Stooge Question

Here's an old post of mine:

RknRusty wrote: I wrote this up for Godsey the other day.
Here is my stooge:



It works for all of my planes. For heavier ones I bungee the lawn table to the top of a barstool for added height.
It consists of

   *a plastic yard table
   *a cheap bath mat with a rubber bottom, about $5 at Big Lots or Wal Mart. It will usually obstruct the elevator. That's okay because before you pull the plane all the way out during launch, the elevator comes clear of the obstruction.
   *a bungee cord to secure it
   *a strong cord(dacron works fine) and metal shish kabob skewer or tent stake to anchor the contraption so you do not tip it over when you pull the plane free.(look to the left of the table and you can see it)


Fold the mat in half so the rubber bottom is on the inside. Stake the cord and skewer into the ground to secure it. This keeps you from tipping the contraption over when you pull the plane out to launch it.

Some planes need for it to be tilted so the plane is a few degrees nose-up. When I use the barstool I tilt it up with a rolled up towel between the stool seat and the underside of the plastic table. For the light planes like the Jumpin Bean and Li'l Satan, I just launch with it horizontal. They can get airborne without dipping toward the ground.

I use a brick to add pressure behind the trailing edge of the wing to keep the plane from twisting under the engine thrust. It's simple and easy to reposition for different wing shapes. You could use the bungee cord for this but I like the extra weight of the brick for stability. Test the position by attempting to rotate the plane towards the inside of the flight circle. It should resist this. Then hold your lines at the wingtip and see how hard it is to pull it out. If it's too tight move the brick back a bit. You just have to get the feel of it. The rubber holds it very secure, even my slat winged Stuntman with the TD screaming full blast is perfectly secure.

After the plane is suitably positioned, fuel and crank it. Keep the lines in your hand as you walk to your control handle. When you launch the plane, hold the handle and remove the slack. Take two or three steps backward as you pull it free(don't yank it) and the stooge will be out of the circle. Once the plane is part way out you will have elevator control. Now you're flying. Sometimes it's a little wobbly, just don't stall it with full up. I usually have full up for the first instant, just to get the nose elevated, then cut back a tad and she'll fly away and off you go.

All this must be done with a video camera so you can prove it when you have a good day. And to entertain us.

The more you use it, the more you will trust it.

Also, when flying alone, make sure you have a first aid kit and a cell phone.

Hope this helps,
Rusty

Wing wraps work pretty good. I recommend you try one on a trainer. I use an old towel with some clamps. I plan to switch the clamps to drywall screws, but haven't needed the clamps for anything else yet.

Phil

KariFS wrote:Here's an idea from a Finnish hobby book published in 1954:



Simple, and allows you to verify the controls as it is released by pulling the elevator up

That is a pretty scary setup.

I would be afraid the vibrations would shake it loose before I made it to the handle. You Finnish folks are brave souls.

Here is the super simple one I made. I patterned it after Kims

KariFS wrote:Here's an idea from a Finnish hobby book published in 1954:


Simple, and allows you to verify the controls as it is released by pulling the elevator up

When I had my Super Sports Trainer from COX back in 1974 or so (A.D.)  its manual suggested the same thing for a stooge...it never malfunctioned.

Cool thanks guys! I've got something to work with now . Hopefully i can get started flying again later this month. (The bandit is hopeful)

roddie wrote:But wait!! Here's a pin-stooge that Brodak stocks http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/launching-devices/tru-launch-stooge.html

Here's what it looks like mounted to a very clever base. (photos courtesy of Flyboyz.com)







I want to build this one now! The only thing I'd add, are foam pads to the tail-fork faces.. (LOL) fork face.. (don't want to fork up a nice paint-job   )

You can spend the $25+ shipping for Brodak's release-pin mechanism... or build it yourself.. which is quite easy.

I built one, well, sorta similar. The softer pipe insulation went over the arms perfectly, both sides of the joint have adhesive on my pipe insulation. I used plastic lumber, it worked well.

