  Godsey3.0 Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:34 am

Whenever I open the needle valve it almost seems as it revs up. The thing is that the needle valve on this one cannot control the flow of air. There is a formed hole right in from of it that leads to hole the reed covers.
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Post  nitroairplane Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:39 am

Godsey3.0 wrote:Whenever I open the needle valve it almost seems as it revs up. The thing is that the needle valve on this one cannot control the flow of air. There is a formed hole right in from of it that leads to hole the reed covers.

that's odd do you have any pictures?
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Post  Godsey3.0 Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:50 am

The object I was just now sticking through the hole was a screw. You can barely see it. And please note, it is in FRONT of the needle valve. The screw was a bit large so it did not go far.


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Post  nitroairplane Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:25 am

Looks like something should slide in there over the air intake hole.
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Post  tubebass Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:07 am

Got a Dragonfly last week and the tank is as shown in your pix, so I don't think you have any missing parts.
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Post  GermanBeez Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:18 am

i've got an idea, its probably the same issue i have with my texaco...does it have a venturi gasket like the bees?
then it could be that its leaking from there (fuel is constantly dripping into the intake channel, and
the engine runs whether the valve is open or not)
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Post  Godsey3.0 Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:34 am

There is no venturi gasket.
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Post  nitroairplane Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:39 am

[quote="Godsey3.0"]There is no venturi gasket.[/quote


As in there is not supposed to be one or there is one missing?
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Post  Godsey3.0 Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:41 am

I do not see where one could go. The whole assembly is on molded piece. The only part that can come off is the needle valve and the thing the nv sits in which is glued in or pressed in.
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Post  nitroairplane Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:54 am

Oh well I know that you have a sealing problem somewhere maybe crankcase seal problem.
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Post  GermanBeez Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:56 am

hmmm...that IS a pickle...
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Post  nitroairplane Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:59 am

GermanBeez wrote:hmmm...that IS a pickle...

Well get a DC backplate and try to run it and if it will run the problem is with the tank.
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Post  Godsey3.0 Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:28 am

I have put an engine that I know runs on the tank and it did not run right so it is the tank. Maybe Mudhen can fix it.
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Post  Cox International Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:36 am

We have come across various (non-tanked) engines where RPM's would fluctuate. Almost always it was due to a cracked spraybar seal, causing an air leak.

Switch the tank assembly with a production backplate from an engine that runs well and see if the engine then runs properly.

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Post  nitroairplane Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:39 am

But they can't use a standard backplate can they?
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Post  Cox International Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:46 am

Yes, standard grey backplate is fine but one must use the DC reed retainer as well as the DC crankcase gasket.

One can also use the black backplates but an extra DC crankcase gasket must be inserted underneath the reed retainer as a spacer to allow the reed to "breathe" (the black backplates have shorter "posts" that the grey ones.

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Post  Mudhen Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:48 am

.


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Post  Cox International Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:20 pm

The grey, black and red backplates ARE "standard" backplates. Like the ones on the Surestart engines.

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