Cox Super Power Fuel

Kim wrote:Thanks !!!

Gonna get down to the airport and borrow a computer !!!!!!!!!!!!

            Are U own that STUPID phone?   Stuff ; got off track Thanks for everthing GUYS & GALS? ........ The effert is out there and it really counts to making our engines run more efficient without the worrying!! of inconfident oil mixtures ? Hope I did not say that to wrong !! ....... Sorry Kim I owe U .....ERic

andrew wrote:

Kim wrote:Thanks !!!

Gonna get down to the airport and borrow a computer !!!!!!!!!!!!

Kim --
If you can give me the percentages of your fuel and what you want, I'll shoot you the castor amounts.

I've actually been using Sidewinder Pro 30/10 and Sidewinder Pro 20/10, blending the two, then adding castor oil as needed.  My final mix is 22.5% Nitro, 21.25% total oil, 16.9%castor (remainder synthetic).  Starting with a low oil content, you can add quite a bit of castor without diluting the fuel mixture.

andrew

Thanks Andrew!

What I got is a quart of "Cox Super Power Fuel". Lieven says, "Each bottle contains already 18% of oïl. Of this 18%, 90% is synthetic oïl and 10 % is castor oïl".

So I'm assuming he's had this stuff. I'm mightily resisting the urge to 'just throw a shot in there', shake it, and roll with it !

Sorry for being so dense...

getback wrote:

Kim wrote:Thanks !!!

Gonna get down to the airport and borrow a computer !!!!!!!!!!!!

            Are U own that STUPID phone?   Stuff ; got off track Thanks for everthing GUYS & GALS? ........ The effert is out there and it really counts to making our engines run more efficient without the worrying!! of inconfident oil mixtures ? Hope I did not say that to wrong !! ....... Sorry Kim I owe U .....ERic

...........WHAT?......................

Kim --
The factory mix is 25% nitro, 18% oil with 1.8% of the fuel being castor by weight.

If you add 1.1 oz. of castor, the new blend will be 24.2% nitro, 20.8% total oil with 5.1% of the fuel being castor.

The Super Power fuel is a little problematic because of the high percentage of oil in the original package --- there's not much room for adding castor without driving the overall oil percentage over 20.

andrew

andrew wrote:Kim --
The factory mix is 25% nitro, 18% oil with 1.8% of the fuel being castor by weight.

If you add 1.1 oz. of castor, the new blend will be 24.2% nitro, 20.8% total oil with 5.1% of the fuel being castor.

The Super Power fuel is a little problematic because of the high percentage of oil in the original package --- there's not much room for adding castor without driving the overall oil percentage over 20.

andrew

Awright!! 1.1 it is!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't worry about a little too much oil. 25% total oil won't hurt the cox engines, they won't even notice!

Phil

roddie wrote:Wasn't it mentioned previously, that a bottle (quart) of this fuel could NOT be brought up to the 50/50 oil blend, without ending up with a  syrup-like consistency... and a resultant (and undesirable) drop in nitro percentage?

Yeah I remember reading that. There's some truth to it, but slightly exaggerated I think. Still its right up there with Fox 35 snot fuel. It's lots of fun to turn the tail towards the lekkies and blow a rich test run all over them.

roddie wrote:

Remember this? (I know that Ken Cook does..)

Yeah, I remember.

One of the few advantages of old age is nostalgia; one of the disadvantages is not being able to remember most of it.

I can tell you as much as I loved it, it was probably more responsible for ruining most of my engines. It ran GREAT in the Mccoy .35's until they burned up. That purple just wouldn't come off. It had a smell that you just would never forget. Great memories. I have one gallon still left. Ken

Ken Cook wrote:I can tell you as much as I loved it, it was probably more responsible for ruining most of my engines. It ran GREAT in the Mccoy .35's until they burned up. That purple just wouldn't come off. It had a smell that you just would never forget. Great memories. I have one gallon still left. Ken

(OT) Those old fuel cans still have a use.

The new GMA formula is a deep purple in color. It performs well, but if it touches anything white it stains.

It even turns the inside of the engine purple. I may have to inform VP fuels.

Hi Guys!
Just a brief update...

The new formula samples have arrived and will be sent to the volunteer beta testers within the next couple days.

Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions. It is much appreciated.

Dave

No problem Dave!

Pressing towards the goal!

RknRusty wrote:Oh Samantha. Oh Oh Samantha. Did I mention I like Samantha Fish? Find an interview if you can. She is a sharp smart witty woman. And she knows her blues roots very well. Impressive.

Yes, she is a very talented individual. What caught my attention is her K&B fuel can body electric guitar and her bass player's Fox fuel can body electric bass guitar. That's country, you can't get any closer, to mom, apple pie and Chevrolet in my opnion.  

Any updates on the new fuel samples?

sdjjadk wrote:Any updates on the new fuel samples?

I've used about 1/3 of the bottle and am very pleased so far.
Jim

I am away from home. As soon as I get back I will be testing.

Ron

It may seem to be old hat to many. Castor oil continues to lubricate against hot engine parts whereas the synthetics will vaporize and combust. All it takes is a lean run to ruin an engine on the modern fuels. Even today we occasionally hear of a cooked engine that got ruined, even the newer ABC's, and this on the modern lower oil content fuels.

These little half-A engines were made to scream, to do a decent job in pulling the planes through the air. The Castor oil carried out the exhaust also helps to carry heat away. It continues to lubricate hot engine parts, including the underpiston ball joint that holds the con rod. That part of the piston is the hottest, as it is directly underneath the combustion center.

All it takes is a little dirt, bit of straw or grass to affect the intake. It doesn't take much to have a lean run. A lean run means less oil is flowing through the air fuel vapor mist from the intake. Less oil is available to the crankshaft plain bearing aluminum surface, to the ball and socket piston con rod joint, and the cylinder walls where the piston rides. Also, a lean run makes the engine run hotter than normal.

I'd rather have an engine that sustains a lean run with the proper Castor percentage, to fly again, than to have to consider a new engine or new repair parts.

When engine experts like Larry Renger, Joe Wagner, Bernie of Cox International opine about having decent oil content to including Castor, it's good enough for me.

George, the last posts from Ron and Jim are referring to the new formula sent to them by the product manager at Hobbico for Beta testing. It's 20% oil, half castor/half synthetic.
Rusty

RknRusty wrote:George, the last posts from Ron and Jim are referring to the new formula sent to them by the product manager at Hobbico for Beta testing. It's 20% oil, half castor/half synthetic.
Rusty

Okay, I missed that. If it is indeed 10% Castor, 10% Synth, then it meets the recommendations and is a good alternative to the Sig Champion fuel.

GallopingGhostler wrote:Okay, I missed that. If it is indeed 10% Castor, 10% Synth, then it meets the recommendations and is a good alternative to the Sig Champion fuel.

Yeah, I have high hopes for it. Their shipping is much less than Sig's, and Hobbico seems genuinely concerned about supplying our needs.

I used to really like the Glowplugboy fuel from Mike McGraw in Texas. That was sad when he died, way too young. I think he was one of the Johnson Space Center club flyers.