Multi cylinder Valentines

Yes, it probably is. The conrods and crankshaft are assembled together and then inserted in the crankcase. Pistons were added later and cylinders were screwed on after. It's a similar idea as a Panhard engine



Lieven

The 3 piece crank case is machined from bar stock. The engine has a central reed valve and is geared. The cylinders and spinner were anodized. Each cylinder has 2 intake and 2 exhaust ports.
 

 
 
Bore                           5.0 mm
Stroke                        5.0 mm
Rpm                          9,300 rpm
Total combustion    5x0.098 ccm
Weight                      65 gram
Intake                      Reed Valve

That's a neat one. Light too. Might actually work in a model!

This is the Power Max flat 4 cylinder diesel engine. The crank case was machined from bar stock and sand blasted. Each cylinder has 2 intake and 2 exhaust ports. It has divided connecting rods and a one piece crank shaft.
 

 
Bore                           5.0 mm
Stroke                        5.0 mm
Rpm                          12,300 rpm
Total combustion    4x0.098 ccm
Weight                      40 gram
Intake                    Rotary Valve

This is the Power Max V-4. A "V". The same basic construction as the Flat 4.
 

 
Bore                           5.0 mm
Stroke                        5.0 mm
Rpm                          12,300 rpm
Total combustion    4x0.098 ccm
Weight                      40 gram
Intake                    Rotary Valve

Those engines are amazing! Simply Amazing!

Shawn

Owning those would kill me because I would want to either RUN them or worse - take them apart, put them
back together and then RUN them!

Beautiful machines.

Phil

It is not that the grape is sour, but I always wonder how these multi-carb glows, or even more so, the multi-cylinder diesels can be tuned for each cylinder to work at the peak performance? by the time you set the contra-pistons on each cylinder you run short of the fuel in the tank...

I wonder how its done if they had glow plugs it would be just a matter of each cylinder having a even fuel flow.

A diesel is in general more tolerant to the air/fuel ratio, and even if it is off a little the engine doesn't quit like a glow engine can/does.

The first start of a new engine can be tricky but once you've found a suitable compression ratio there is very little tuning needed (if the same prop and fuel is used). Some require a slightly higher compression ratio to fire from cold, but if you can prime the side of the piston it will almost always fire on a single flip...

pkrankow wrote:Owning those would kill me because I would want to either RUN them or worse - take them apart, put them
back together and then RUN them!

Beautiful machines.

Phil

MAN! I don't know how a guy could NOT run one of those !!! That V-4 is SOMETHING. I'd probably mess it up, but I'd HAVE to try to make it go!

What a beautiful piece of work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Drooling Kim

Two of the above have been run by me. The 5 cylinder radial and the four cylinder flat.

It is not difficult but it is nerve racking!

Diesels are easy to bring on song. The five cylinder radial is set up by slackening off all cylinders except the top one and finding the firing point by priming.

Priming with the piston closed and the smallest drop of fuel until it fires. Then repeat for each cylinder after slackening off the cylinder just fired.

Reset the top three cylinders to fire (from previously noted compression screw positions) but completely slacken off the bottom two. (Very important!).

Gradually open the needle and flick. Constantly check the bottom two cylinders for flooding. Blow out the bottom two cylinders with air constantly.

The engine will run on three cylinders gradually increase compression to the firing point on the bottom two.

Mistakes will be costly - when all cylinders are firing they can be adjusted but it is advisable to leave the bottom two slightly under par.

Do not try to start with a rich mixture without slacking off the compression. Once set, restarting is a quick matter and little needs changing.

It might seem strange to not fully tune all cylinders but those bottom two will be prone to running rich - this is a single carb engine.

Why haven't I got this on film? .........Because this is the most nerve racking experience I have had starting an engine. These are "delicate" and very rare and demand concentration.

The flat four is easy same process but start with the front cylinder and work backwards.

You would have to be very brave to bring all cylinders up to full tune. Over compress either by the compression screw or over richening the mixture and it will be damaged.

I did film this one - well nearly! After I had got it to running state - I set the camera up, fired the engine first flick and let it run for two minutes. Afterwards, I cleaned and lubed the engine (as I always do) and loaded the camera on to my pc. I had taken loads of images and videos - it took ages to load up. When I checked everything a week later - that video wasn't there!!! I had forgotten to start recording!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-antique-custom-hand-machined-Cox-quad-4-cylinder-airplane-engine-motor-/271608158654?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3d1b99be#ht_38wt_1083

FYI 4 cylinder custom made cox engine for sale.

Very interesting, Ian. I'm glad your thread finally got some attention.
Rusty

Goodness Ian! What a ritual, I wondered about the firing sequence and now I know.

If you ever catch it on film please post.

Ron