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Hurt my crank Empty Hurt my crank

Post  fit90 Sun Nov 20, 2011 5:22 pm

Ouch!

I just put a Killer Bee crank in a reedie I plan on running on a DNU that I have been building for the past million years or so. The engine has lots of neat goodies on it including a crankcase pressure tap. Any how, after running it on an APC prop I decided to try a Cox prop. When tightening the prop it suddenly became far too easy to tighten the prop. At this point it looks like I stripped the threads on the crankshaft. That sucks! It was turning 19.5K RPM on an APC 5.7X3 cut down to 5X3.

It looks like I have been suffering from a severe case of engine killitus lately. Other than T.E.A.M. (time, effort and money) work is there any cure for this? If so, please tell me.

Bob
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Post  andrew Sun Nov 20, 2011 5:39 pm

fit90 wrote:Ouch!

When tightening the prop it suddenly became far too easy to tighten the prop. At this point it looks like I stripped the threads on the crankshaft. That sucks! It was turning 19.5K RPM on an APC 5.7X3 cut down to 5X3.

It looks like I have been suffering from a severe case of engine killitus lately. Other than T.E.A.M. (time, effort and money) work is there any cure for this? If so, please tell me.

Bob --

Boy, that does suck. Were you using the slotted screw that usually comes with the engines or a socket head screw and was this one of the new production KB cranks? I would think that they should be harder than that.

I use the socket head screws, but try to cut to a length so it tightens up just before it bottoms out. I feel that this gives me maximum thread grip and helps spread the stress over a greater length of the shaft (well, that's the theory anyway).

andrew

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Post  fit90 Sun Nov 20, 2011 6:04 pm

It was one of the new cranks. I had just finished polishing it. I broke it right after its first run. I did not use a screw on this one. It was a stud with a machined aluminum "needle nose" spinner. The spinner has a hole through it and I put a piece of #4 push rod steel rod through it to tighten the prop. I think I just dumbed out and over compensated for the pliability of the soft steel pushrod. I think the silver lining is that I now have an exuse to make another order with Bernie, if anyone ever really needs an exuse for that.

Since the engine was running so nicely and well I will definitely get a new crank for it. I think I had a thread on RCG or RCU regarding this engine. I am going to check to see if the new crank made a difference.

Bob
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Post  fit90 Sun Nov 20, 2011 6:28 pm

I found the thread on RCU and the engine also had a different piston then. So, with a different piston and standard crank it was runnig at 18,550 RPM. With a standard piston and the KB crank it was running 19,500RPM. Nice difference, I just wonder how much was due to the crank.
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Post  andrew Sun Nov 20, 2011 6:39 pm

fit90 wrote:I found the thread on RCU and the engine also had a different piston then.

Link??
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Post  fit90 Sun Nov 20, 2011 6:47 pm

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10675185/tm.htm#

GOOD LINK


Last edited by fit90 on Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:16 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Post  fit90 Sun Nov 20, 2011 6:52 pm

Above link is now good


Last edited by fit90 on Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:52 pm; edited 5 times in total
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Post  fit90 Sun Nov 20, 2011 6:53 pm

Still trying
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Post  andrew Sun Nov 20, 2011 6:55 pm

Bob -

I'm getting a page or topic not found on that link.

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Post  fit90 Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:03 pm



Sorry, I can't figure out how to post a link for this. It was in RCU on 8-18-11.

The computer is way smarter than I am tonight and my treachery is not strong enough to trick it.

Bob


Last edited by fit90 on Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:17 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : forgot your dot between the www and the rest of the address)
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Post  fit90 Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:18 pm

Got it. Sixth post in this thread labeled GOOD LINK. Sorry for the confusion.

Bob
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Post  andrew Sun Nov 20, 2011 8:29 pm

Thanks --- I remember that thread now. Big Al's pressure tap was pretty innovative.
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Post  Cox International Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:54 am

Fit,

On your next order please include a reminder re. the crank and we shall send you a new one at no cost.

You should be able to properly tighten the prop-screw without the threads stripping.

However, please keep in mind that the Killer Bee cranks are softer and not harder than the standard Cox crank. This is what keeps them from breaking during high-RPM or diesel applications. The standard Cox cranks are over-hardended and therefore brittle.

Bernie
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Post  RknRusty Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:07 am

Cox International wrote:...However, please keep in mind that the Killer Bee cranks are softer and not harder than the standard Cox crank. This is what keeps them from breaking during high-RPM or diesel applications. The standard Cox cranks are over-hardended and therefore brittle.

Bernie
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That's good to know. I want to build a KB. I have an engine with a new crankcase with a brass drive plate, a KB red backplate and a new SPI piston/cylinder. All I need is the crank if I'm not missing something. Oh I guess I need a high compression head. That all adds up to a Killer Bee, does it not?

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Post  Cox International Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:15 am

Yep, TD head, KB crank and, if you don't have one, the KB needle valve.

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Post  RknRusty Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:00 pm

Cox International wrote:Yep, TD head, KB crank and, if you don't have one, the KB needle valve.

Bernie
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Oh yeah, I almost forgot. I used the KB needle in my Medallion. I'll be making my Christmas wishlist soon!

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Post  fit90 Wed Nov 23, 2011 6:16 pm

Bernie,

That is a very generous offer and I appreciate it greatly. However, I firmly believe it was my gorilla brain leading my gorilla hand to do harm to my once ready to go engine. On the up side, I took the #4 cylinder and piston and rebored KB backplate and swapped them out with the corresponding parts on another engine that features a beautiful red Halfa works crank case with another polished KB crank. I hope to run it this week end.

I do not know if you celebrate Thanksgiving but I do wish you a happy Thanksgiving and a wonderful weekend. I truly appreciate all of your geneerous support and help with this great hobby.

Bob
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Post  Cox International Wed Nov 23, 2011 6:19 pm

Thanks Bob and we would still like to send you a new crank with your next order.

We do celebrate Thanksgiving but we Canucks do so in October.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all.

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Post  fit90 Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:21 am

Hurt my crank Dscn0417Hurt my crank Dscn0418

This is the engine I will use in place of the pressure tapped one. It was built around a Halfa Works crank case, a #4 cylinder/piston, Galbreath haed/Nelson plug, polished KB crank and bored venturi KB back plate. I will run it today to see if it is any good
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Post  fit90 Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:23 am

Even if it doesn't run well I still think it's pretty.
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Post  nitroairplane Sat Nov 26, 2011 10:33 am

That is lovely!
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Post  andrew Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:49 am

fit90 wrote:Even if it doesn't run well I still think it's pretty.

It is indeed a cute little bugger. If you could find a piece of red tubing to replace the yellow NV tubing, you would be strictly "uptown".
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Post  fit90 Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:34 pm

Andrew,

That's a great idea. I have never been uptown before so I think I might try to find some red needle valve extension to see what it is like. Thank you.

I just ran it about one can of soda and turkey sandwich ago. All the time I was setting it up I couldn't stop thinking about the tach contest. I had to make a few changes. The #4 piston/cylinder was replaced with a #5 piston/cylinder with a lightened piston. I also tried to do the initial run with only one glow head gasket. I could only get it to either burble for about 30 seconds or start backwards. I upped the head gaskets to three and put on a no drag spring starter. It is a happy little starter now. With Sig Champion 25% and a Cox stiff grey 5X3 it would turn a steady 18.5K RPM after two ounces of fuel. It may not be a barn burner but I am quite satisfied with it. I think after a few more ounces of fuel it may give a little more oomph. Time will tell.

Bob
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