Advice Please

ebeneezer Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:36 am

Just starting to strip down my newly aquired 010. When I try to remove glo-head, it's unscrewing the cylider. Whats the best way to hold cylider, to unscrew glo-head? I really don't want to damage the cylinder. Flying

Cheers

EXModelEngines Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:43 am

I have had success wrapping the cylinder in a medium soft leather-type material, then holding lightly with a pair of pliers. Since the force is distributed evenly and there is a barrier between the cylinder and pliers, the fins will not be damaged. You can then use the engine wrench on the glow head.

EDIT NOTE: While the 010 can be taken apart using 2 engine wrenches, using the 'fork' end on the cylinder is a little risky since you can develop a burr for the force needed to separate the glow head from the cylinder. This is mainly why I suggested the process above, along with the fact 010 cylinders are very difficult to locate as a replacement.

Matt

Dizzyman2011 Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:48 am

Do you have two cox wrenches for that engine ? If so have done this with good success on an 049 not sure if the same applies here
Make sure piston is bdc put wrench on cylinder and use other wrench to take the head off that way you get a good purchase on it but don't risk gouging or scoring the cylinder that is how I have done it before With an engine that was sitting outside in a shed for 10 years but I am a novice on those little ones don't trust me I know nothing !!!!!!!
lol!

ebeneezer Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:18 pm

Mission accomplshed using pliers and the back side of a piece emmery cloth. I was surprised how little tourque was required.

Cheers. Flying

ebeneezer Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:22 pm

Next question, is it worth splitting the carbureter body from the crank case if so how? Flying

Cox International Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:32 pm

See here:

http://coxengines.ca/files/carb%20body.pdf

John Goddard Wed Jan 30, 2013 5:16 pm

If you're using pliers and you've gotten away with it so far, you've been lucky.
If it's freely turning, I'd re-assemble and fire it up.
Very Happy

ebeneezer Wed Jan 30, 2013 6:05 pm

Thankyou, mission accomplished, Now to clean and reasemble. Anything I should watchout for. How should check the spraybar jet is clear? What diameter the jet? Flying

Thanks.

John Goddard Wed Jan 30, 2013 6:42 pm

There are 3 tiny capillaries Ebz, you'll be able to see if they're
Blocked or not.

ebeneezer Wed Jan 30, 2013 7:11 pm

All seems ok. lets see what happens tomorrow when I fire it up. Flying

Mark Boesen Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:31 pm

I didn't hear the word 'heat' anywhere in your post...you did warm up the engine prior to putting the proper wrench on it didn't you?

You'll save a lot of heartache as well as damage parts, if you warm up engine to soften up the glue (dried caster) before you put a wrench to it.

ebeneezer Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:18 pm

No heat used, I never gave it a thought. I 'll tell you what though, It was a great idea, will do from now on, thanks. Flying

ebeneezer Thu Jan 31, 2013 2:02 pm

Progress report. Engine fully reassembled feels great. When trying to bench run, it only runs on the prime. fuel appears to be getting through.

Question 1 I'm using % 20 Nitro Is that enough?
2 Fuel is 2years old, too old?
3 Battery voltage 1.3v enough?
4 Glo-head glowing possibly on the dim side,

Is there anything else I should Check or be aware of

Ebeneezer Flying

**Cribbs74** Thu Jan 31, 2013 2:48 pm

If it runs on prime then I would say fuel and glow are good enough. Fresh fuel and a new battery should be a future purchase though.

Take a syringe with a piece of fuel tubing. Close off the NV attach the Fuel tubing to the fill tube and plug the overflow tube with your finger. Depress the plunger and look for leaks around the tank back and the tank to cranckase. Also works well for Bee tanks too.

Those .010's do not draw fuel all that well and the tank needs to be leak free.

Ron

John Goddard Thu Jan 31, 2013 3:10 pm

Apart from questionable old fuel and dim glow...
I'd say if using Rons method use a small
(5cc or smaller) syringe and press plunger very slowly.
Do it quickly or use too big a syringe and even
If there isn't a leak those paper gaskets need very
Little excuse to let go and spring a leak.
I think I would start opening the n/v more/
One of mine needs 6.5 turns before it will run,
Then put tube on filler hole, cover other one with finger
And use syringe to gently push fuel up the fuel
Line to the Venturi. As soon as fuel reaches Venturi
sTOP pushing or you'll flood it
Then tiny exhaust prime, connect glow and Robert should be
Ya muvvas bruvver.
Very Happy

Mark Boesen Thu Jan 31, 2013 3:59 pm

ebeneezer wrote: No heat used, I never gave it a thought. I 'll tell you what though, It was a great idea, will do from now on, thanks.

I never take a used engine apart with out a little heat...I learned the hard way, broke a crank on mint Holland Hornet, cause i thought i could free it up by hand

ebeneezer Fri Feb 01, 2013 12:16 am

The 010 I have has just a back plate not a tank. I take it, it still needs a gasket? Mine doesn't have one, should it? Ive ordered a couple, and running it without for the moment. Could this be my problem. Hopefuly when they arrive I'll try again. I take it that fuel tank position is also critical?

Cheers, Ebeneezer DAMMIT!

m

Dizzyman2011 Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:41 am

Probably sucking air would await the gasket then try again make sure it seats nicely Very Happy

Dizzyman2011 Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:42 am

Also position tank so that feed pipe is level with the nva
bounce

ebeneezer Fri Feb 01, 2013 4:08 am

Thanks I hoped that could be the case Flying

mx862 Fri Feb 01, 2013 10:00 pm

ebeneezer wrote:The 010 I have has just a back plate not a tank. I take it, it still needs a gasket? Mine doesn't have one, should it? Ive ordered a couple, and running it without for the moment. Could this be my problem. Hopefuly when they arrive I'll try again. I take it that fuel tank position is also critical?

Cheers, Ebeneezer

May i ask where you ordered a 010 crankcase gasket from? i don't remember the 010 having one.. my engine ran fine without one.. but i went ahead and made my own and tried it.. i did not notice much of a difference, also the thicker the gasket the more air space in the crankcase, although i haven't noticed any negative effect with gaskets as thick as 025.

**Cribbs74** Fri Feb 01, 2013 10:26 pm

If you are using the radial backplate mount then the gasket is a non issue. I just assumed you had a tank.

I too would like to know where you ordered a .010 crankcase gasket from as they shouldn't exist. Did you maybe order a fuel tank backplate gasket?

One more thing to check is to see if the crankcase was drilled to run on pressure. You would need to remove the carb body to see.

Jason_WI Fri Feb 01, 2013 10:46 pm

No need to take the engine apart to see if it is drilled for crankcase pressure. Use a small needle and insert it into the carb body nipple. Slowly turn the crank while applying slight pressure on the needle. If the needle drops in at a point while turning then it is drilled.

Jason

**Cribbs74** Fri Feb 01, 2013 10:51 pm

Jason_WI wrote:No need to take the engine apart to see if it is drilled for crankcase pressure. Use a small needle and insert it into the carb body nipple. Slowly turn the crank while applying slight pressure on the needle. If the needle drops in at a point while turning then it is drilled.

Jason

Good idea Jason, Thanks for the one up! lol!

ebeneezer Sat Feb 02, 2013 7:48 am

Yes I ordered a fueltank gasket by mistake. One more thing, how much clearance should you have between the end of the crankcase and the drive plate, I seem to have rather a lot? would it be worth shimming out to reduce the play.
Flying

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