Sig Akromaster build.

Big progress made today. Wing epoxied into fuse and fixed flaps installed:


Somewhat sloppy but effective adjustable leadouts:


And my high class Macanudo adjustable tip weight tube:


I'm going to fill most of the tube with foam and then use lead fishing sinkers for the actual weight.
I wish Arturo Fuente made an adjustable tip weight tube so I could use it in the Twister that is next in the build que.

Anyway, got the silkspan/poly on the tail feathers so those should have three coats by tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully cover the wing Thursday and start paint next Monday.
I need to get some fuel and break in that Fox .15.

Jim

Looks good, Jim. Are the leadouts adjustable? Looks like you can reposition them by pulling an eyelet out and plugging it into another hole. Do the rib cutouts allow for any adjustment?

I need to smoke a few cigars. Lots of cool things you can do with the tubes.  

Rusty

RknRusty wrote:Looks good, Jim. Are the leadouts adjustable? Looks like you can reposition them by pulling an eyelet out and plugging it into another hole. Do the rib cutouts allow for any adjustment?

I need to smoke a few cigars. Lots of cool things you can do with the tubes.  

Rusty

Yes, adjustable leadouts and the ribs allow for quite a bit of adjustment.

Jim

You're progress looks great. I've told my boys to many times, I would like to build an Akromaster and a Twister and use the same paint scheme. I think that would be cool.

Reading through this thread, I noticed mention of the Fox 15 as a powerplant. It was advertised as "having the same power as the motor of a washing machine" (1/4hp) which is about what it would put out. The only engine that I know that did less was the Medallion 15 at 0.17hp according some some review or other.
I bought my Fox 15 when I was 14, which means that I've had it for 50 years as of this summer. While not perfect at least it had more power than the Fox 0.09, although the 0.09 was easier to get started for a rank beginner.
Now that I think about it, the engine was pretty rugged. It survived a total faceplant when my Circus Prince augered into the ground from a wingover due to failed elevator hinges. The gas tank actually punched a through when it slid into the Fox.
Are my comments relevant to this thread? I dunno, but its fun to reminisce!

Wing covered, epoxy and micro ballon fillets done. First time doing fillets so we'll see how it goes. Got this thing in the home stretch. Hobby shop ordered me some 10/24 all castor power master so I can start breaking in the fox.


Jim

JPvelo wrote:Wing covered, epoxy and micro ballon fillets done. First time doing fillets so we'll see how it goes. Got this thing in the home stretch. Hobby shop ordered me some 10/24 all castor power master so I can start breaking in the fox.


Jim

Looks great Jim!

I like red model aeroplanes - mine would all be red if I didn't hold some discipline. My favourite (favorite) is the transparent red.

I like the transparent finish on wings and this is no exception. It shows the detail and work that went into the build.

If you've got it, flaunt it!

That is a really cool aircraft model. Imagine making a plane jane AG aircraft look cool. Maybe they are I just didn't know it. Anyway, really nice effort - wing looks great.

ian1954 wrote:mine would all be red if I didn't hold some discipline

I know exactly what you mean. I feel the same way. When I ordered dope for my Stuntman project I purposely avioded red to try something diferent. It's killing me....

Better - I can see the ribs more clearly.

After hearing about the Akronasters tendency to be nose heavy i added a blind nut and 1/32 ply reinforcement to secure washers with a 4-40 Allen bolt.


Plan on assembling tail feathers and spraying primer tomorrow.

Jim

I did the same on the Shoestring and drilled a hole through the center of a stack of 7g lead weights. I ended up using 17g and it didn't make much difference. I was afraid to put more. Remember the more weight back there, the more leverage it has to snap that fuse behind the wing.
Rusty

Down to final assembly on this one:


Hopefully I will have my all castor fuel Monday and I can start breaking in the fox while the paint cures.
I plan to have it assembled for show and tell at the Central Arizona Control Line Club meeting Tuesday nite.

Jim

Jim it looks terrific!

Hope we can see some video of it flying around.

I've always liked the clear red covering. If I ever build one with pretty enough bones I'll do that.
Rusty

All done except leadouts, engine thrust shims, and she's a tad bit nose heavy. Tank is a 2oz Sullivan klunk plumbed for uniflow. Followed  break in routine posted by Phil K on stunt hanger. Engine has had over a quart of power master 10/22 with extra castor run through it. Doing 11,300 just starting to break into a 2 cycle with an apc 8x5, runs about 4 1/2 minutes with 2 oz of fuel. Plan to fly next Saturday.


Jim

Looks absolutely fantastic Jim!

That particular muffler is not all that heavy, but if you took it off it may even things out. If you can get away without a muffler that is.

Hope to hear about the flight report soon. With video if possible!

Ron

If you leave the muffler on, I highly recommend a pressure line to the tank. I put a clip on it to keep it from siphoning before I crank it. It helps keep dry grass bits out of the tank in the winter too. a problem where I fly. I like the consistency of my engine runs with exhaust pressure. I've grown very fond of those plastic clunk tanks.
Rusty

Ron,
Thank you. I plan on leaving the muffler on. My club field requires mufflers on anything over a .35 but we fly in a mall parking lot so I want to try and be as best an ambassador of the hobby as possible.

Rusty,
Can I run muffler pressure with a uniflow setup?

Jim

I know you asked Rusty, but I think you can. Just run pressure to the uniflow line. Better wait until Rusty comments though. I am the king of standard vent.

Absolutely, that's what I do. The uni pipe inside the tank ends an inch or less short of the rear outboard corner where it won't get in the way of the clunk. I put a 1" piece of plugged tube on the vent pipe that sticks straight up, and tie a string to it so you don't lose it. Remove the vent  when you fill the tank, unplug the pressure line from the muffler and fill through that. Re-cap the vent and replug the muffler line. You can route that line so it won't siphon, but I prefer to just put a clip on it. Anddon't forget to unclip it before you crank.

On the Yak  plan to use a 3 ounce oval wedge uniflow tank with the same plumbing, just not a clunk. The new Skyray will have the plastic clunk uniflow. The runs are dead steady, I launch my OS rich, not steady 2 stroking and it will switch fast and slow in the air giving 5+ second laps and 2 stroke climbs and overheads, When it's a lap or two from running dry, it will start pulling harder and I get ready to land. There is no fuel in the tank when it cuts off. Every time. I think you'll really like it. Once you get your needle set it doesn't seem to vary as much, but remember I'm also a noob at this too. Do not use a check valve in the uni line.
Rusty

Thanks guys,

I will post video next Saturday.

Good looking plane, Jim. It should fly well. The lead out guides, do they just plug in into the slot-with-holes?