Re: Thimble Drome Champion

crankbndr Wed Mar 25, 2015 9:15 am

Found these reproduction Prop Rod bodies on eBay, they look very nice. He had molds made, must have been very costly.
Also has engine nacelle, steering wheel, canopies in red, blue and yellow. Everything you need to dress up the old Prop Rod.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-Prop-Rod-Yellow-Plastic-Body-/161648371954

DRome - Thimble Drome Champion - Page 6 Prbody10

DRome - Thimble Drome Champion - Page 6 Prbody10

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crankbndr Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:39 pm

Just received a body and nacelle, they are very nice, had to tell its a repro

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crankbndr Thu Nov 19, 2015 4:42 pm

My next project, restore this McCoy Mite car back to like new. The body is in very good shape but is missing the tail skid that sticks out a few inches from rear, acts like a wheelie bar.
They were painted an almost iridescent blue and red that is going to be hard to duplicate, I've also seen em polished aluminum.
Unlike Thimble Drome Champs there is almost no info on these cars. I believe this car to be from the late 40s.

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DRome - Thimble Drome Champion - Page 6 Dsc00912

Most of these cars have damaged grills from collisions, the grill is an integral part of the body and almost impossible to repair if broken.
This one is very nice

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DRome - Thimble Drome Champion - Page 6 Dsc00913

crankbndr Thu Nov 19, 2015 5:00 pm

I was not sure if the car was complete inside, had all of the drivetrain parts because you can't find em, although it looks like joeybooms Dad had a lot of fun with it everything was there.
The .19 engine is one of McCoys first glow engines, I think. Check out the old glow plug. Any info on engine would be appreciated, do anyone have one? The rear intake is molded into the case.

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From "the book" #18
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happydad Thu Nov 19, 2015 5:40 pm

crankbndr wrote:Found these reproduction Prop Rod bodies on eBay, they look very nice. He had molds made, must have been very costly.
Also has engine nacelle, steering wheel, canopies in red, blue and yellow. Everything you need to dress up the old Prop Rod.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cox-Prop-Rod-Yellow-Plastic-Body-/161648371954

Was it really $85.00 just for the top? Is is Yellow plastic or the white plastic from the other guy painted yellow?
and p.s. he is out of parts again.

happydad Futaba Radio

crankbndr Thu Nov 19, 2015 6:19 pm

Those bodys and parts look like they were made by Cox. How they were made is in the listing.

getback Thu Nov 19, 2015 7:04 pm

Sweet car crankbndr !! , I seen where you got it glad you are sharing the repairs and history some what , that's the first time I have got to see what transmission set up they have , the ring and pinion look in good shape also . And a good thing you got it I have seen some of your restores and they are magnificent !! Knowing you will do it justice should make his former owner proud. The dude with the plastic has it going on looks like , getback Small Cox Logo

Davenz13 Thu Nov 19, 2015 10:07 pm

Hi Crank
I have a McCoy car, mine has the redhead 19 motor. The motor is with some of my other cars at a speedway exhibition which starts tomorrow (going to the opening function in a few minutes) but the car is here. It's at that stage where I've not decided whether to restore it or leave it as it is. Leaning toward leaving it at this stage. I'll get some photos of it up over the weekend. It's got a black base with a fairly faded top and a McCoy transfer either side of the rear nacelle. I have some other pictures of McCoys from cars that were posted on eBay giving a fair bit of detail.
Dave

Davenz13 Fri Nov 20, 2015 10:55 pm

Heres a pic of a McCoy off eBay a while back

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Here's my engine

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and here's my car
I have new transfers for it, mayby I should restore it....

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crankbndr Sat Nov 21, 2015 8:47 am

Nice pics, I like the polished alum. body but I think I'm going to paint. Your engine is absolutely beautiful. Do you restore that yourself?
I can't get my engine apart, worst one Ive ever run into, its like welded together. The crankpin goes through the piston rod and into the intake rotor. With the intake end cast as part of the case you can't get to it.
The crankpin won't pull out of the rotor or rod. I'll probably need to find an engine on eBay.

Davenz13 Sat Nov 21, 2015 10:54 am

crankbndr wrote:Nice pics, I like the polished alum. body but I think I'm going to paint. Your engine is absolutely beautiful. Do you restore that yourself?
I can't get my engine apart, worst one Ive ever run into, its like welded together. The crankpin goes through the piston rod and into the intake rotor. With the intake end cast as part of the case you can't get to it.
The crankpin won't pull out of the rotor or rod. I'll probably need to find an engine on eBay.

No unfortunately I can't take credit for the engine, I bought it and the car separately off eBay a few years back now. The engine appears to have done very little work.
I paid something like like $130 for the car which is complate minus engine and a bit more for the engine which seemed a lot a the time but they have certainly climbed in price since then.
I have a Nylint McCoy which from memory has copies of the paperwork in the box. The cars are in a cabinet and the boxes stored away. I don't know if there is a breakdown or parts list for the engine in there but I'll have a look if you like.
Dave

Mark Boesen Sat Nov 21, 2015 11:00 am

Remember, the Nylint repro McCoy car is an excellent parts donor, you can use about everything except the gears, and maybe you could use the ring gear?

