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RC Cars Cox 0.49 (Cox Stocker Kyosho f1,beetle) Killer Bee Backplate New Video! - Page 9 Cox_ba12




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Post  OVERLORD Tue May 14, 2013 9:16 am

coxaddicted wrote:

the biggest problem is a engine mount at the moment. If anybody has an idea which basic material I should use (the chassis is made of delrin) please advice. I am thinking of aluminium, but I would like to have something which is durable too but easier to handle (I have only a limited machine park, otherwise a cnc finished engine mount would be my favourite Very Happy )


Hello Coxaddicted,

Do you have a drawing yet of the engine mount? Can a standard mount be transformed or adapted? Does it have to be made out of 1 piece or can it be assembled?
When using aluminium, a lot can be done by hand with the necessary patience.

Lieven
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Post  coxaddicted Tue May 14, 2013 10:21 am

Hey Lieven,

yes I have already spent some thoughts about the engine mount. Thus I am using a aluminium base plate for the chassis (The tee dee project will be assembled from a parts lot, where no base plate was included) i will have different choices. The aluminium base plate is a copy of the original delrin floor panel.

1. - I could use a simple engine holder made of stock bar aluminum fixed at the floor panel (in my eyes the easiest and solid solution)

2. - I have a Tee Dee Tank engine mount, I could fix the engine on the Tank and make a mount for the tank fixed
with the chassis.

3.- I could use the original fireplate, drill holes in the correct position and screw on a converted servo mount made from delrin.

I am not sure which solution I should use. Every selection has it`s pro and con, number too is nice because I would save room for a little fan, on the other hand the capacity of the tank is very limited. Number 3 would be the cleanest option but it is also a little bit difficult to reach the correct position, also I fear it could be to unstable and wear out the spur gear (if I do not work correct enough).

Number 1 would be the fastest acess to get it on the track Very Happy Furthermore there will be much space around the engine for cooling, fast removing, cleaning and idling.




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Post  JayeLK Tue May 14, 2013 10:46 am

Had fun reading your build and experiment logs.

One thing about all the backplate problems, it may just be that they all are old and failing just from age but were OK when the plastic was new. I can't be sure but you'd think if they were all as bad as you have seen When new Cox would have changed the material pretty fast.

You have so many projects it's hard to keep up. At least you're enjoying these cars, even if you can't find a friend that is as enthusiastic as you are to join you.

Keep them turning!

Jaye
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Post  coxaddicted Wed May 15, 2013 4:08 am

Damn, I wrote a nice article and clicked the window away.

Ok now in short: I know this topic is a little bit confusing due to the many cars I have introduced. I already thought about outsourcing some of the projects ?

I will change down now. I already forgotten my nicest car in the bottom drawer (Cox Stocker with Maple Throttle). I didn't see any running yet - this would be a great dream for me. So the Cox Stocker will be first ranked in my to do list. BTW: The tee dee project will be advanced too, but I guess I will have not enough time this summer thus to all these other projects. At the moment i do not know where to start first Very Happy .

Regarding the black backplates: I know that plastic ages and I guess that Cox used a bad flexibilizer. I have purchased my Kyosho F1 Car new in 1991 or 1992 (Where everything was available Sad good old times). After one year! the backplate was broken in many parts, the same with the new spare backplate. Maybe it was just a bad charge, but i don't think so because all black backplates I had in my hands behave the same.

The other coloured backplates of the same type are better. I have a white one from a production engine which is minimum 30 years old and it is still fine (same for the grey sure start and KB Backplate). I have compared the KB and Surestart Backplate with a never used black backplate and it seems that the material of kb/surestart/white Backplate is softer or more flexible than the black ones. I still have some of the black ones and i know they work too, but i won't attach one even it is not necessary.

Thank you all for watching this topic Hand Shake
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Post  robot797 Wed May 20, 2015 6:18 am

does anyone have the manual for the beetle/vw and the f1?

i have a beetle and i want to checkup on something

and for the f1 i am just curios about how it fits together
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Post  bnitram Wed May 20, 2015 7:10 am

Hello robot797,
i also have a beetle and the manual. I also have created an extra topic for the car:
https://www.coxengineforum.com/t5677-kyosho-049-cox-vw-beetle-mini-cooper

If you send me a PN with your email adress, i can send you the manual.

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Post  OVERLORD Wed May 20, 2015 1:34 pm

I recently found on the net this article about the GTP NISSAN. It was published in a French magazine in May 1990. There are many detailed pictures.

http://www.retromodelisme.com/scan_pages/7160/049-gtp-nissan-cox-page-58.html

RC Cars Cox 0.49 (Cox Stocker Kyosho f1,beetle) Killer Bee Backplate New Video! - Page 9 Gtp_ni10

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Post  jays Sun Aug 27, 2017 1:21 pm

I also own a kyosho espo larousse and cant get the thing to work well the motor to spin. I've tried everything i could think of and still no success. How did you figure out or quite simply get it to run?
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Post  Marleysky Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:23 pm

jays wrote:I also own a kyosho espo larousse and cant get the thing to work well the motor to spin. I've tried everything i could think of and still no success. How did you figure out or quite simply get it to run?

If I interpret what you are saying " can't get the thing to work well the motor to spin"
To mean you can't get the motor to turn over? Like it is stuck, tight, due to old age and old castor oil and dirty?  Or, do you mean you have followed the instructions from the first page of this post and have disassembled, cleaned and reassembled the engine, it turns over with a pop of compression, you have the correct nitro/ castor oil fuel mixture and a tested good glow head, with a good battery and connections to the glow Head?
This forum is full of members who want to and will help you get your car running properly!
If you have already disassembled and cleaned the internal parts of the engine, the needle valve and reed assembly, cleaned or replaced the fuel pickup tube. You may have air leaks and need a new Venturi gasket or tank gasket.  Please tell us a Little more about what you have and what you have done, and we can help point you in the right direction to get the motor running!
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Post  Madguns Thu May 31, 2018 10:16 pm

What is a good price for a used Kyosho F1 049 car?
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