Brodak F4F Wildcat CL Kit

The Hellcat is beam mount. One could also go with a Gilbert .11 Thunderhead.

There you go George... selling that Gilbert again. just kidding of course!


How much does a Gilbert .11 weigh?

Just curious as I can't find any weight info on it and I lost my model engine weights link.
That Hellcat was probably designed around a TD or Medallion which I assume would weigh considerably less.

If you put the Gilbert on the nose it would more than likely require you to add excessive tail weight or cause you to modify the fuse nose or wing location to compensate.

I have only seen one Gilbert on an airplane and that was Kim with his dual Gilbert powered airbus. I have never seen one on a CL and wonder about their suitability in a CL. I wish someone would build and fly something Gilbert powered. Seems to be a lot of talk and not much action!  

Cribbs74 wrote:There you go George... selling that Gilbert again. just kidding of course! How much does a Gilbert .11 weigh? Just curious as I can't find any weight info on it and I lost my model engine weights link.

Checked it just now with a fish scale. Weight is 3.7 oz w/o muffler. With is 4 oz. With wood 7x4 prop is 4.3 oz. It is basically in the .09 - .10 weight class.

That Hellcat was probably designed around a TD or Medallion which I assume would weigh considerably less. If you put the Gilbert on the nose it would more than likely require you to add excessive tail weight or cause you to modify the fuse nose or wing location to compensate.

Yes, one would shorten the nose a bit. The original F4F-3 had a short nose to contain the heavier 2 stage supercharged Pratt & Whitney XR1830-76 Twin Wasp putting out 1,200 HP, so shortening wouldn't make it look out of place.

I have only seen one Gilbert on an airplane and that was Kim with his dual Gilbert powered airbus. I have never seen one on a CL and wonder about their suitability in a CL. I wish someone would build and fly something Gilbert powered. Seems to be a lot of talk and not much action!  

Much has been talk w/o action, because I've had a lot going on the past 2 years. So, it is not that I'd empty boast, just that desire has preceeded production because of that. Since I have an inventory of these engines would give them a shot in the future, it's just my time table has slid out.

How's the wing-jig coming? You could save some coin by just sourcing some balsa.. and scratch-building from a plan. Maybe a profile-fuse and constant-chord non-flapped wing design would be a good first try for the jig?

getback wrote:I don't know what the BR flys like, So I take it no one has built or flown this plane ?  A wasp may be a good candidate for it // or medallion power as I like because they are easy to start and fuel draw is good with a tank.  Eric  Rusty say something

Eric,
I had a baby ringmaster with a tee dee, lots of fun but overpowered. It would probably benefit from a medallion.

Here's the baby clown Ron mentioned:

http://coxengines.ca/brodak-baby-clown-cl-kit.html

I've had two of these and they are OUTSTANDING flyers! If it were me I would get the baby clown and make the profile look like whatever you want.

Here's mine:


Jim

A healthy no-boost twin bypass baby bee is enough power for a baby ringmaster.  It is a small airplane.

A little more power however is desirable, and a modern bee should fill that. A black widow might be a bit too much. maybe...no, but getting close.

Phil

GallopingGhostler wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:There you go George... selling that Gilbert again. just kidding of course! How much does a Gilbert .11 weigh? Just curious as I can't find any weight info on it and I lost my model engine weights link.

Checked it just now with a fish scale. Weight is 3.7 oz w/o muffler. With is 4 oz. With wood 7x4 prop is 4.3 oz. It is basically in the .09 - .10 weight class.

That Hellcat was probably designed around a TD or Medallion which I assume would weigh considerably less. If you put the Gilbert on the nose it would more than likely require you to add excessive tail weight or cause you to modify the fuse nose or wing location to compensate.

Yes, one would shorten the nose a bit. The original F4F-3 had a short nose to contain the heavier 2 stage supercharged Pratt & Whitney XR1830-76 Twin Wasp putting out 1,200 HP, so shortening wouldn't make it look out of place.

I have only seen one Gilbert on an airplane and that was Kim with his dual Gilbert powered airbus. I have never seen one on a CL and wonder about their suitability in a CL. I wish someone would build and fly something Gilbert powered. Seems to be a lot of talk and not much action!  

Much has been talk w/o action, because I've had a lot going on the past 2 years. So, it is not that I'd empty boast, just that desire has preceeded production because of that. Since I have an inventory of these engines would give them a shot in the future, it's just my time table has slid out.

George,

That wasn't a poke at you personally. Many folks on here have Gilbert engines and I've only seen one actually used for it's intended purpose.

I really would like to see one in action on a CL plane, that's all I was saying.

Cribbs74 wrote:George, That wasn't a poke at you personally. Many folks on here have Gilbert engines and I've only seen one actually used for it's intended purpose. I really would like to see one in action on a CL plane, that's all I was saying.

Ron, I don't know about the others, but personally I've been kicking around what airframe to put a Gilbert in, which would do it justice. I think somewhere along the way, someone will surprise you.

getback wrote:Yes Roddie the wing jig is pretty much ready and I have balsa and plans , I do want to try it out soon after going to the trouble to make it . Seems like winter was shorter this year as far as getting any planes built . Garden time coming up mowing , tree trimming and all the other good stuff that comes with spring/summer >>> any way here's a pic of the jig  

What do you have on-hand for L/E stock? Any 3/8"?? You could start laying-out a rib-stack and drill your rod-holes. I have two stacks-of-8 blanks pinned together with 1/4" hardwood dowels ready to be cut on a scroll-saw. The 8"L. blanks were cut from 1/8" sheet balsa x 1.5" wide. I'm going to try thin-CA'ing the stacks at the corners, which will aid in holding them squarely together during the scroll-cutting.  



Include the L/E profile when you transfer the rib-profile to your top sheet on the stack. After cutting the rough rib-profile (stay outside the line) block-sand your finish rib-profile around the stack afterward (checking with a square) and then you can cut your spar-notches in, using one of those nifty; pre-gaged for depth sanding-sticks. Square-off the stacks' L/E (slightly longer) using a razor-saw.. and block-sand back (squarely) to finish length/thickness to match-up with your L/E-stock. You may want root-ribs sanded smaller, to allow for sheeting. Mark rib-stations on your spars and L/E-T/E stock and you can start building!!  

The way I look at it.. you have to sand the ribs that come with kits anyway. BTW.. the "laser-cutting" process by nature; doesn't produce a perpendicular edge. It varies depending on the density of the material. On wing-ribs.. this can show-up when your apply your covering, by it not adhering totally across the ribs width.