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1467479&page=28

crankbndr Sat Nov 21, 2015 11:06 am

Davenz13 wrote:
crankbndr wrote:Nice pics, I like the polished alum. body but I think I'm going to paint. Your engine is absolutely beautiful. Do you restore that yourself?
I can't get my engine apart, worst one Ive ever run into, its like welded together. The crankpin goes through the piston rod and into the intake rotor. With the intake end cast as part of the case you can't get to it.
The crankpin won't pull out of the rotor or rod. I'll probably need to find an engine on eBay.

No unfortunately I can't take credit for the engine, I bought it and the car separately off eBay a few years back now. The engine appears to have done very little work.
I paid something like like $130 for the car which is complate minus engine and a bit more for the engine which seemed a lot a the time but they have certainly climbed in price since then.
I have a Nylint McCoy which from memory has copies of the paperwork in the box. The cars are in a cabinet and the boxes stored away. I don't know if there is a breakdown or parts list for the engine in there but I'll have a look if you like.
Dave

Those .19 engines with the cast in intake are fetching big money now, I think some folks a dropping em in Nylint cars to make a non real McCoys.
I could use an aero engine and change the nose to the tether car crank, but would have the same problem of pulling the crankpin through the rod.

crankbndr Sat Nov 21, 2015 11:08 am

Mark Boesen wrote:Remember, the Nylint repro McCoy car is an excellent parts donor, you can use about everything except the gears, and maybe you could use the ring gear?

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1467479&page=28

Yes, I see em on eBay turned into runners and they want big money for em.
Thanks for the link, I found a parts diagram in there.

crankbndr Sat Nov 21, 2015 2:45 pm

Well i blew a gasket trying to free up the McCoy, good thing my favorite tool was out of reach!! I cut the case in two and twisted the rod till it broke.
Course I was caressing it with kind words at the same time. Had to be a weird fuel used, nothing like old castor in there. Some king of crystallized black stuff that welded everything.
At the very least I need a case, sleeve and rod.
I still might get the hammer!!

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DRome - Thimble Drome Champion - Page 6 Dsc01012

Marleysky Sun Nov 22, 2015 9:20 am

Well, darn. You'll just have to change your name to "RodTwister". I don't know if you tried the "overnite soak in antifreeze in a crockpot" method to free up the parts, but it looks like you'll be searching ebay for some replacement parts. OWCH !

getback Sun Nov 22, 2015 11:41 am

Hate to see that Crank , I am on the bay way to much and if I see anything ill shot you a PM , I was wondering about people buying the Nylint ones and building your own and yes they are expensive in good cond. for the real thing , getback Small Cox Logo

Davenz13 Sun Nov 22, 2015 12:23 pm

I PM'd crank with a link to one yesterday but there's about four on the Bay as the moment, rear intake 19's

crankbndr Sun Nov 22, 2015 1:33 pm

Thanks for the help guys, Ive got two on the radar now. Im looking for one with the venturi cast with the case, very early .19s, I think even an old sparker would work because I have the teather car nose piece with bearings, crank and gear. They also have bumps on the lugs.

Oldenginerod Sun Nov 22, 2015 7:59 pm

crankbndr wrote:

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crankbndr Sun Nov 22, 2015 8:19 pm

Good one, worth a greenie!!

Oldenginerod Mon Nov 23, 2015 1:39 am

Thanks for the Greenie. Hats Off

I just couldn't resist.

crankbndr Mon Nov 30, 2015 10:28 am

Just primed the body with zinc chromate next some gray primer and wet sanding.
To remove the old paint I used something new to me, Goof Off Striper. It says on the can to use rubber gloves ( I don't need no stinking gloves ),
it should say on the can YOU BETTER WEAR GLOVES YOU DUMB AZZ OR YOU WILL BE SORRY.
Anyway its a very good stripper.

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DRome - Thimble Drome Champion - Page 6 Dsc01013

crankbndr Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:56 am

I was able to cobble together a pretty decent McCoy .19 from a loner engine off eBay. I believe the early .19s had a different head shape than later more rounded edges and painted red.
The engine is down on compression but the tether car has a lot of runs on it also. The screws that hold the axle and engine were all bogeyed up pillister head phillips drive 6/32s and 4/40s, can't find those anywhere so will have to use slotted pillister or socket heads. Been raining since Fri. so no painting, we are getting pretty soggy around here.

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crankbndr Thu Dec 17, 2015 3:08 pm

Got the body painted and cleared today even though it is very humid here and downright hot.
I used colors close to original although the black is metallic. Assembly coming soon.

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