Saturday Control line blues.......With video!

RknRusty wrote:Pretty good flight. That RR1 is a quick little engine. Loud too. Looks like about 3 second laps, that's about as fast as you want it to fly. Are you on 30' or 35' lines? I calculated 59.9 MPH on 40' lines(plus my 2' arm), so you're probably doing about 50. Any faster than 3 seconds gets awfully frantic.

Did you see the post I made in the Ringmaster RIP thread about using a streamer to tame the loops? Might be worth a try when you get your stunter flying again.

Hey Rusty,

30' lines on that flight. That was with a 6x3 up front to slow things down. Great little engine that RR1.

I did see the post about the streamer and I will be trying that out as soon as the BRM is covered, or the Bean gets finished. Whichever comes first.

Ron

Ron, the problem with Ringmaster's is the design of the wing. I'm assuming you have the Brodak version and I can't comment on it due to never building it. One thing I can comment on is the way most the kits that he put out has been redesigned. I'm not a particular fan of glued up trailing edges or built up leading edges. In either situation, the trailing edge tapers coming together in the center on a mitre. That joint now becomes the sacrificial element of the wing design. It happens with the larger Ring as well. The solution is, fiberglass that joint with a strip of lightweight glass and epoxy not just CA. I know you've mentioned you don't have any. I could send you some if you would prefer. Another option is to use a strip of drywall tape, (fiberglass mesh tape) and iron on the tape enveloping the joint and onto the sheeting. I thin yellow glue down 40% approx and brush it onto the mesh with an acid brush. An even simpler method would be to lay some carbon tow across the joint either installed with thin CA or thinned white glue running parallel with the leading edge spanning 1" or 2" across the joint each way. These methods are light and also are virtually undetectable covered in Monokote. The problem is the momentum generated when the plane hits the ground, everything wants to go forward and once this happens you have a two fold break due to the leading edge breaking as well. Ken

Hey Ken,

I scratch built the BRM from plans, but yes the trailing edge is 2 piece. I am at the re-covering stage just now and I can do the mod you suggested.

Ron

Wow, I wouldn't have guessed that was a 6" prop on the RR1. By the sound of it, I figured it was a 5.5 or smaller. You've got a good one there. Mine has always been hard to crank, and now it's getting harder to needle, so I may finally have to crack it open and have a look.
Is 30' the max you can fit into your circle? 35' would sure make those stunts easier.

RknRusty wrote:Wow, I wouldn't have guessed that was a 6" prop on the RR1. By the sound of it, I figured it was a 5.5 or smaller. You've got a good one there. Mine has always been hard to crank, and now it's getting harder to needle, so I may finally have to crack it open and have a look.
Is 30' the max you can fit into your circle? 35' would sure make those stunts easier.

I could probably do 40' although I would be toying with the treeline. I chose 30' so I can move around a bit and still be safe. I think I will do a set of 35' lines for the BRM ressurection and the Bean debut though.

The RR1 is pretty powerful. Sucks some fuel though. Also leaves a white mist trailing behind when flying. I wonder if fuel is coming out of the vent.....

Pon ma Soul you're looking good Ron.
The RR1 sounds wicked.

cribbs74 wrote:

RknRusty wrote:Wow, I wouldn't have guessed that was a 6" prop on the RR1. By the sound of it, I figured it was a 5.5 or smaller. You've got a good one there. Mine has always been hard to crank, and now it's getting harder to needle, so I may finally have to crack it open and have a look.
Is 30' the max you can fit into your circle? 35' would sure make those stunts easier.

I could probably do 40' although I would be toying with the treeline. I chose 30' so I can move around a bit and still be safe. I think I will do a set of 35' lines for the BRM ressurection and the Bean debut though.

The RR1 is pretty powerful. Sucks some fuel though. Also leaves a white mist trailing behind when flying. I wonder if fuel is coming out of the vent.....

You'll find 35' much more agreeable and less frantic. That's the perfect length for mid-speed 1/2A, especially for loops and tricks.

Yep and yep. I'm lucky to get 90 seconds out of my RR1. I bet you are seeing fuel spraying out of the vent, though I've never noticed it from mine.

RknRusty wrote:

cribbs74 wrote:

RknRusty wrote:Wow, I wouldn't have guessed that was a 6" prop on the RR1. By the sound of it, I figured it was a 5.5 or smaller. You've got a good one there. Mine has always been hard to crank, and now it's getting harder to needle, so I may finally have to crack it open and have a look.
Is 30' the max you can fit into your circle? 35' would sure make those stunts easier.

I could probably do 40' although I would be toying with the treeline. I chose 30' so I can move around a bit and still be safe. I think I will do a set of 35' lines for the BRM ressurection and the Bean debut though.

The RR1 is pretty powerful. Sucks some fuel though. Also leaves a white mist trailing behind when flying. I wonder if fuel is coming out of the vent.....

You'll find 35' much more agreeable and less frantic. That's the perfect length for mid-speed 1/2A, especially for loops and tricks.

Yep and yep. I'm lucky to get 90 seconds out of my RR1. I bet you are seeing fuel spraying out of the vent, though I've never noticed it from mine.

I think I was under a minute on that flight. I wonder how it would do on 5x3, the speed would pick up that's for sure. I probably will only use the RR1 on special occasions like when I am bored as in this case. I could always screw a #4 on it and a high comp head....heh heh. Bet that would be fun.

Anyway I will be going 35'

John Goddard wrote:Pon ma Soul you're looking good Ron.
The RR1 sounds wicked.

That was more of a fun fly. That RR1 was burning a hole in my engine case. Since the Wizard has the stunting ability of a Russet potato I figured it was a safe platform for a speed run with the RR1.

It runs really well though, I wish I had a couple more RR1 back ends so I could build some real screamers.

Ken Cook wrote: Ron, the problem with Ringmaster's is the design of the wing. I'm assuming you have the Brodak version and I can't comment on it due to never building it. One thing I can comment on is the way most the kits that he put out has been redesigned. I'm not a particular fan of glued up trailing edges or built up leading edges. In either situation, the trailing edge tapers coming together in the center on a mitre. That joint now becomes the sacrificial element of the wing design. It happens with the larger Ring as well. The solution is, fiberglass that joint with a strip of lightweight glass and epoxy not just CA. I know you've mentioned you don't have any. I could send you some if you would prefer. Another option is to use a strip of drywall tape, (fiberglass mesh tape) and iron on the tape enveloping the joint and onto the sheeting. I thin yellow glue down 40% approx and brush it onto the mesh with an acid brush. An even simpler method would be to lay some carbon tow across the joint either installed with thin CA or thinned white glue running parallel with the leading edge spanning 1" or 2" across the joint each way. These methods are light and also are virtually undetectable covered in Monokote. The problem is the momentum generated when the plane hits the ground, everything wants to go forward and once this happens you have a two fold break due to the leading edge breaking as well. Ken

Same for the Litlle Jumping Bean on those joints. Both the front and the rear got a wrap of epoxy coated fiberglass tape on mine. Also epoxy'd a strip of 1/16" craft plywood on the inside of the wing of that trailing edge joint. I also blocked/braced the wingtips, as well as the wing ribs where they meet both the trailing edge and leading edge. All those meeting points looked very tenative at best to me. So I blocked and braced with balsa square stock here and there.