Phil

OK I 've got the pic and the Brodak set up is what I am going for this year instead of repairing mine ,,,,, Got to have something to keep the plane from walking to the inside before take off I had this happen with my speed model and ended in snapping the lines and a fly away ( well into the trees ) but was scary when you are turning Rs . Was going to just mount a board to keep it in line but I really like the look and safety ! And can be used with larger models too , I have a run way that is metal (alum) Sign material So just make it and steak in the ground or attach .....And I also want to put my line in a carpenters line thing so I can reel it up or just have enough out to NOT get around my feet while flying Eric

A 6' or 8' long sheet of coroplast sign board is easy to carry, can be cut or folded and ramped up at the very end. Very light weight runway.
Rusty

Upload from phone, edit at computer.

The chalk line reel holds no less than 100 ft of line.

I am using an arc welding stick, 1/8 inch, with the coating knocked off, as the pin.  The surface finish needs corrected as it is rough.  Light sanding is all it takes.  It is "mild" steel, and somewhat soft.

The holes need careful alignment and the stationary holes need over sized a little.  Currently all my holes are 1/4 inch, and it tends to stick a little before letting go of the far arm.  The near arm lets go very easily.

The arms are 10 inches long, the gap is 3 inches so a full fuse plane can be used with this.  I have used it a couple times with good results.  The arms drop very nearly together so there is no added yaw from them not being connected.

I originally had a joiner and took it out because of grass clearance and having the tail raised by the joiner was a problem.

All parts are cut out of 3/4 x 5 1/2 inch trim plastic from Lowes.  It is a foamed board, and was scrap from another project.  No reason to not use any other kind of lumber if it is fuel proofed.  

I sorta copied another design:
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,36726.0.html

Phil

PS I forgot, I use a U of wire made from another SMAW stick to control the stooge cord a few feet from the stooge.  Without this the pin flies halfway back to the center at about 10 ft in the air.

PPS I drilled out the last hole in the line, the stationary outside hole, to 3/8 which seems to resolve the sticking problem.

roddie wrote:But wait!! Here's a pin-stooge that Brodak stocks http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/launching-devices/tru-launch-stooge.html

Here's what it looks like mounted to a very clever base. (photos courtesy of Flyboyz.com)







I want to build this one now! The only thing I'd add, are foam pads to the tail-fork faces.. (LOL) fork face.. (don't want to fork up a nice paint-job   )

You can spend the $25+ shipping for Brodak's release-pin mechanism... or build it yourself.. which is quite easy.

 I see this is for larger models not 1/2a or the release string will bee over the top of the stabilizer , so either a smaller version or go with the wood strip guide ? not sure yet time will tell // definitely a new release is in planes , I got the carpt. reel idea from someone else on hear Maybe Phil

KariFS wrote:
I need to look at the "portable runway" concept too, as there is no dedicated c/l field nearby. Probably some thin hardboard with textile hinges and a built-in stooge.

Thanks for the words of warning, guys

My "Portable Runway" is a few 18"x24" coroplast (corflute) signs taped together accordian style with wide filament tape to fold up for storage, then simply pull out to make the runway on the grass.  I get the signs free a week after the latest election cycle.  Oregon law here says that by seven days after an election, all campaign signs must be removed or the campaign gets fined for each sign.  On day eight, I figure any signs left on the side of the road are fair game.  Wouldn't want the campaigns to get fined, Y'know...

The Law Abiding Mark

Over here, it's sick that whoever can pour the most money into a campaign has the best chance of winning. The ones who are smartest and care most about the wellbeing of our country may not be able to afford the cost of making themselves a household name. I also hate the party system, where to survive you have to follow the party line or be ostracized. Completely counter productive, ensuring short-sighted policy planning and bandaid fixes for long term problems. Our 2016 presidential electing should start rolling any time now.