Glow Head Threads and Never-Seize

[Sig Skyray]

Is there anything you put on glow head threads to ensure easy removal of the head? When the cylinder-to-glowhead is tighter than the cylinder-to-case, I don't like it! I have some new .049 glow heads and my cox wrench is not wanting to sit down into the slots very well, making removal difficult.

I'll heat the cylinder next, but I spread my cylinder wrench forks holding the cylinder last time around.

Greg

[RknRusty]

I have a tube of anti-sieze compound I use on automotive spark plugs whenever I install them. Use it extremely sparingly. It has aluminum, graphite and copper mixed into it, so it would be conductive, and you wouldn't want it to migrate to the glow filament.
Rusty

[balogh]

I have quite the opposite problem sometimes: the glow head gets lose during flight no matter how fresh gaskets I have under them and how much I tighten the head when cold. (Some say the gaskets lose their elasticity after a lasting exposure to heat i.e. many hours of engine run, and this is the reason why the head gets lose, so you must often replace the gaskets..)

Because I always remove the head to add some after run oil when I finish my daily flight, and clean the head before I reinstall it, the castor cannot coke and gum in the threads so my glow heads are never seized.

I am not sure which way is better: to let the castor gum and seize the head but have full engine power during the flight, or keep the engine "immaculately clean" as the COX manual says, and lose head tightness/engine output in exchange?

[Sig Skyray]

Actually I'm dealing with a couple brand new engines where the heads were so tight I can't believe it. Maybe after they're run a few times I won't have this problem.

Changing gears a bit... I had a glow plug that worked but I think I burned it up with a 6V battery last week, and it was a high compression. I was looking forward to testing that in my Babe Bee but now guess I'm unable. How much more performance is realized from these glow plugs? More RPM? Are they readily available? Don't recall seeing them at Coxengines.ca.
Thanks! Greg

[TDbandit]

First of all Rusty is very correct about being sparing while using anti-seize it will cause trouble if it gets on any moving parts and especially electrical I use the tip of a tooth pick to apply it to small parts when working on full scale aircraft that call for it in their manuals. Also another thing, I know its not a hot cylinder right now but for future reference, try not to remove a glowhead on a hot engine the head expands more than the steel cylinder and can lock it's self in place and trying to remove it could cause damage cool the head down before removing.

About the high compression heads yes they will help the power (RPM) a bit but with a bone stock babe bee while it would help it will be marginal IMO. Now with other engines like some of the product engines, black widows and mod engines they wake em up! (Bandit)

[TDbandit]

I have quite the opposite problem sometimes: the glow head gets lose during flight no matter how fresh gaskets I have under them and how much I tighten the head when cold. (Some say the gaskets lose their elasticity after a lasting exposure to heat i.e. many hours of engine run, and this is the reason why the head gets lose, so you must often replace the gaskets..)

Because I always remove the head to add some after run oil when I finish my daily flight, and clean the head before I reinstall it, the castor cannot coke and gum in the threads so my glow heads are never seized.

I am not sure which way is better: to let the castor  gum and seize the head but have full engine power during the flight, or keep the engine "immaculately clean" as the COX manual says, and lose head tightness/engine output in exchange?

Sounds like loose threads have you tried a new head? Removing and replacing the head a lot can wear the threads on the head and make the fit looser and more susceptible to working loose from vibration. I usually squirt afterun through the exhaust and work it through by flipping it a few times. (Bandit)

[balogh]

Old or new does not really seem to make a difference on my engines. The thread in the cylinder is not worn either the color is still factory black. Some say you must röhögtem it when cold and gets tighter when hot because aluminum expands more when headed than steel. I may try a tad plumbing teflon wrapped around the head thread but do not fancy such garage-tuning alterations.

[balogh]

You must tighten.... is what I wanted to write but my fartphone overruled with some predictive Hungarian choice..

[TDbandit]

Old or new does not really seem to make a difference on my engines. The thread in the cylinder is not worn either the color is still factory black. Some say you must röhögtem it when cold and gets tighter when hot because aluminum expands more when headed than steel. I may try a tad plumbing teflon wrapped around the head thread but do not fancy such garage-tuning alterations.

It's not usually the threads in the cylinder that wears, it's the aluminum threads on the head. I've seen them work loose in real cold conditions since the engine has a hard time reaching operating temp. If it's still cold there, it could be that. (Bandit)

[balogh]

Good assumption. Till recently it has been quite chilly here. Will check again this weekend as spring is just hatching here and warm weather is coming at last.

[getback]

Hello !! All I have to say is replace your head gaskets often / double up if needed , my heads come loose from not over tightening but that's OK as long as it want blow out , and I have never had that happen YET

[Ken Cook]

Flattening the mating surface of the plug usually helps. This can be done on a piece of glass using 400 grit wet sand paper and some oil.

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