Another Newb Needs Model Identification Help!

NEW222 wrote:And this is exactly how it starts for some.  Once you spend the money to hear it run, you will like the sound.  I thought about starting to collect, but then why?  I do not have anybody other than my father to help me launch and he is barely around at the same time.  And when he is, it seems to usually get too windy to fly.  So I get as much air time in when available.  And when not, I am running these things on the bench in the garage, almost daily.

P.S.  Wait till you hear that awesome sound, and smell!

You need to build a stooge. Never have to rely on anyone to launch again.

Hey Hatter.
Fuel is plentiful. Here are 3 examples. Any number of quarts can be shipped with no hazmat fee.

Sig Champion, 25% or 35% nitro in the quart size PN# SIGCF016
http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/ProductsV6.html?L+Sig+giaq4796+_Ddp_5fSearch1_02a41FuelSigChampion_01Search_02Index_01SubMenu_02NONE_01Menu_02CatProd_01Thumb_02Fuel_20_2d_20Airplane_01

Tower Hobbies Cox Super power fue, 25% or 35%
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDBNH&P=FR&gclid=CjwKEAjwiZitBRCy0pb3rIbG9XwSJACmuvvzPhiIu2g3H_i1l76GiGxBeTDGkrGLi0_vub_7-EmGdxoCgjrw_wcB

Glowplug Boy 25% or 35% nitro
http://fitzfuels.com/index.php?id_manufacturer=2&controller=manufacturer

Oh dude! Yes! That's perfect. WAY better pricing than I've seen. Thank you, good lookin out!

Cribbs74 wrote:

You need to build a stooge. Never have to rely on anyone to launch again.

Im assuming a stooge is something that acts as someone helping you start your flight? Lol.

It's interesting to note, that all three manufacturers list the percentage of ingredients, Tower and Sig are identical, but Glowboy has 7% more caster, which is same as the old Cox formula.

PlaidHatter wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:

You need to build a stooge. Never have to rely on anyone to launch again.

Im assuming a stooge is something that acts as someone helping you start your flight? Lol.

This is the Stooge type I am working on (YES I AM WOORKING ON IT ) here is a link from inside the forum https://www.coxengineforum.com/t1189-control-line-stooge?highlight=stooge

Mark Boesen wrote:It's interesting to note, that all three manufacturers list the percentage of ingredients, Tower and Sig are identical, but Glowboy has 7% more caster, which is same as the old Cox formula.

Yeah, Fitz figured since there was already ample fuel available with half synth and castor, he'd cater to tha all castor lovers... well, almost all. Until you showed us those Cox mixing logs, I never knew the original Cox fuel had any synthetic. Though it is only a tiny amount. I've started using his Glowplugboy in my TD .051 which has been getting low on compression, to try and varnish it up a little. Just to see if it makes any difference, good or bad.
Rusty

Did my first little "modification" I guess, if you want to call it that. I sanded the crankcase where it mates with the tank. I noticed when taking it apart that there was a decent sized lift in the aluminum around the holes, I'm assuming from when they were initially tapped. It's as smooth as, well, something that's pretty smooth. Lol.

You'll have to show me how that stooge works, I'm interested!

Ok so speaking of fuel, I went down to my only local hobby shop that claims to specialize in airplane and helicopter models and picked up a prop (which the center bore seems too large, even with the supplied adapters. I don't believe this will be an issue since I can easily make my own centering/balancing adapter.)
I also picked up a bottle of O'Donnell "High Performance Racing Fuel", I wasn't thinking til the drive home that I should have checked out the mixture beforehand, I just went with what the shop owner recommended since he seemed so confident and said this was ready to go and I wouldn't need to add anything. So when I got home I looked over it, and here's what I got. Please tell me this is sufficient fuel or that at most I'll only need to add a little something that's cheap and easy to find.

As I have just gotten back into the swing of things, and I have been reading about fuel and ingredients needed, I will have to say that you will definitely need castor, and a bit of it. I was in the same boat here as well. Synthetic is not known to be good by itself. The Sig fuel is 20% oil, 50:50 synthetic : castor. There are calculators online that I too have been playing with and I need castor as well. I am sure someone with a lot more knowledge than I will chime in. So until then, please don't take what I have said as gospel, but only from my recent readings here.

Don't open it and get your money back.

If he carries VP racing fuel you can use Master Basher 20-35% nitro and add Castor to that. It has 9% oil content castor synth blend. Just need to up that to 20% with castor.

The guy in the hobby shop clearly doesn't know what he's talking about. Something running high nitro with only 8% full synthetic oil would only be suitable for max power in a car/buggy engine where you would expect to replace it after every couple of races. This fuel would fry your Cox on the first run. Don't use it. Heaps of castor oil would need to be added to make it acceptible for a Cox, but then it would lower the nitro content significantly. Anything over about 10%-15% nitro will run fine in a Cox but you'd have to do the calculations.

Also, if the prop he sold you has a large centre hole and adaptors, it sounds like an electric motor prop. Once again, don't use it. Electrics run smooth and don't need the strength to withstand the power pulses of a combustion engine. It could shatter at high speed.

Unfortunately, too many people running shops these days think they're experts but the know zip about the stuff we all play with.

Rod.

I've ran Sig fuel with 20% oil, half caster and half synthetic and never had a problem, but was never out every week with them. If i was running them a lot and want as long of engine life as possible, i'd prefer 18% caster with 2% synthetic, the way Cox designed their fuel.
I've read/seen varnish as the result of lean runs, where synthetic will usually vaporize and leave very little metal on metal protection, while the castor would leave a varnish on metal surface.

