Ace Foam wings

Some of us just don`t have the skill to get the other coverings on right, if I am very lucky I get it right the first try with monokote,but I have never had a build that I was satisfied with my covering job.

I could just imagine myself using a method that is diferent and has more steps, I have read about other coverings and "how to`s" and it sounds like just more for me to do wrong over and over.

I applaud the guys that can get the other covering methods like silk and dope etc, but I know better than to try it myself.

I can`t scratch build worth a hot either so I keep to the really simple builds and go kit form.

Monocote is a good product but no good for foam. The method I use is cheap/ strong and paintable any color I wish. Its not an instant finish but easy enough. It will never loosen up like heat shink materials.
Dan

Dan's approach using silkspan and white glue is one of the better methods of covering foam wings. In the absence of silkspan, some folks have used lightweight wrapping paper, but it's generally heavier and does not penetrate as well. White glue will also get sticky if heated, so with a little care, it a piece pulls up, you can re-stick it with a covering iron.

I'm not a big fan of using low heat plastics on foam simply because it's a fine dance between getting good adhesion and melting the underlying foam. Secondly, the film looks like it's been applied over a cobblestone street. I have used DAP lightweight spackle that was thinned with water, painted on the foam wing then sanded to fill in the gaps in the beads and give a smooth surface. I have also used WPU and .5oz fiberglass cloth to cover a foam wing --- you have to be careful in selecting the brand of WPU because some are not fuel resistant (don't ask how I found out).

One of the advantages of covering with silkspan or light fiberglass cloth is that it adds tremendous rigidity and dent resistance. Unless the wing is large or going to be stressed heavily stressed, you don't need spars, which saves having to cut spar slots. However, I think the biggest advantage is that it provides a boundary layer between the foam and any paint you may use. A lot of the rattle can paints will attack raw foam, but may be sprayed on covered foam -- light coats first. Just be careful about weight buildup.

My flying buddy had built a Terminator -- a foam board delta wing that we use for full contact combat. He had some spray paint left from another home project, so painted the wing in Blue Angle colors. When he went back to the shop after a cup of coffee in the house, about the only thing left was packing tape, spars and a few tidbits of riddled foam.

Don't be worried about using thinned white glue. I've used it to roll rocket motors from thin poster board and when dry, they get hard as a rock. It's a good technique and opens the door for a lot of paint options.

andrew