Removing covering over covering or One bad bird!

Looks like you gave everything in the garage an extra added coat of protection.

What is it that's sloppy about the NV. Is it like the threads are worn down and loose fitting?

Yeah, I do that to negate corrosion on all my toys! It looks like something out of Cheech and Chong when I open up the bay doors.

The needle fit is so sloppy I can rock the needle back and forth even when it's screwed half way in. It runs with the needle almost all the way out though so it's even worse. The tubing helps some, but not much.

Ron

Ron, any needle that fits the case with the hole pretty much centered will work. I also watched the last video and just laughed, what are you doing? My wife would've HAD A FIT!!!!!!! Is the garage attached to your house? I would try the needle valve in  the one out of your Enya. A much better needle with finer adj. It may fit through the case but not through the insert. I would even try one of the newer Fox spraybar and needles you purchased. If none of this works, well out comes the insert and you go to full out HP on bladder on a remote needle. 100 + no problem. Let me know what you have and I might be able to come up with something here.

One more thing I would like to suggest, although the weight of that model wouldn't require them, do not use the slider style clips with that engine or .015 line sets. They both will work, but I can tell you from experience what will happen with repeated use. It's pretty scary. Once the plane is free, it picks up a additionally 20 mph and flies away like you wouldn't imagine. I've had them go straight up and out of sight never to be found again. A set of .018's is highly recommended for flying the high powered stuff. I'm sure it will be fine with the insert in on .015's, but if you choose to run without the restrictor, fly with the .018's. In any case, don't use the slider clips with that engine and use the squeeze type 110lb test clips. Ken

Ok Ken,

I'll mess around with NV's my concern would be the original NV only has one hole which as you mentioned points towards the crank. Most stunt needles have 2 holes that mount horizontal to the crankshaft.

.18's and squeeze clips got it.

Cribbs74 wrote:Ok Ken,

I'll mess around with NV's my concern would be the original NV only has one hole which as you mentioned points towards the crank. Most stunt needles have 2 holes that mount horizontal to the crankshaft.

.18's and squeeze clips got it.

I don't know about 2 holes... Enya .09, Fox 35 stunt, OS25LA... I own these and all have only one hole in the spray bar.

Phil

Phil ,

I have to take your word about the Enya and OS, but I am pretty sure the .35 stunt has 2.

I'll run out and take a look in a few and get back to ya.

Ron

Ron, I have a couple of .35's with single holes in the spray bar. all the old guy's here suggest aiming the hole straight down the venturi and then turning it back just a little off center. If you go onto I believe it's Ukie's website he talks about single and double holed spraybars. He suggests the hole just off center straight down also. Try it and see what happens. I also have put ST .51 nva's in a couple of my foxes. Like some of the other fellows on here have said, you get a finer adjustment and no leaks because it comes with teflon pads for both sides of the venturi. There's a guy on e'bay that sells them complete for like ten bucks. If you need more info e'mail me buddy. Bye the way, that streak is gonna be a riot. Especially because you probably won't hold back when you fly it. It's a "oh well it's a beater lets see what it can do airplane" LOL!!!!

Jim Hayes

Thanks for the tips Jim. I'll give it a shot and see how it goes. All my foxes have 2 holes. Even my new Fox NV's have 2 holes. I guess they just changed them around for whatever reason. Could be a year change thing as well.

Ron

So reading this, am I understanding correctly that this 36x is some super badass engine that can out pull standard stunt hardware and even run balls to the wall on a bladder? Very interesting.

Rusty

 

It probably can't compete with the combat engines of today, but it's meant to run a smaller prop 9-6 or so and 25% nitro. I haven't flown with it yet. Ken just said to "hang on" once it unwinds.

It's not timed for stunt. That is why I threw it on the ragged old streak so I can just flip
it around and have some fun with it.

Ron

Many of the props used back in the day are just not available. Certain props worked better than other. The 8x8 nylon Tornado for instance was the prop of choice for many. That prop nowadays would more than likely throw a blade and I would discard it.  I had made the suggestion to use a 9x6, 9x7. I keep a selection of Rev-Ups on hand. The 8.5x6.5, 8.5x7 and so forth. Rev Ups were typically underpitched and you could generally select a higher pitch if you chose to do so.  One thing to always keep in mind is that NO prop is safe and treat it that way.Even the best props can fail. I'm sure were all aware to keep our fingers out but one really needs to be behind these engines and not having their head hanging over top of the prop. This would be one's positioning if one is standing over the front of the engine. When it's running get out of the way and quickly get behind it.  Master Airscrew props are cheap. I take the 9x7 MA and sand the tips to 8.5 and I feather the tips back thinning the blade. I do this by scraping with a razor blade initially and then sand smooth. That being said, they work. The main problem is when you start using them on higher performance engines, you need to realize the injection molding on the back of the hub center is hollow. This is the area that will allow the blade to come off of the hub. I've had this happen to me, and I've had it break the front of the plane off  not to mention break the crank. Although this is a old combat engine, it can run pretty strong. I've seen Larry Scarinzi run these over the 100 mph mark. The vintage combat festival a few months back had several 36x's. Most of those using these have a can in the wing. They used pipette bulbs instead of bladders. They did work, but I saw many struggling with bad needle settings.

The engine with the restrictor in place is pretty mild. I've seen many of these use the pressure tap on the rear of the case with a hard tank ( open venturi no restrictor)  run real strong. I don't care for crank pressure but it does work. It just becomes problematic sometimes in terms of flooding the engine on start up. A common mistake is using a hole too large in the pressure nipple, only a very tiny hole is required. Even a good running FoX stunt .35 can be a blast on a Flite Streak. The bolt pattern of just about all Fox engines are the same, .19, .25, .35's including the blackheads and X series. These engines can be real fun especially for a RIngmaster.  The Streak is a very good flying plane. When you couple that kind of flying with a hot engine, it will put a smile on you.

When you start upping the nitro, you also square the forces on the internals. While many feel the engine will destroy itself or lifespan will be shortened when using too much, I've found that to be somewhat of a myth. In order to debunk theories like that, you need to prove it by doing so. Just realize your dealing with a old engine and truthfully anything could happen. Anything can happen to a brand new engine equally as well. Larry was running 40% nitro last fall. I certainly wouldn't recommend that to someone who's had no experience in using this engine. I would certainly suggest 10% initially and work my way up .  The cutouts of these cranks are square fore and aft. A real bad design in terms of a stress riser in the intersections of the cutout. Applying a slight radius with a Dremel tool will help. In addition, ramping a bit of JB weld inside the crank cutout will also prevent the crank from breaking. We clean and scarify the inside of the crank cutout and mix the JB weld and pour a bit into the hole. Prop the crank at about a 30deg angle with the crank web high and the shaft end on the table top.

Keep in mind, the .36X's uses a bearing be it a needle bearing or a caged bearing as two different versions were made. Oil the engine after use as this will keep the bearings from corroding. Rust will form and this can ruin the engine for future use. This usually takes place when the engine is left for storage and a bit of fuel is left in the case. Ken