Plaid, there's a great article posted as a sticky on engine performance/hop-ups worth reading: https://www.coxengineforum.com/t753-the-revised-2011-gibeault-mouse-race-program

Also, i saw your post on Plexiglas motor mount, 1/4" is probably just fine, i'd be a little careful torquing the screws down, but it would easy to clean oil off of. Look how flimsy plastic motor mounts are on plastic RTF planes, the Plexiglas would be a lot heavier duty.

At second glance if you add 4.6 oz of castor to that O'Donnell fuel it will up the oil content to 20% total oil with 12% of that being castor.

The nitro content will drop to 17.5% which is good enough for bench work.

I thought the oil content said 18% Synth when I posted earlier, sorry.

have to say your just like me, I got an old Cox eliminator 2 from my uncle and seen how that the crank only work with the flywheel/gear so, I bought a used medallion the only problem was it didn't have stock needle valve so it didn't want to start it was way to finicky (after I cleaned it all out with hopped no.9) thank got it didn't run because I used full synthetic atleast there was a higher oil content but after I cleaned it out then used after run oil. Anyway I have a losi Mini t and I am curious of putting the product engine in it. But I'm not going to do that yet maybe in the future...... But I have gotten a medallion 09 and tee Dee 09 so I wound up building a plane from corregated plastic board like a plastic cardboard i do have to say I never really wanted a plane as much as a car but now I am dying to try it but I just need the alerons and elavator servos and Bart. Pack for it and the linkages, I put a weight in the front and tryed throwing it like a paper airplane and just glided amazingly so.. my tee Dee 09 I'll put on display purposes only maybe test stand runs but I'll use the medallion, or my black widow (based of yours and came out after but its just Little more higher in performance) and I might use my favorite one, my 051 tee Dee. I always thought how amazing it was to have an inch 1/2 x inch 1/2 engine that runs. (I really want a 010 so bad but that will have to wait. Because I am restoring a Ford 8n tractor so don't have to much time or money now. Here's the link for the plane in case you're ever interested: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vh8rHPJ6PrM

Thanks guys, shortly after my last post I put the fuel back in my car to return tomorrow. It didn't really look like he had much fuel at all. On a very large bottom shelf sat two lone bottles of fuel several feet apart, this one and a different type. At first he told me that the Cox engines are so old that he wouldn't have anything for them, and then told me he had popellers, and then asked if I had fuel and suggested this. So it sounds like he was just trying to make sure he got a sale where there otherwise wasn't one.
Online the reviews for the shop (Victors Hobbies, btw) said that they can order anything that they don't stock, so hopefully he can order me the right fuel.

TopBanana, yeah I'm sure we're very similar, I've already started looking around for another cheap bee to start building on and modifying so I can leave this one stock and have a 'control' to base gains off of. It's just in my blood. I was head fabricator and product development technician for a big Motorsport company that built Audi race cars, I have a few rights to new performance part ideas and several cover page and Spotlight car magazine builds under my belt. I was always tinkering and making new parts in my spare time, or finding new ways of improving the older parts. Unfortunately I've recently been laid off due to outsourcing, and need something to keep my mind occupied, hopefully it's looking like a career at Tesla Motors is where my near future is taking me. Anyway as soon as I seen how these little things function, my mind just wants to rip a few apart and see the results of various modification, but while preserving the original item that struck my inspiration, esp considering its pristine condition.
I have a few large sheets of plexiglass sitting around from past projects (which actually measures 3/8") it's pretty hardcore stuff. I think I want to build a setup with a couple stations side by side somewhat like a mini shop, so I can mount em and run em, and have a station to build/tinker on them, and even strap down a little fuel tank and 1.5v power source for the station.
I also came across this today:

And I have to admit my mind hasn't stopped thinking about it since, this is where my mind naturally goes by default. It's never satisfied with some thing being used for its intended purpose. To have a unique functioning engine like this mounted in a display case is something to make me smile.

Got a mostly finished with a thick engine display and bench test stand for the 049. Would have finished but the fiancé said it was time to come to bed. I'll post up some pictures tomorrow.

Cribbs74 wrote:At second glance if you add 4.6 oz of castor to that O'Donnell fuel it will up the oil content to 20% total oil with 12% of that being castor.

The nitro content will drop to 17.5% which is good enough for bench work.

I thought the oil content said 18% Synth when I posted earlier, sorry.

So cribbs, with added caster oil this fuel will be good to run on a Golden Bee that may or may not have been broken in yet?
What about a modified Bee? I plan on making a custom engine and would be great if I could use the same fuel all around.
If not I'd like to return this unused fuel today, but if it's good then I may actually just get my very first start up today.

Hope everyone's having a great weekend.
I'll just leave this here. . .

If I'm forgetting anything or anyone wants to toss a helpful in feel free.

PlaidHatter wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:At second glance if you add 4.6 oz of castor to that O'Donnell fuel it will up the oil content to 20% total oil with 12% of that being castor.

The nitro content will drop to 17.5% which is good enough for bench work.

I thought the oil content said 18% Synth when I posted earlier, sorry.

So cribbs, with added caster oil this fuel will be good to run on a Golden Bee that may or may not have been broken in yet?
What about a modified Bee? I plan on making a custom engine and would be great if I could use the same fuel all around.
If not I'd like to return this unused fuel today, but if it's good then I may actually just get my very first start up today.

Didn't see this earlier

Yes, it will work, long term you really should invest in some SIG or the new Cox blend fuels. There are others as well.

Ron

Will do. This will at least give me time to find something online for a good price and have it shipped.

you will find S&H I about the same with Quarts when I get down a little further I am ordering the Glowboy fuel 9.99 mix and match % s Check the link is at the end of this post https://www.coxengineforum.com/t7941p20-glowplugboy-fuel-is-back?highlight=glowboy+fuel . Eric

Sweet so that is already mixed and ready to go? Is there a choice of different % or would you have to modify it if you wanted different?